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You are dedicated, I will say! I would have just bought Cusco RS LSD and taken it to my mechanic to do all the hard work . I know I would be missing out on all the fun, but if I did myself it would have probably taken a good 6 months
There is that trust thing I have with other people working on my stuff! lol
As for the unit, the OS-G should have much longer PM intervals. As once you wear our those fiber clutches, you pull the diff, pull the seals, carrier, and LSD unit out, open it for a rebuild and we'll I'm too old to that sh/t every couple of years. That's why they put a Torsen unit in the OEM installs. It's not the best at load control but maintenance is a fluid change vs an overhaul.
We'll see how this plays out. Im not as equipped shop hardware wise as I once was.
There is that trust thing I have with other people working on my stuff! lol
As for the unit, the OS-G should have much longer PM intervals. As once you wear our those fiber clutches, you pull the diff, pull the seals, carrier, and LSD unit out, open it for a rebuild and we'll I'm too old to that sh/t every couple of years. That's why they put a Torsen unit in the OEM installs. It's not the best at load control but maintenance is a fluid change vs an overhaul.
We'll see how this plays out. Im not as equipped shop hardware wise as I once was.
I know what you mean, but thankfully I have a good mechanic who does the job right. I don't have the time...or back for this type of work anymore. I'm a Senior Network Architect for a medical device startup that went public and it's all hands on deck, burning the midnight oil! I feel a little bad I sold my IS, but hopefully in a few years when the kids (actually no longer kids) finish college I'll probably pick up either a used GSF or IS500 as a weekend car, maybe I'll retire if my portfolio doesn't stop taking a nosedive.....
There is that trust thing I have with other people working on my stuff!.
QFE
To the point where my truck--which'll actually pass an inspection to get tagged--will never be tagged in CO because it involves some no-talent half-braincell mouthbreather with neon flashing lights around his ASE cert on the wall flooring it on the dyno. I'd rather deal with the inconvenience of maintaining an out of state residence to plate my truck--or just doing without it altogether--than allow that to happen. There's nobody more incompetent than private employees of companies with guaranteed work through government mandate.
Good news, I solved the No A/C issue in the Tundra [temporarily]
The bad news, I tossed crusty back in the hole. Mind you crusty came from the salvage yard and was factory equipped with break-in material that probably shouldn't have been there. See second photo.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
What is interesting is that after a 30 min drive (yes it made it that long), the diff with 3 in/lbs of rotational torque ran warm at 170F!!! Thankfully No leaks, no vibes, no crazy noises. This unit has a whirrrr to it under light load. It has a lot of backlash, which is likely related to the no load whirrrrrrrr. It's quiet under power and while decelerating, but makes noise under light load/ light cruise.
Hanging the rear diff took 45 min as mistakes were made. Prep before install was straightening bent dust shields, cleaning axles, greasing the drive shaft where the pinion stub enters (350 only), and installing the figs poly bushings which was huge disappointment.
As some of you may have noticed, the OEM rear bushings (3 bolts total) have a flange that locates the fore/aft position of the rear diff. The Poly figs bushings have no such flange to set the depth which would be fine EXCEPT the two pinion area hanger bolts are FLOATING IN SLOTS! Point, you can slide the diff back and forth. Its likely not a big deal but it also could have been made correctly and actually positioned the diff where it should BE!!!! Lesson Learned, be careful where you buy your stuff. For clarity, between the slots in the frame and the bolts in the vertical bushings (2X), there is 22mm of travel the drive shaft position may care about.
Anyway, anyone doing this job at home, make this setup as it worked perfectly to secure the diff to the jack allowing single person installation.
A 2x6, a 2x4, and short stack of wood. This was super stable, kept the nose up, and minimizing most lifting.
The install. Jack the beast up there fairly high, start the chosen axle, push the jack and diff towards the axles, rotate the pinion briskly until the axle aligns with the side gear splines, take your rubber mallet and seat the axle. The spring clip will make an obvious click when in.
