Well more drama with the header issue...

PPE was kind enough to send me a new extension harness for bank #2.
Was sent out Wednesday so I was suppose to receive it Friday.
No show ;(
Saturday still no show at 2pm so I decided to take out old one and see what it looked like and if I can “fix” it.

Boy that harness is no fun to get out. The top plug is cramped in between the motor and fire wall
with about 3” of access space. Tried getting it from below but it was too far up, couldn’t get my fingers far enough to undo the clip. Finally ended up having one person up top with a long angled pick to release the clip and a person under the car to pull wire out.
what I found was pretty surprising. There were 4 wires total in the harness. 3 of the 4 were melted to each other. The forth one was melted into the aluminum heat shielding that came wrapped around the wires.
No wonder I was getting codes for high voltage and low voltage maxing out...

Stupid usps never delivered my package Saturday so I decided to “fix” the wires and see if I can make it work. No time this week to work on car and going to Barber for track next weekend.

I separated all the melted wires and isolated them with electrical tape. Then I wrapped them in header wrap. Then I sorta rigged up the original aluminum heat sheild around the outside. Asian engineering ;0

Reinstallation of the harness was even more difficult since now I have to push a floppy wire harness upwards like 3 feet into a clip. Took some ingenuity but it finally happened.
So far no codes!!!

Got my oil sample back today.
Amsoil 5w30 (the test sheet says 0w30 but it’s 5w30)
Been in the car 4300 miles with 5 or 6 single track days.
According to Daniel Mackey, the test is right on except silica is a tad high.
Been using almost shell 93 exclusively with a few tanks of chevron 93 mixed in.
I changed the oil filter only (oem Toyota) when I took this sample, so I guess I’ll track it another 5-6 times then test again.
If I can change this Amsoil only once a year (approx 8k miles) with 7-8 track days, I will be ecstatic!!

Excited. Getting new track tires today before heading to Barber Motorsports Park tomorrow.
275/35/19 front
285/30/19 rear
i was running square but hoping to get a tad more contact patch in the back so I went slightly wide.
Rear end likes to poke out when the traction control is off. A small stagger will help reduce oversteer the way I have car set up.

steve,
For daily use, Mobil 1 is just fine imo.
I just wanted the best protection possible for Track wear and tear and willing to pay more to know I’m using the absolute best oil possible.
The cost of Amsoil is considerably more than Mobil 1. Probably overkill for street use.

Got back from Barber yesterday. 91 degrees all day on track. No codes so my Chinese engineering worked! The sensor extension repair held up perfectly.

The new cup2 tires were amazing.
The road feel is leaps and bounds better than the Yokohama AD08R I was running before. Grip is slightly better and the side wall is where cup2 excelled. Plus they never got greasy even towards end of day.
Just an FYI if anyone is considering cup2 for daily use, the road noise is considerably more than PSS.

Thanks! For your dedication in checking which oil is better. Just out of curiosity, were you able to weigh your 285/35/19 Cup2? When I changed my 295/30/20 PSS to 305/30/20 Cup2 no more slipping but felt slower. I’m guessing it’s just too wide and circumference was way bigger.

^^^
Fahd, yes the bigger tires does make the car feel slower; obviously more rotational mass to get moving. It doesn’t bother me as much since I’m on track and rolling already. If you’re red light racing then it’s different.
To me, the size of tire up front effects much more so than in the rear as it slows steering input.

If you really want to know the tire weight, michelin’s Website has a pdf of each tire and the weight/specs of production sizes.
Sorry I didn’t weight em.

Thanks! I downloaded 3 PDFs when mentioned it last time. PSS, PS4S, Cup 2...

Christmas in June, wooo!
My 3rd mid-pipe showed up. PPE H-pipe with high flow cats and resonators.
First let me say the guys at PPE are pleasant to work with.
The quality of the pipes and welds were top notch.
One hiccup was that I requested them to include new crush gaskets but none was sent..
Installed with one issue. The right side pipe still had clearance issues and was rubbing on the oe middle chassis brace’s bolt.
Had to grind the bolt head down half way to gain the 1/8” clearance needed. Sigh...
was hoping the PPE one would fit better. That’s the kind of issues I had with the previous ARH one.
Good thing is it’s all fixed now. No more grinding noises.

My feed back on PPE mid pipe:
1. The low to mid range torque definitely is better than the ARH one.
I contribute that to the back pressure/pipe size difference.
PPE is 2.5”. ARH was 3” all the way, hence the clearance issues.

2. The PPE one has a much lower tone, more muscle car like; due to H configuration I’m guessing.
I actually liked the ARH one better... It sounds more exotic, with a higher pitch tone.

3. The sound volume definitely is lower now due to having cats vs no cats on ARH one.
Oh well. It’s a more “mature” sound. Haha.

Quick feed back on the cup 2 front fitment.
The fronts are 275/35/19
I knew that’s a bit taller than optimal but cup2 only came in 35 series in 275 width.
Previously I’ve ran 275/30 on track with minimal scrubbing only on high compression sharp turns.
But now the 35’s scrub pretty bad. I even tried raising the car by 5/8” in the front but still no go.
Think my high neg camber of 2.8 degrees just won’t clear. For others without UCA and at like 1.5 camber, it may or may not clear. FWIW.

So for others who want to run cup2, use 30 series only in 255 or 265 to be safe.
FYi. Good day.