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The car was lowered when I got it, not sure what springs but my car feels stiffer than the others I drove. The rest is stock aside from an f-sport rear sway bar and aftermarket arms in the back to correct camber from being lowered.
Do you have the torque app? You should log your maf values and see what your 0-60, 40-60, and 60-80 times are.
The last time I pulled MAF data I saw something interesting in that going through the gears 1 - 3 the MAF values bumped about 2.5 g/m^2 (g/m^2 looks wrong) from 1st to 2nd to 3rd which kind of makes sense as it's holding each gear longer.
Anway, maf was 238 in 3rd with a max of 242 off the rev limiter if that helps.
-sigh- poor little 350.... 2 years 7 months and 39,000 miles covered! That's 15k +++ miles per year.
I missed the 90,000 mile photo shot but you get the idea. Zero issues in 39,000 miles I've had it! I'm good with that!
Title: I call her Chippy now as the nose has an abundance of rock chips.
You're certainly racking up on mileage (especially for a 2013 MY) and at this rate, you'll be hitting the 100k milestone during this 2020 year!
For reference, my daily driven 2007 IS350 just hit the 100k milestone a few months back and my annual mileage equates to almost half of what you're averaging per year (7,700 miles vs 14,444 miles).
I had my front bumper and hood repainted to fix all of the rock chips in mine. Now I only have chipping problems on the side skirts.
Ya, I see that in her future. It's almost like the clear coat has been sandblasted too. Traffic is just too dense here and no escaping the blast by driving with balloon around here.
Originally Posted by redspencer
Sounds like Chippy needs a nose job. LOL.
You're certainly racking up on mileage (especially for a 2013 MY) and at this rate, you'll be hitting the 100k milestone during this 2020 year!
For reference, my daily driven 2007 IS350 just hit the 100k milestone a few months back and my annual mileage equates to almost half of what you're averaging per year (7,700 miles vs 14,444 miles).
Damn, now that is sounding almost mean! lol
Ya, poor thing. Hopefully in the summer I'll ride the sport bike more and find an alternate vehicle. Looking for Yoda truck but dang they are expensive too!
FAIL - I didn't even do the math right. That's closer to 15,100 miles per year. Historically averaged 16 to 17k mi year. Still, rackin them up pretty damn quick! I fill up weekly with the trip meter clocking 300 mi., working 50 weeks per year, thats 15K right there! I need to work from home more often!!!!
Roughly a year ago a road trip logged 1,400 miles in 9 days or something like that. It was fun trip! Post #45 here
Last edited by 2013FSport; 01-25-20 at 01:12 PM.
Reason: Typos; extra zeros... lol
I tossed in the IS-F EPS ECU. Took about 20 min. The connector is charmer, pop the black lock up, squeeze the connector from the backside pulling it it up to release what seems like a secondary catch and walla, the connector de-latches pushing it self away. All you need is a large pick tool. Do the one on the right first (power cable). Then the simple squeeze one, then the forward most connector on the side.
The hardest part was getting those stupid battery cable tie downs free on the outside of the battery, But after being mean to them, they got TF over it! lol And still latch!
I only did a short drive and can say that low speeds require more input at the wheel (higher resistance), but otherwise feels the same through the corners and straights. It will after 45,000 miles take some getting used to as it is not the way it was whereby muscle memory drives the vehicle effortlessly. I'll get it on the freeway tomorrow and maybe this weekend the canyons where VDIM can show its true colors. One observation is the IS-F EPS unit does allow more wheel slip than the F-Sport unit should it be pushed through the corners and body lean lifts a tire. The same can be said for the launch.
Out 89650-53082 F-Sport EPS ECU 2013 In 89650-53041 IS-F EPS ECU 2011
A quick pic of the moisture proof locking connectors.
That little black tab pops up to about 4mm. Do not rip it out completely. To open and release, lift up in the center from the wire side. Doing this will activate a cam the pushes two of the connectors about 45% free of completely decoupled.
That's about it. Seat it, push it down to secure it push the little black tab back in.
One little thing, a FWIW if you will. After battery install I had no green start button upon brake pedal depression. It did power up to accessory mode when off the brake, and then upon brake pedal press again, the light came on and it did the usual, start and die, start and run routine.
Oddly, no high idle or anything like that and I didn't have reset the windows, just the radio presets.
Tools: 10 mm end wrench 10 mm socket and long long extension. 10 to 12". Phillips screw driver Razor blade Large pick tool for the battery cables and EPS connectors. Also, I cleaned the terminals with MAF cleaner as there was some debris in there from PO.
The F-Sport logo does add some nice flair to the sway bars
Buying the parts is always fun but making the time to install the parts is another matter. With all of the great upgrades you're installing on Chippy, it will be a long-term member of your garage at this rate.
In addition to the upgrades you already have waiting to be installed, I definitely recommend supplementing your sway bars with some lower front and rear chassis braces which will also add more to the smiles per gallon.
01-20-20, 09:35 AM
Chippy hits 90,000 miles
Chippy in the Redwoods
lol
With all of the great upgrades you're installing on Chippy, it will be a long-term member of your garage at this rate.