Lower the diff down, push it as far left as it will go (my case here), turn it ~30 deg. and turn the other axle so it enters the hole. Now jack it up, twist the pinion until the axle slides in a bit, and get that mallet to the edge and BAM. The axle is in. Jack the diff up again which was the hardest part as the handle is too far away!
As it was I tried to fit the driveshaft to the pinion, but it was a fight, so I slid up under the car to the driveshaft carrier bearing and loosened the two bolts, it slid forward nearly 20mm. Back to the diff, turn it, tilt it, pop the driveshaft in and walla, everything is going good. So good even that I didn't need to get in the car and take it out of park. The driveshaft bolts even aligned allowing the bolts to go in. A lucky break I guess?
All is going well, so I jacked the diff into place and installed the 5 bolts. Then I saw that I left the upper cups off the front pinion mount bushings. -sigh- Take the bolts, lower it and install the cups and jack it back up. Granted, this should have taken minutes but the bone yard diff had the threads F'd up on the rear cover plate and I didn't notice until I went to put a bolt in the cover (the 2-holer). Each time this took 10min to get a single bolt in! Errrrrrr
Now that everything is in place, I cursed @FIGS for not putting flange on the poly bushings as the driveline can move nearly 30mm at the carrier bearing and the diff can move for/aft 20 mm, which means if things are tightened in the wrong place, either the flex coupler at the 350's pinion is strained and/or the carrier bearing rubber is strained. Anyway, I slid the diff for/aft until the driveshaft carrier bearing returned to its original position and tightened the vertical pinion bolts (2X) into place as the rear cover bushings are floating in the cross member and their position is maintained by the 2X pinion bolts up front, not the rear bushing flange like the OEM DID IT!!
Add oil, toss the braces on, toss the exhaust on and done in 3.5 hours with a lunch break. Not bad!
The bad news, I tossed crusty back in the hole. Mind you crusty came from the salvage yard and was factory equipped with break-in material that probably shouldn't have been there. See second photo.
What is interesting is that after a 30 min drive (yes it made it that long), the diff with 3 in/lbs of rotational torque ran warm at 170F!!! Thankfully No leaks, no vibes, no crazy noises. This unit has a whirrrr to it under light load. It has a lot of backlash, which is likely related to the no load whirrrrrrrr. It's quiet under power and while decelerating, but makes noise under light load/ light cruise.
Hanging the rear diff took 45 min as mistakes were made. Prep before install was straightening bent dust shields, cleaning axles, greasing the drive shaft where the pinion stub enters (350 only), and installing the figs poly bushings which was huge disappointment.
As some of you may have noticed, the OEM rear bushings (3 bolts total) have a flange that locates the fore/aft position of the rear diff. The Poly figs bushings have no such flange to set the depth which would be fine EXCEPT the two pinion area hanger bolts are FLOATING IN SLOTS! Point, you can slide the diff back and forth. Its likely not a big deal but it also could have been made correctly and actually positioned the diff where it should BE!!!! Lesson Learned, be careful where you buy your stuff. For clarity, between the slots in the frame and the bolts in the vertical bushings (2X), there is 22mm of travel the drive shaft position may care about.
Anyway, anyone doing this job at home, make this setup as it worked perfectly to secure the diff to the jack allowing single person installation.
A 2x6, a 2x4, and short stack of wood. This was super stable, kept the nose up, and minimizing most lifting.
The install. Jack the beast up there fairly high, start the chosen axle, push the jack and diff towards the axles, rotate the pinion briskly until the axle aligns with the side gear splines, take your rubber mallet and seat the axle. The spring clip will make an obvious click when in.
Lower the diff down, push it as far left as it will go (my case here), turn it ~30 deg. and turn the other axle so it enters the hole. Now jack it up, twist the pinion until the axle slides in a bit, and get that mallet to the edge and BAM. The axle is in. Jack the diff up again which was the hardest part as the handle is too far away!
