FSport's IS-350 running list of service & maintenance DIY
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AMIRZA786 (08-27-21)
#317
No Help from the Tundra crowd
See title, but I'm not seeing much love from the forums for the 11+ year old truck. So here's the deal, I want the CF18 relay flasher in my #2010 #Tundra so I can add the one tap programmable flasher to the Tundra (HINT HINT #Diode Dynamics). Why am I writing? Yoda decided to manage the truck line differently and make the relay able to handle more current by integrating front and rear relays into a single package like #81980-0C010 or #81980-0C020 (81980-0C020 no DRL) 819800C020.
Details:
The common CF18 unit like our 2IS uses 8 pins (10 actual pins) while the Toyota only truck proprietary relay uses an 18 pin (10 usable pins) relay with the front and rear divided by separate mechanical relays for each end of the vehicle. This makes sense for the added loads of trailer lights and what not which I have as mine is tow package equipped. But the OEM setup does not allow for easy addition of LED lighting without inducing hyper flash. This may be a solution to that problem.
All of that said, the community has not done well as best I've read and some have done some crazy hacks to their rigs to add basic hardware like LED lighting.
Here, I intend to add the Diode Dynamics One Tap CF18 module to a #2010 #Tundra. But, I'd like some input here.
CF18 Relay (IS350 and others):
CF18 Pin out:
#81980-0C020 Pin out as best I know it:
So, the plan is to make an adapter harness to fit the CF18 module into the hole where the #81980-0C020 w/out DRL was by doing this:
What I don't know is if the Tundra electrical system shares a common connection between the front and rear relays (I think not as it defeats the purpose) but the question is, will it hurt anything if I bond them?? I could in my adapter add a relay to extend the load which would reduce any failures upstream when/if towing and/or adding extra load to the system. At least make it as robust as it was. Can do...
If anyone looks into the 2IS implementation of this, the stalk signal goes to CAN BUS MPX but also arrives at the signal relay as analog. They also leave the Stalk and notify the wiper relay ECM and Body BCM of data for other uses but the bottom line is the data in and out of the relay appears to be analog so this hardware conversion should work.
Any thoughts?
And where is Jeff Lang @Jeff Lange ,he is the expert at reading this stuff and making sense of it. PS - I have more schematics of both systems if someone wants to see them.
Details:
The common CF18 unit like our 2IS uses 8 pins (10 actual pins) while the Toyota only truck proprietary relay uses an 18 pin (10 usable pins) relay with the front and rear divided by separate mechanical relays for each end of the vehicle. This makes sense for the added loads of trailer lights and what not which I have as mine is tow package equipped. But the OEM setup does not allow for easy addition of LED lighting without inducing hyper flash. This may be a solution to that problem.
All of that said, the community has not done well as best I've read and some have done some crazy hacks to their rigs to add basic hardware like LED lighting.
Here, I intend to add the Diode Dynamics One Tap CF18 module to a #2010 #Tundra. But, I'd like some input here.
CF18 Relay (IS350 and others):
CF18 Pin out:
#81980-0C020 Pin out as best I know it:
So, the plan is to make an adapter harness to fit the CF18 module into the hole where the #81980-0C020 w/out DRL was by doing this:
What I don't know is if the Tundra electrical system shares a common connection between the front and rear relays (I think not as it defeats the purpose) but the question is, will it hurt anything if I bond them?? I could in my adapter add a relay to extend the load which would reduce any failures upstream when/if towing and/or adding extra load to the system. At least make it as robust as it was. Can do...
If anyone looks into the 2IS implementation of this, the stalk signal goes to CAN BUS MPX but also arrives at the signal relay as analog. They also leave the Stalk and notify the wiper relay ECM and Body BCM of data for other uses but the bottom line is the data in and out of the relay appears to be analog so this hardware conversion should work.
Any thoughts?
And where is Jeff Lang @Jeff Lange ,he is the expert at reading this stuff and making sense of it. PS - I have more schematics of both systems if someone wants to see them.
Last edited by 2013FSport; 09-02-21 at 08:43 PM.
#318
Lexus Champion
This is unfortunately beyond my expertise as I am a Director of IT, but I can pass this on to my friend who is a EE. Is the diagram you posted above for the Tundra? If so he may be able to figure out what you are trying to accomplish referring to the correct wiring diagram
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2013FSport (09-03-21)
#319
This is unfortunately beyond my expertise as I am a Director of IT, but I can pass this on to my friend who is a EE. Is the diagram you posted above for the Tundra? If so he may be able to figure out what you are trying to accomplish referring to the correct wiring diagram
^^ Above info has both the 2IS and Tundra. The bare minimum for this post.
I think Im good. Just need to find some OEM connectors to make proper connections without doing some FUBAR hack to the OEM harness. I refuse to compromise reliability.
If you knew my edict for not walking, it's pretty high! lol - especially in motorcycle boots!
The following 2 users liked this post by Gville350:
2013FSport (09-03-21),
AMIRZA786 (09-03-21)
#321
New location is a single long driveway. That said, without constantly shuffling cars, the IS is subject to street parking on a gravel road.
