My indecisive 98 SC300 build
08-18-16, 12:04 AM
#31
My SC left me stranded for the first time today, but at least it died in front of the dealership I was going to. 
I was driving and the throttle stopped working all of a sudden, so it felt like all power just shut off immediately. The CEL turned on after the car went into limp mode. The car was so weak that it didn't have enough power to get up a driveway entrance, so I got stuck. After turning off the car and starting it back up, I was able to drive into the parking lot. I went inside to buy a new battery for my daily driver, then I drove to my friend's shop about half a mile away to scan the codes. It had 2 codes P1121 (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and B2796.(something to do with the immobilizer system. I ordered a new APPS sensor (Part number 22060-46010) and had the car towed home. I won't have the part for a few more days, but hopefully it fixes the problem.
I was driving and the throttle stopped working all of a sudden, so it felt like all power just shut off immediately. The CEL turned on after the car went into limp mode. The car was so weak that it didn't have enough power to get up a driveway entrance, so I got stuck. After turning off the car and starting it back up, I was able to drive into the parking lot. I went inside to buy a new battery for my daily driver, then I drove to my friend's shop about half a mile away to scan the codes. It had 2 codes P1121 (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and B2796.(something to do with the immobilizer system. I ordered a new APPS sensor (Part number 22060-46010) and had the car towed home. I won't have the part for a few more days, but hopefully it fixes the problem.
08-31-16, 07:30 PM
#32
While researching my P1121 problem, I came across a few interesting links.
A powerpoint on how the ETCS-i system works: http://media.lexus.ca/internal_redir...w_it_works.pdf
Some instructions on diagnosing codes P1120 & P1121 and instructions to replace the APPS: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post7451039
A potential fix for the sensor by cartmill: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-sensor.html
Here are the part numbers for the 3 potential problems:
89672-30020 - Throttle Control Motor
22060-46010 - Throttle Lever Assembly (APPS Sensor)
89452-30150 - Throttle Position Sensor
A powerpoint on how the ETCS-i system works: http://media.lexus.ca/internal_redir...w_it_works.pdf
Some instructions on diagnosing codes P1120 & P1121 and instructions to replace the APPS: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post7451039
A potential fix for the sensor by cartmill: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-sensor.html
Here are the part numbers for the 3 potential problems:
89672-30020 - Throttle Control Motor
22060-46010 - Throttle Lever Assembly (APPS Sensor)
89452-30150 - Throttle Position Sensor
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:20 PM.
09-16-16, 01:16 PM
#33
Stopped by Lexus of Westminster to try and order a replacement APPS connector, but they weren't able to help me find it.
Thanks to Luxor for providing me with the part number, I was able to pick up the connector.
90980–11150
I decided to shave my fenders a little more to see if I can run less camber to clear my rear fenders.
The driver side is still a tight fit.
The passenger side however, keeps on getting stuck on the tire. I think its because of the little tub above the fender lip. Now I understand why all the other SC's on air pull the rear when they go 11" or wider.
I'm in the market for a new set of coilovers. I'm ready to play with something new.
Thanks to Luxor for providing me with the part number, I was able to pick up the connector.
90980–11150
I decided to shave my fenders a little more to see if I can run less camber to clear my rear fenders.
The driver side is still a tight fit.
The passenger side however, keeps on getting stuck on the tire. I think its because of the little tub above the fender lip. Now I understand why all the other SC's on air pull the rear when they go 11" or wider.
I'm in the market for a new set of coilovers. I'm ready to play with something new.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:25 PM.
11-10-16, 08:59 PM
#34
Finally had some time to start pulling the air suspension out of the car tonight. I was starting to get worried my HKS coils are blown, but after taking things a part tonight the shocks are still pressurized, so I'm going to run them as normal coilovers for the time being. I'll decide if I want to send them out to get revalved or just buy new coilovers after I see how the car drives.
One of the coilovers slipped out of my hand and hit the door. It left behind 2 dents and 1 deep scratch.
One of the coilovers slipped out of my hand and hit the door. It left behind 2 dents and 1 deep scratch.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:28 PM.
11-12-16, 02:24 PM
#35
Lesson learned: Do not impact the center nut on a coilover in reverse
Looks like I'll be reaching out to a few companies to see if they can get me a new valve/shaft and possibly get me new swift springs.
Looks like I'll be reaching out to a few companies to see if they can get me a new valve/shaft and possibly get me new swift springs.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:29 PM.
11-13-16, 01:24 PM
#37
I plan to eventually bring it up there, so I can do an up to date photoshoot of these two projects. The black SC belongs to my friend, but everything that is done to the white SC was based off of experience from building the black SC. I basically practiced everything I needed to know on the black car, so I wouldn't mess up the white car. hahaha
IMG_9115 by blackexcoupe, on Flickr
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TitanG545 (07-07-20)
11-14-16, 10:27 PM
#39
Thank you. It took a long time to get all the parts I wanted.