As it was I tried to fit the driveshaft to the pinion, but it was a fight, so I slid up under the car to the driveshaft carrier bearing and loosened the two bolts, it slid forward nearly 20mm. Back to the diff, turn it, tilt it, pop the driveshaft in and walla, everything is going good. So good even that I didn't need to get in the car and take it out of park. The driveshaft bolts even aligned allowing the bolts to go in. A lucky break I guess?
All is going well, so I jacked the diff into place and installed the 5 bolts. Then I saw that I left the upper cups off the front pinion mount bushings. -sigh- Take the bolts, lower it and install the cups and jack it back up. Granted, this should have taken minutes but the bone yard diff had the threads F'd up on the rear cover plate and I didn't notice until I went to put a bolt in the cover (the 2-holer). Each time this took 10min to get a single bolt in! Errrrrrr
Now that everything is in place, I cursed @FIGS for not putting flange on the poly bushings as the driveline can move nearly 30mm at the carrier bearing and the diff can move for/aft 20 mm, which means if things are tightened in the wrong place, either the flex coupler at the 350's pinion is strained and/or the carrier bearing rubber is strained. Anyway, I slid the diff for/aft until the driveshaft carrier bearing returned to its original position and tightened the vertical pinion bolts (2X) into place as the rear cover bushings are floating in the cross member and their position is maintained by the 2X pinion bolts up front, not the rear bushing flange like the OEM DID IT!!
Add oil, toss the braces on, toss the exhaust on and done in 3.5 hours with a lunch break. Not bad!
I'll keep you posted on the Giken install.
Cheers
When I couldn't put my diff in. I did lower it then bolted back up. It seemed everything when back into place to drive shaft. You say the 20mm play could be off even in stock form? I haven't noticed anything that it could be off. No vibrations or whirrs. It's been awhile since too. So I guess I'll check alignment once I do my coil over install, and I can get the rear on ramps.
There is that trust thing I have with other people working on my stuff! lol
As for the unit, the OS-G should have much longer PM intervals. As once you wear our those fiber clutches, you pull the diff, pull the seals, carrier, and LSD unit out, open it for a rebuild and we'll I'm too old to that sh/t every couple of years. That's why they put a Torsen unit in the OEM installs. It's not the best at load control but maintenance is a fluid change vs an overhaul.
We'll see how this plays out. Im not as equipped shop hardware wise as I once was.
The OS Giken PM intervals are great as it's pretty similar to a Torsen LSD. Change the fluids every 30k-50k miles and no rebuilds are necessary. I think I have a little over 60k miles on my OS Giken LSD and it still works as well as when it was first installed.
When I couldn't put my diff in. I did lower it then bolted back up. It seemed everything when back into place to drive shaft. You say the 20mm play could be off even in stock form? I haven't noticed anything that it could be off. No vibrations or whirrs. It's been awhile since too. So I guess I'll check alignment once I do my coil over install, and I can get the rear on ramps.
But you still have the OEM rubber hanger in the rear rossmember? I'm talking about the Figs Poly.
The slip yoke of the two part driveshaft can easily make up the difference so it shouldn't be a problem. It is a factor of knowing it is or is not set up correctly.
IMO, much less of a problem for the 250 as those have a u-joint vs the flex coupler. In short, the flex coupler could be strained by improper positioning and you may not know it. I'm just wincing about poorly engineered products. They could have made it meet OEM requirements but they didn't bother much less warn anyone.
So the bone yard diff is crap. That will be incentive to get the LSD into my diff and get that thing out. Used diff has royal purple synthetic gear oil in it and man does it make some heat! In 3.5 miles it goes from 64°F to 103°. Something isn't right in there.
Currently I do not. I just happen to live in a super cool place with lots of twisty roads and every rear drive car I've owned has been fitted with one and really want to see how this one performs.
Any thoughts on this AC line Rock Auto squashed into the box???
It's supposed to mount low on the front of the Tundras condenser and route to the evaporator core at the firewall. Somehow it doesn't look to be pointed in the right direction!!!
Hey, at least it fit in the box when they were done. To bad it kinked some of the tighter bends.
07-08-22, 02:55 PM
. I know I would be missing out on all the fun, but if I did myself it would have probably taken a good 6 months
