Zerodrag

iTrader: (5)

Going back to the refinishing of your HREs, I've always loved the design of the old Epsilon mesh wheels; the polished face with black windows. Wonder how that would look on the HRE?

Something like this...
http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...zMy5qcGc=/?ref=

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I've seen it done on Leon Hardiritt bugels, which are also a mesh style wheel.

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

No problem, I hope it helps. The hidden cost is no joke. It's an additional $523 from my local dealer + the cost of KW. The only good news is that KW's prices went down compared to when I was shopping in 2016 before I had the HKS coils rebuilt.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

My friend sent me some footage from his dash cam last night.




The part where I barely slow down for the railroad tracks is my favorite part because my car keeps on going like nothing is wrong.

RudysSC

Gotta love that big white booty

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I snapped a stud last weekend, so now I have 1 useless project kics wheel lock and a broken arp stud. When I installed the lug nut, I noticed a little bit of resistance when I got about half way. When I unthreaded it everything looked line, so I installed it. I should have ran a tap through the lug nut and the stud to make sure.

I'm not sure if I'll run project kics again in the future. The neochrome fades and the insides rust.




My ARP studs arrived today. I had to order a pack since they don't sell singles. The part number is ARP 100-7715 for anyone that is interested. They were in the freezer before I took this picture.


All my refinishing projects are on hold until I have some more free time.

After talking to more people about powder coating, I was told that the powder won't level out as much as I would like without sanding the surface smooth first. To save my hands, I ordered a die grinder and some 3m roloc bristle brushes. The green brush is equivalent to 50 grit, yellow (not pictured) = 80 grit, white = 120 grit.


Quick test until my compressor ran out of air. It works very well, but makes a huge mess. Only the two front halves of the front calipers have to be sanded smooth. Everything else is already smooth to begin with. The green brush is only recommended to be used on iron part of the calipers.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Powder is supposed to be more durable when the wheels make contact. The main reason I was considering it was because I didn't want to do anymore prep work. Now that I have to do the prep anyways I'm going to paint them (and I'm not sure if I can return all that VHT paint).

I also considered buying a powdercoating gun and oven from eastwood, but I already have enough tools as is and not enough storage space.

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Car looks amazing! This tread makes me want to make a bunch of similar changes to my car but im too broke to do them at the moment
I do have a quick question about the paint coating that you used in one of your earlier posts. Im wondering how its holding up after 2 years and if you had to redo it at all. Ive read that those chemical coatings are great when they work but a pain in the *** when you have to redo the coating. Just wondering how your experience is with it because thats something im considering doing as well.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I think I answered most of your questions in the post below:

Most of the damage I have is from mounting wheels that didn't clear the brakes.





I haven't tried removing the coating yet, so I don't know what it's like to take it off. If I knew that I would like their shade of yellow, I would have gone that route.

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Reading back my post i realized that i made a mistake. By paint coat i meant the Gtechniq CSL and EXO coating that you applied on your paint which also has hydrophobic qualities a few years ago. Looking back through your thread it was post #48 on page 4. Thats the coat i was talking about when i asked how its holding up after 2 years and if you had to redo it at all. Sorry about the mixup

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Gotcha, I normally don't get asked about that in my build thread, so it didn't occur to me you were asking about that. The product is still holding up great after 15 months. CSL is supposed to last 3-5 years and I think 1 year for exo. The hydrophobic characteristics of the EXO started to diminish around the 1 year mark, but that can easily be rejuvenated by applying a product like Carpro Hydro2. I haven't had to reapply the coating, so I have no experience with removing it. I believe the consumer grade products can be polished off, but the professional grade products might be different. 97-SC300 would know more about that since he's more experienced.


If you want an idea of what's involved in the process, you can take a look at the thread I made for my Gyeon Mohs install. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...n-q2-mohs.html

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the quick reply. I looked into it and youre right, the consumer version can be polished off which is good news if it lasts 3-5 years.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

- KW V3:
I'm very excited to try these. I decided to document the unboxing during my inspection of the coilovers.



















A few years ago I asked "mikef" which top hats he used for his KW suspension, and luckily I still had the message saved. He told me he used the KYB SM5564 top hat in the front and oem SC300 rears.


I was able to confirm that the front kyb top hats will fit:


I also confirmed that the rear stock top hats will fit too.


The technical specs (that I had a hard time finding online):
Front shock:
Damper shaft (threaded) - 11.88mm
Damper shaft (Smooth) - 22mm
KW Purple top hat (ID) - 81.80mm
KYB top hat (OD) - 80.22mm (over the rubber)

Rear shock:
Damper shaft (threaded) - 11.88mm
Damper shaft (Smooth) - 22mm
KW Purple top hat (ID) - 86.62mm
Stock SC top hat (OD) - 86.09mm (metal ring)

I'm a little concerned that without rubber in the rear it'll make noise, but for now it looks promising. If there end up being issues, then I'll buy the top hats new from Toyota.