We're gonna need to buy stock WIX filters for Cabin, Air, and Oil at this rate. I mean, I don't have time to wash and cover it before some @SSHAT blazes the trail at 35+ MPH kicking up a 15 minute dust plume.
Poor Chippy!
Let's not forget wiper blades and fluid. -sigh-
We're gonna need to buy stock WIX filters for Cabin, Air, and Oil at this rate. I mean, I don't have time to wash and cover it before some @SSHAT blazes the trail at 35+ MPH kicking up a 15 minute dust plume.
Poor Chippy!
Let's not forget wiper blades and fluid. -sigh-
The following users liked this post:
AMIRZA786 (09-08-21)
The following users liked this post:
2013FSport (09-08-21)
#323
Lexus Champion
New location is a single long driveway. That said, without constantly shuffling cars, the IS is subject to street parking on a gravel road.
We're gonna need to buy stock WIX filters for Cabin, Air, and Oil at this rate. I mean, I don't have time to wash and cover it before some @SSHAT blazes the trail at 35+ MPH kicking up a 15 minute dust plume.
Poor Chippy!
Let's not forget wiper blades and fluid. -sigh-
We're gonna need to buy stock WIX filters for Cabin, Air, and Oil at this rate. I mean, I don't have time to wash and cover it before some @SSHAT blazes the trail at 35+ MPH kicking up a 15 minute dust plume.
Poor Chippy!
Let's not forget wiper blades and fluid. -sigh-
The following users liked this post:
2013FSport (09-08-21)
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2013FSport (09-08-21)
#325
True statement there! ^^
Meanwhile scratched and beaten truck sits out of sight, out of harms way, on the pavement protected from everything! lol
As the weather comes, I'll swap places with truck, convince my SO the ping pong table needs to go away and put Chippy in the garage.
EDIT: apparently everything here looks bad, Chippy just looks worse. Last night's drizzle was a mix of fire ash and h20. The Tundra was not spared!
This was washed Sunday night and put away clean:
Meanwhile scratched and beaten truck sits out of sight, out of harms way, on the pavement protected from everything! lol
As the weather comes, I'll swap places with truck, convince my SO the ping pong table needs to go away and put Chippy in the garage.
EDIT: apparently everything here looks bad, Chippy just looks worse. Last night's drizzle was a mix of fire ash and h20. The Tundra was not spared!
This was washed Sunday night and put away clean:
Last edited by 2013FSport; 09-08-21 at 06:47 PM. Reason: Fire ash hit everything
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AMIRZA786 (09-08-21)
#326
Yesterday was round two of getting the Tundra caught up on maintenance with the installation of new sparkies whereby I'd like to throw the crack engineer team under the bus for placing this coolant pipe over plug #7. Why??? It took about two hours and I found a tube full of oil on hole #6. I couldn't stop the oil from going in the cylinder so I started it on 7 cylinders for like 10 seconds to avoid hydrolocking it.
#327
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
Yikes, that's not nice of them!
Smart move on turning the motor over to remove fluids from the chamber. Used to do this alot back in my Honda days, back when tuning was only in its infancy and overflowing larger injectors into the cylinders happened often. But when that happened, and we needed to cycle the motor over, we pulled the injector clips off so no additional fuel was being delivered during cranking.
Smart move on turning the motor over to remove fluids from the chamber. Used to do this alot back in my Honda days, back when tuning was only in its infancy and overflowing larger injectors into the cylinders happened often. But when that happened, and we needed to cycle the motor over, we pulled the injector clips off so no additional fuel was being delivered during cranking.
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AMIRZA786 (09-29-21)
#328
Yikes, that's not nice of them!
Smart move on turning the motor over to remove fluids from the chamber. Used to do this alot back in my Honda days, back when tuning was only in its infancy and overflowing larger injectors into the cylinders happened often. But when that happened, and we needed to cycle the motor over, we pulled the injector clips off so no additional fuel was being delivered during cranking.
Smart move on turning the motor over to remove fluids from the chamber. Used to do this alot back in my Honda days, back when tuning was only in its infancy and overflowing larger injectors into the cylinders happened often. But when that happened, and we needed to cycle the motor over, we pulled the injector clips off so no additional fuel was being delivered during cranking.
So, the tech installs a 6V battery in line w starter motor to prevent vaporized fuel from flying everywhere!!! lol
IDR the C/R on the 4.6 but I'm making payments on it, so it doesn't need a bent rod because I was lazy and didn't think about it... I did a few short burst as Yoda throws a flag when the ECU detects 300 consecutive misfire = (P0306). ECU didn't flag it but I never looked for pending codes either...
#329
See title, but I'm not seeing much love from the forums for the 11+ year old truck. So here's the deal, I want the CF18 relay flasher in my #2010 #Tundra so I can add the one tap programmable flasher to the Tundra (HINT HINT #Diode Dynamics). Why am I writing? Yoda decided to manage the truck line differently and make the relay able to handle more current by integrating front and rear relays into a single package like #81980-0C010 or #81980-0C020 (81980-0C020 no DRL) 819800C020.
