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Following this thread since I've also had this happen to me. It's not concerning to me since it'll start up the second time every time, but I'm curious.
Not to side track my own thread too far off track but the last month has been hell! My SO was in a head collision in the Highlander. She is okay now but it was not good at all! Btw the Highlander is toast...
A shot of Chippy. Fall is coming!
And because we all love Toyota manufacturing, look at this cool trinket left in the Tundra rear diff for the 100k mile break in service. I guess I have all the luck when it comes to cleaning a diff before assembly.
Last little bit. I swapped the front and rear diff to Royal Purple Synthetic GL-5 75W90 and the 20 mile drive shows the temperature of each went up 20°F in the front and 35F in the rear diff. Anyone seen this after swapping diff fluid to synthetic?
Not to side track my own thread too far off track but the last month has been hell! My SO was in a head collision in the Highlander. She is okay now but it was not good at all! Btw the Highlander is toast...
A shot of Chippy. Fall is coming!
And because we all love Toyota manufacturing, look at this cool trinket left in the Tundra rear diff for the 100k mile break in service. I guess I have all the luck when it comes to cleaning a diff before assembly.
Last little bit. I swapped the front and rear diff to Royal Purple Synthetic GL-5 75W90 and the 20 mile drive shows the temperature of each went up 20°F in the front and 35F in the rear diff. Anyone seen this after swapping diff fluid to synthetic?
Sorry about your Highlander, glad your SO was unhurt. That's most important. I would have gone with Amsoil Heavy Gear oil, I've always had good luck with that product. I had that in my IS350 and it really smoothed it out and made the rear quieter. Never measured the temp though
Sorry about your Highlander, glad your SO was unhurt. That's most important. I would have gone with Amsoil Heavy Gear oil, I've always had good luck with that product. I had that in my IS350 and it really smoothed it out and made the rear quieter. Never measured the temp though
Yes sir glad your SO is OK. As for royal purple I'm running both front, and rear on my AWD. I noticed no difference in performance while running Mobile 1 previously for 50k. As for temps I never clocked them.
Yes sir glad your SO is OK. As for royal purple I'm running both front, and rear on my AWD. I noticed no difference in performance while running Mobile 1 previously for 50k. As for temps I never clocked them.
It was a 70°F day, ran 20mi on the freeway (same as before), front diff was 102, now 125F. Rear diff was in the 125F, now 160F. Lord I hope I don't kill it somehow!
PS A760H runs about 185F while the transfercase is 175F. It has fresh conventional oil as I ran out of RP and it needs GL-4 as it has brass in it.
The 350 stock the rear diff runs at 100F pretty much always until I put the boneyard diff in, which runs at 160°F and whines under light load. It will be interesting to see what the magnet looks like when it comes out.
SO is small frame, sits close to the wheel. Air bags rung her bell giving her a concussion. She was messed up for a while. =/
It was a 70°F day, ran 20mi on the freeway (same as before), front diff was 102, now 125F. Rear diff was in the 125F, now 160F. Lord I hope I don't kill it somehow!
PS A760H runs about 185F while the transfercase is 175F. It has fresh conventional oil as I ran out of RP and it needs GL-4 as it has brass in it.
The 350 stock the rear diff runs at 100F pretty much always until I put the boneyard diff in, which runs at 160°F and whines under light load. It will be interesting to see what the magnet looks like when it comes out.
SO is small frame, sits close to the wheel. Air bags rung her bell giving her a concussion. She was messed up for a while. =/
My wife as well, she is small and sits way too close to the wheel. She had an accident in 2012, totalled our 2004 Sienna and banged her forehead on the steering wheel and had a black eye and bump that took a few weeks to go down. The airbags never went off, the insurance adjuster said if they had it would have broken her nose. She hasn't learned her lesson and still sits right up on the steering wheel
In other news. Summer has been off the rails Busy Busy Busy! What I came to say is adding poly to the rear suspension does indeed kill the wheel hop induced by the 4 OEM rubber bushing mounts holding the rear diff to the subframe. Nope no LSD yet, just an observation...
It's about time to start grinding on the case, and rather than beating up the bearings I printed two of these for test fitting the LSD into the case.