I worked on the car tonight. I installed the stock suspension in the front, so I could take it off of jack stands and park it in the driveway while I work on a different car. I thought it looked funny, so I took a picture. The center portion of the bumper to the ground measures about 9.5"
I also took a part my HKS coils to inspect it and see what caused the failure. It looks like all my troubles were caused by the washer that goes between bump stop and the top hat. The lower portion of the shaft measures about 12.5mm and the upper portion of the shaft measures roughly 12mm. The washer's job is to keep the shock shaft from going completely through the top hat.
The parts:
The washer is ovaled out. This is mostly my fault since I mangled the washer while trying to remove it.
Since the washer was ovaled it started slipping down the shaft and did a lot of scaring to the shaft.
Once the washer started slipping, then I started hearing a knocking sound while test driving the car. Once I popped the hood I saw that the top nut was loose, so I tried to tighten it some more which mushroomed the head causing it to get stuck.
Once the center nut was stuck, and I impacted the center nut in reverse it unthreaded the shaft from the piston inside of the shock causing it to bleed to death (picture in my post above)
It looks like I'll be needing a new shaft, washer, and center nut. I'll be sending the parts out tomorrow. The shop said they can't promise me anything until they inspect it and do measurements. They're hopeful they can locate or make a new shaft for me.
I worked on the car tonight. I installed the stock suspension in the front, so I could take it off of jack stands and park it in the driveway while I work on a different car. I thought it looked funny, so I took a picture. The center portion of the bumper to the ground measures about 9.5"
I also took a part my HKS coils to inspect it and see what caused the failure. It looks like all my troubles were caused by the washer that goes between bump stop and the top hat. The lower portion of the shaft measures about 12.5mm and the upper portion of the shaft measures roughly 12mm. The washer's job is to keep the shock shaft from going completely through the top hat.
The parts:
The washer is ovaled out. This is mostly my fault since I mangled the washer while trying to remove it.
Since the washer was ovaled it started slipping down the shaft and did a lot of scaring to the shaft.
Once the washer started slipping, then I started hearing a knocking sound while test driving the car. Once I popped the hood I saw that the top nut was loose, so I tried to tighten it some more which mushroomed the head causing it to get stuck.
Once the center nut was stuck, and I impacted the center nut in reverse it unthreaded the shaft from the piston inside of the shock causing it to bleed to death (picture in my post above)
It looks like I'll be needing a new shaft, washer, and center nut. I'll be sending the parts out tomorrow. The shop said they can't promise me anything until they inspect it and do measurements. They're hopeful they can locate or make a new shaft for me.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:33 PM.
11-16-16, 02:48 PM
#40
I don't know how many SC owners will care, but my first paint coating has arrived.
Paint coatings are the latest in paint protection technology. Below is a video from one of my friend's drying off his s2000.
Paint coatings are the latest in paint protection technology. Below is a video from one of my friend's drying off his s2000.
Washed my car today and I remembered this thread so I took a video. Sorry if the video is shaky. I had a large blower on one hand and my phone on the other.
I'm really liking the Gtechniq Serum + Exo coating. It makes water shoot off like no other. Tried the leaf blower on my brother's car (coated with CQuartz and topped with Hydro2) and had no problem getting water off either, although not as quickly.
I used a single waffle weave towel to pick up any remaining water spots. After "drying" both cars, the towel doesn't even feel damp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWbMMzvf6Mk
I'm really liking the Gtechniq Serum + Exo coating. It makes water shoot off like no other. Tried the leaf blower on my brother's car (coated with CQuartz and topped with Hydro2) and had no problem getting water off either, although not as quickly.
I used a single waffle weave towel to pick up any remaining water spots. After "drying" both cars, the towel doesn't even feel damp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWbMMzvf6Mk
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 06-30-17 at 10:15 PM.
11-16-16, 07:56 PM
#41
We tested it at work against about 8 other coatings ranging from CQ Finest, OC Pro, and 22PLE HPC and so far it's holding up great after several months of use and abuse.
If you haven't already, get some Carpro Hydr02 as a maintenance sealant every couple of months, amazing stuff on any surface of the car and probably the easiest and quickest way to seal wheels, glass, paint, etc. It's spray on, rinse off. Completely touchless, takes like 3 minutes to do a full car.
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TitanG545 (07-07-20)
11-16-16, 08:21 PM
#42
You're going to like that coating!
We tested it at work against about 8 other coatings ranging from CQ Finest, OC Pro, and 22PLE HPC and so far it's holding up great after several months of use and abuse.
If you haven't already, get some Carpro Hydr02 as a maintenance sealant every couple of months, amazing stuff on any surface of the car and probably the easiest and quickest way to seal wheels, glass, paint, etc. It's spray on, rinse off. Completely touchless, takes like 3 minutes to do a full car.
We tested it at work against about 8 other coatings ranging from CQ Finest, OC Pro, and 22PLE HPC and so far it's holding up great after several months of use and abuse.
