Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, they were inspired by Kohinoor's "Hoebag" tail lights with a few more added details.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (5)

Regarding the keyhole on lens issue disassembly... I used to use a hacksaw blade by sliding it in the opened section on other lenses that had that type of mid-piece. May work for the SC lens, but not sure if there is enough flat angle in the opening. On reassembly, I would just use clear silicon over the area to seal up the missing material I sawed through.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

It would be tough, but I think it would be doable. There is no need for me to go through all that trouble though. I know how to work around it for future tail lights. I read it in an old post by Kohinoor and OG status was nice enough to tell me how they work around the keyhole.



The work around is to cut the bar next to the keyhole.


After the bar is cut, then there are 4 tabs to keep the reverse lens in place. There is enough room to wiggle the reverse lens out and allow the entire trim to be removed with the keyhole untouched


I washed my car today and it's safe to say the silicone I used for a makeshift keyring isn't working.


The moisture just looks like cloud reflections lol


Also, those expensive LED reverse bulbs aren't necessary. They look great, but the light is only usable if there is something right behind my car to reflect against (like the garage door in my previous pictures).

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

As I recall, my first reman'd R&P showed up similarly beat up. They package them so poorly, it was actually broken in the box. The second one appeared okay, despite the box holding on for dear life, but it was leaking shortly after installation and had to be re-replaced. Quality control and shipping care is seriously lacking on those.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Hopefully mine won't have any issues. I might hold on to my oem rack and not send in the core as a contingency plan. If this rack fails me, then I'll try to find a local shop rebuild my original rack with all OEM parts.

houndofFOX

Any more information on this? I'd definitely be interested in ordering a set.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

He brought it up in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ml#post9931564

I didn't follow up because I wasn't sure if anyone else would be willing to pay $100 for 2 pieces of plastic.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

My car finally hit 190k miles yesterday.

Clutch pedal came in earlier this week. I heard the bracket got discontinued. With all these parts slowly getting discontinued, I couldn't risk not being able to locate it in the future. I only heard this, I never verified it.


I was cleaning out my garage yesterday, and I have these old headlight housings leftover from my original tsx retrofit. I was bored and decided to try a new color scheme since I already had all the paint. Housings are gloss black, the side lens is tinted orange, and the marker light is smoked (not painted black)


It was extra ugly behind the stock lens, so I tried it behind some super made lenses. It looks better than stock lenses, but these lights won't be going anywhere near my car.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Washed the car on Friday, and I was looking at my wheel/brake combo to figure out if I can fit the brembo srt-8 brakes on my car without swapping wheels. The supra TT calipers I have are close to the edge of the face. The additional 1.5" rotor + brake calipers makes me think the bolts from my wheels will hit the new calipers. If my setup was a 18" reverse lip instead of an 18" step lip it should work.




Some more shots of the tail lights:




Washing this car is always satisfying.




I got some new rear speakers to have some filler sound. I bought some cheap pioneers and these pvc speaker adapters on ebay. They're suppose to fit in the SC. Anyone ever use these adapters before? Do they work or did I just waste my money?


I'm waiting on RCA cables before I gut my car and run more wiring. My original audio setup was components in the front with a sub in the trunk. It worked great until something stabbed my sub. Afterwards I switched to a small 10" kicker in the rear deck which overpowers my components, so I'm adding these speakers in for filler sound. The speakers were cheaper than the adapters, but they should still improve my situation.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

They will work fine. I used them in my sons 99.

Shane

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

You can bolt 6.5" Pioneers directly to the deck cutouts, no adapters required.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

That's good to know. Thanks guys!

jimmymac30

iTrader: (8)

i have 6.5" kicker CS in the deck lid. The went right in without any brackets.

I will be doing my rear srt8 brembos tomorrow and I will measure them for you to determine if they will fit. Not sure how much bigger my z06 front brakes are than the srt8 fronts but I'll measure those for you too. I can tell you that they are quite a bit larger than the LS400 brakes I had for sure but still cleared my 18" work s2r's. Barely.

Love your car. It's an inspiration. Seeing the front without the lip makes me want to remove mine. So clean.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The srt-8 caliper is supposed to be a little bit bulkier than the z06. The CTS-V calipers are a bit more compact and friendly for wheel clearance. I've seen the CTS-V calipers clear a set of 18" weld wheels which also have a step lip, but the brackets are pretty pricey for that setup. If you could get the measurements of the total width at the widest point or from the center of the rotor to the widest point, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the compliment. That's funny because when I look at your car it makes me want to get a front lip. I guess the grass is always greener on the other side.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I had a chance to install the speakers this evening. These speaker pods work, but they have to be redrilled. I had to widen the holes to get them to fit. Even if the holes were drilled properly, they didn't design the bracket to have enough clearance for a socket.

I widened the hole (a lot bigger than this in the end) and I used the drill bit to cut back at the top, so a socket could clear. This picture was my 1st attempt. In the end I used a 3/8" drill bit and ovaled everything out.


While everything was out, I decided to put all the wiring for the air suspension back in. I run the power wire and air line through the wiring harness loom in the fenders.


The air line is routed behind the fender liner and brake lines to avoid any clearance issues with the wheel


The lines run through the interior to keep them from getting hit by any road debris. This is 2 - 4 gauge power wires, 12 gauge speaker wire, 1 remote wire, 1 ignition wire, and 1/4" air line being routed on the driver side of the car.


In the process I broke the rear parcel shelf (it basically crumbled in my hands when I removed it). A lot of the rear panels were very brittle since they've never been removed or replaced. My rear upper seats ripped at the seams today when I removed it. I also scratched up my rear tint from repeatedly test fitting the speakers. Overall, I did a lot of minor damage to the car by installing these rear speakers.

The worse part of today is that my driver front speaker (i didn't even touch it) is now whining. I remembered to test everything to make sure it worked before zip tying all the wires and assembling the car, but I must have been too rough with the wiring and broke an old connection.