Details:
The common CF18 unit like our 2IS uses 8 pins while the Toyota only truck proprietary relay uses an 18 pin (15 pins used) relay with the front and rear divided by separate mechanical relays and MOSFETs. This makes sense for the added loads of trailer lights and what not which I have as mine is tow package equipped. But the OEM setup does not allow for easy addition of LED lighting without inducing hyper flash. This may be a solution to that problem.
All of that said, the community has not done well as best I've read and some have done some crazy hacks to their rigs to add basic hardware like LED lighting.
Here, I intend to add the Diode Dynamics One Tap CF18 module to a #2010 #Tundra. But, I'd like some input here.
CF18 Relay (IS350 and others):
CF18 Pin out:
#81980-0C020 Pin out as best I know it:
So, the plan is to make an adapter harness to fit the CF18 module into the hole where the #81980-0C020 w/out DRL was by doing this:
What I don't know is if the Tundra electrical system shares a common connection between the front and rear relays (I think not as it defeats the purpose) but the question is, will it hurt anything if I bond them?? I could in my adapter add a relay to extend the load which would reduce any failures upstream when/if towing and/or adding extra load to the system. At least make it as robust as it was. Can do...
If anyone looks into the 2IS implementation of this, the stalk signal goes to CAN BUS MPX but also arrives at the signal relay as analog. They also leave the Stalk and notify the wiper relay ECM and Body BCM of data for other uses but the bottom line is the data in and out of the relay appears to be analog so this hardware conversion should work.
Any thoughts?
And where is Jeff Lang @Jeff Lange ,he is the expert at reading this stuff and making sense of it. PS - I have more schematics of both systems if someone wants to see them.
Details:
The common CF18 unit like our 2IS uses 8 pins while the Toyota only truck proprietary relay uses an 18 pin (15 pins used) relay with the front and rear divided by separate mechanical relays and MOSFETs. This makes sense for the added loads of trailer lights and what not which I have as mine is tow package equipped. But the OEM setup does not allow for easy addition of LED lighting without inducing hyper flash. This may be a solution to that problem.
All of that said, the community has not done well as best I've read and some have done some crazy hacks to their rigs to add basic hardware like LED lighting.
Here, I intend to add the Diode Dynamics One Tap CF18 module to a #2010 #Tundra. But, I'd like some input here.
CF18 Relay (IS350 and others):
CF18 Pin out:
#81980-0C020 Pin out as best I know it:
So, the plan is to make an adapter harness to fit the CF18 module into the hole where the #81980-0C020 w/out DRL was by doing this:
What I don't know is if the Tundra electrical system shares a common connection between the front and rear relays (I think not as it defeats the purpose) but the question is, will it hurt anything if I bond them?? I could in my adapter add a relay to extend the load which would reduce any failures upstream when/if towing and/or adding extra load to the system. At least make it as robust as it was. Can do...
If anyone looks into the 2IS implementation of this, the stalk signal goes to CAN BUS MPX but also arrives at the signal relay as analog. They also leave the Stalk and notify the wiper relay ECM and Body BCM of data for other uses but the bottom line is the data in and out of the relay appears to be analog so this hardware conversion should work.
Any thoughts?
And where is Jeff Lang @Jeff Lange ,he is the expert at reading this stuff and making sense of it. PS - I have more schematics of both systems if someone wants to see them.
The OEM module uses both mechanical relays for left and right (to the tail lights) as well as 4 high power MOS FETs HF75152, 2x to the front turn indicators, and 2x for tow package connector turn indicators. Sadly I can't find any data sheets on these FETs. Here is a corrected and revised pinout for the vehicle in question. I need to power the existing module and account for the brake input to understand when / if it plays a role and how I couple it to the new circuit.
Because the FETs are hot always their leakage current must be really low like micro amps. If anyone can find any data on them, they are likely good to +25V at 20A, single channel, please do share. They have no branding label or insignia.
The revised circuit may need some logic added to deal with a brake input I never thought a flasher relay would have... Goal is to mimic the OEM circuit and basically use the Diode Dynamics CF18 flasher relay to operate the OEM relay. This may require an optical coupling so the 7 or 8 inputs are note electrically ties together. i.e. 3 left signals, 3 right signals, and the brake input.
PS - this had a coating on it until bristled it away with lacquer thinner.
PS - currently the Tacoma, Tundra, Sequoia group grinds on RS1 and RS2 to minimize hyperflash when LEDs are installed. They have no one tap 4 blinks or programmable flasher settings
Last edited by 2013FSport; 10-15-21 at 04:41 PM. Reason: Added some details...
#330
Interested in locating a post / or additional information about removing / installing the two motor / engine mounts (Part # 12361-31201, left & right front engine mount), 2006-2013 IS 350 RWD.
Apologies if I may have overlooked however, did not come cross using the Search This Forum tool.
Apologies if I may have overlooked however, did not come cross using the Search This Forum tool.