Now to see if they fit the LSD!
Not to side track my own thread too far off track but the last month has been hell! My SO was in a head collision in the Highlander. She is okay now but it was not good at all! Btw the Highlander is toast...
A shot of Chippy. Fall is coming!
And because we all love Toyota manufacturing, look at this cool trinket left in the Tundra rear diff for the 100k mile break in service. I guess I have all the luck when it comes to cleaning a diff before assembly.
Last little bit. I swapped the front and rear diff to Royal Purple Synthetic GL-5 75W90 and the 20 mile drive shows the temperature of each went up 20°F in the front and 35F in the rear diff. Anyone seen this after swapping diff fluid to synthetic?
Loving the blue! What mileage intervals are the diff fluids required to be changed out? I had my rear diff fluid changed out about 60k miles ago and thinking of doing it again.
Loving the blue! What mileage intervals are the diff fluids required to be changed out? I had my rear diff fluid changed out about 60k miles ago and thinking of doing it again.
Thanks! I'd go with 60 to 70k... should be a good number. If tracked, maybe shorten it a bit.
Mind you there was a switcheroo there. The Tundra needed some TLC.
Smart on creating that bearing tool to save the actual bearing from receiving blows or direct press contact. Are the FD ring gear bolts reverse threaded like my Honda diff bolts of old?
Are you gonna freeze the diff and use a hot plate for the bearing?
Smart on creating that bearing tool to save the actual bearing from receiving blows or direct press contact. Are the FD ring gear bolts reverse threaded like my Honda diff bolts of old?
Are you gonna freeze the diff and use a hot plate for the bearing?
Had they made the case with enough space to accept the OS G carrier, I wouldn't need those. So, there is that. Thankfully the bolts are conventional threads but holding the assembly, that's another story.
Next steps, heat the ring gear to 212°F (likely boiling water) as I don't want the house smelling like gear oil from the oven, get the gear on the carrier, tighten it in place with the old bolts and allow it to cool.
Pull bolts, clean and loctite new bolts, torque and turn to spec.
Install fake bearings and start grinding housing until I can get the OS G carrier, gear, and bearings in the housing. Clean everything and press real bearings on.
Assemble and see if all the specs come back. Something like that....
Currently the hardship lies in holding the assembly while torquing the bolts. Some used an impact to turn the ring gear bolts 60 to 90 degrees but that doesn't sit well with me. I may need to make a holding fixture of some kind. IDK....
No clue what the torque applied is once we leave the initial 47ft/lbs and head to 70 degrees or whatever.... I only know it will suck if red loctite sets up and I can't hold the spool. You know what I mean?
I may torture the old bolts and a stack of washers to see where Iand....
Edit: that is a good point about the hot plate. I may be able to borrow one from work.
Many words need to be taken back as a who the F knew that giant spool would fit this late model case without GRINDING ANYTHING IT AT ALL!!!!
First, I fit the spool just to see what the heck might hit? Nothing. All is well. It drops right in.
As it's currently a balmy 36°F, and the spool fits in the case with my high speed 3d bearings, I figured, let's just see about this ring gear? Will it drop on with little fuss? Yep! It all but seated itself, so I tossed a few bolts in to hold it.
Does this fit in the case? Well wholly hell, it does without firing up the rotary file! All be damned! All this prep for Nothing!
PS - one wrong touch and the bearing cups slide right out letting the gear fall, hence the clamp.
Maybe I'll get my butt back to work and finish this!!!
Last edited by 2013FSport; 11-18-22 at 08:08 PM.
Reason: Gram
I left the 350 parked for over three weeks and want to state that in that time it appears the Navigation unit shutdown at some level. The car fired up fine, the only obvious sign was that some of the custom settings were reset (turned off the tracer of bread crumbs 'places traveled' and added highway exits back which has always been off). Nothing major but something to note.
I'm relieved I don't have to grind up the case to make the OSG fit!
Here I bought new compressor, a bunch of carbon tipped grinding bits, a lot of magnets, flapper polishing wheels, and lord knows what else getting ready to grind until it fits!!! lol
08-31-22, 10:57 AM
High speed bearing test fit