If you haven't already, get some Carpro Hydr02 as a maintenance sealant every couple of months, amazing stuff on any surface of the car and probably the easiest and quickest way to seal wheels, glass, paint, etc. It's spray on, rinse off. Completely touchless, takes like 3 minutes to do a full car.
I have a sample of Hydro2 I got from the same friend. I've been using Nanolex wash coat which works very similar to the Hydro2. I've been very happy with Nanolex because I can just shoot it on the car through foam and rinse off.
11-19-16, 10:44 PM
#43
Washed my cars yesterday evening.
UPS came and dropped off my coilovers today. I wasn't expecting to get them back until Monday or Tuesday.
The shocks now have completely different valve adjusters. I instructed them to do an inspection and replace everything they felt was necessary to minimize my down time. The last thing I wanted was to have a hold up while someone had to contact me for approval at every step. Once the other shock was taken a part they noticed some scarring on the passenger side too. Below is a picture of my old shock shafts that I asked to be shipped back to me (they'll make great punches). I was told that this type of damage is common with cars that are on air bags or air cups.
The shock is basically brand new now. It was brand new shafts, new seals, new shock oil (i think amsoil), new nitrogen, new bump stops, new washers, new dust boots, and new adjusting dials. I regret not inquiring about having the shock mount bushing changed out to a newer polyurethane bushing.
I had also inquired about having the spring rates changed to 12kg swift springs (currently 14k) and having them revalved accordingly, but they advised against my plan. They said 12k would be too soft for the SC, and if I wanted to improve comfort, then we could explore revalving options using the original 14kg springs. I decided against any revalving option because I was starting to get into the price where I should be considering brand new coilovers.
UPS came and dropped off my coilovers today. I wasn't expecting to get them back until Monday or Tuesday.
The shocks now have completely different valve adjusters. I instructed them to do an inspection and replace everything they felt was necessary to minimize my down time. The last thing I wanted was to have a hold up while someone had to contact me for approval at every step. Once the other shock was taken a part they noticed some scarring on the passenger side too. Below is a picture of my old shock shafts that I asked to be shipped back to me (they'll make great punches). I was told that this type of damage is common with cars that are on air bags or air cups.
The shock is basically brand new now. It was brand new shafts, new seals, new shock oil (i think amsoil), new nitrogen, new bump stops, new washers, new dust boots, and new adjusting dials. I regret not inquiring about having the shock mount bushing changed out to a newer polyurethane bushing.
I had also inquired about having the spring rates changed to 12kg swift springs (currently 14k) and having them revalved accordingly, but they advised against my plan. They said 12k would be too soft for the SC, and if I wanted to improve comfort, then we could explore revalving options using the original 14kg springs. I decided against any revalving option because I was starting to get into the price where I should be considering brand new coilovers.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:36 PM.
12-03-16, 09:36 PM
#44
I installed the front coils last week, and I got the car aligned.
I had them change the specs and align the car with less camber since I won't be running air anymore, so I don't have to worry about lip clearance. The fronts went from -2.1 to -1.4 and the rears had -3.3 down to -2.2
After driving the car for a few days I started noticing a knocking sound coming from the rears, so I'll be pulling the rear coilovers and sending them in for the same service the front coils got.
I took one of the old shafts a part to see what was inside since I've never seen it before. The way it works is the adjuster **** basically just screws the rod up and down to allow fluid to move through the shaft and out of the holes drilled into the shaft.
Parts from left to right (inside of the shock)
1. Set screw with opening for fluid to move through
2. Spacer
3. Tapered spacer with orifice for fluid to move through
4. Tapered rod with o ring that controls how much fluid moves through
5. Solid rod
Parts from left to right (visible part of the shaft under dust boot)
5. Solid rod
6. Adjuster screw
7. Set screw with hole for adjuster
I had them change the specs and align the car with less camber since I won't be running air anymore, so I don't have to worry about lip clearance. The fronts went from -2.1 to -1.4 and the rears had -3.3 down to -2.2
After driving the car for a few days I started noticing a knocking sound coming from the rears, so I'll be pulling the rear coilovers and sending them in for the same service the front coils got.
I took one of the old shafts a part to see what was inside since I've never seen it before. The way it works is the adjuster **** basically just screws the rod up and down to allow fluid to move through the shaft and out of the holes drilled into the shaft.
Parts from left to right (inside of the shock)
1. Set screw with opening for fluid to move through
2. Spacer
3. Tapered spacer with orifice for fluid to move through
4. Tapered rod with o ring that controls how much fluid moves through
5. Solid rod
Parts from left to right (visible part of the shaft under dust boot)
5. Solid rod
6. Adjuster screw
7. Set screw with hole for adjuster
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 01-18-20 at 11:39 PM.
12-03-16, 10:54 PM
#45
Awesome updates! If I ever get my cars exterior to where I want it and painted again, definitely going to do a paint coating. A previous customer of mine had Modesta done, the car looked perfect all the time and water rolled right off. Great pics of the shock shaft disassembly, cool to see that broken down. Id love to see the car sometime, I just got transferred to HB for work drive on Beach daily.