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FSport's IS-350 running list of service & maintenance DIY

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Old 11-19-22, 03:25 PM
  #421  
MNEWGEN
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Thanks! I'd go with 60 to 70k... should be a good number. If tracked, maybe shorten it a bit.

Mind you there was a switcheroo there. The Tundra needed some TLC.

The 350 is getting an OS Giken. Eventually!
@2013FSport which type of front differential fluid do you suggest for our is350? I've heard of Liqui Moly but haven't done my front differential yet. I've completed the rear about 60k miles ago with Royal Purple 75W-90 and will be doing the same for the rear again. Thanks!
Old 11-19-22, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MNEWGEN
@2013FSport which type of front differential fluid do you suggest for our is350? I've heard of Liqui Moly but haven't done my front differential yet. I've completed the rear about 60k miles ago with Royal Purple 75W-90 and will be doing the same for the rear again. Thanks!

Old 11-21-22, 12:30 PM
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Well, though you didn't need to use the tools, you'll still have them for life; so not a bad thing I guess. LOL!

Any idea what model year that carrier was from?

Regarding the NAV, do you have any aftermarket items plugged into it? Besides when I purposely disconnect my battery, I've not had any "memory loss" issues with my '08 model year NAV.
Old 11-21-22, 08:07 PM
  #424  
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Originally Posted by MNEWGEN
@2013FSport which type of front differential fluid do you suggest for our is350? I've heard of Liqui Moly but haven't done my front differential yet. I've completed the rear about 60k miles ago with Royal Purple 75W-90 and will be doing the same for the rear again. Thanks!
The 350 is RWD but the rear is getting Amsoil severe duty.
Old 11-21-22, 08:40 PM
  #425  
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Well, though you didn't need to use the tools, you'll still have them for life; so not a bad thing I guess. LOL!

Any idea what model year that carrier was from?

Regarding the NAV, do you have any aftermarket items plugged into it? Besides when I purposely disconnect my battery, I've not had any "memory loss" issues with my '08 model year NAV.
Ya, there is that. Haha!

Recap: a while back I bought a used 4.08:1 gear set from LKQ. The one with the metal shavings looking like a coil spring on the magnet. In July, I swapped in the used LKQ diff (makes noise). The gear set and test fit is shown above is the original rear diff from 2013 with 105,xxx miles on it.

Current status - family mode. Nothing gets done this week!
Future state - clean everything and put it together.

The Nav turned off the cookie crumb feature and turned on future exits. Did it shut down? IDK. All I can say is it was different than when I left it and roughly 3+ weeks past while it sat. No harm. Everything works fine.

That's all for now.
Old 12-05-22, 09:22 PM
  #426  
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Meanwhile

Chippy sits outside in this while the utility trailer is in the garage! -sigh-

Clearly some priorities are wrong. Just know that futzing with frozen LSD brings up concerns.... so ya, garage has no heat or insulation... another project! lol
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Old 12-12-22, 04:26 PM
  #427  
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Clean build!
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Old 12-20-22, 01:27 PM
  #428  
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#2IS Electrical

I couldn't find a suitable thread to post this in, so its going here for now.
In the most forward 12V accessory port I placed a USB charger with a volt meter on it.

Here are a couple observations.
1) After sitting over night the system voltage hangs around 13.9 - 14.1 volts for about 10 to 12 minutes.
2) After 12 to 15 min. it settles to 13.4 - 13.6 volts.
3) Any warm start after meeting the 15 min. run time, results in line #2 the alternator settling at 13.3 - 13.6 volts.

Temps are in the 30°F here and have been warmer and colder, the same pattern repeated for weeks. I think this battery is at the 4 year old mark so it is time to keep an eye on it.
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Old 12-22-22, 01:37 PM
  #429  
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Yeah, like yours, I think my battery is nearing its end of useful life. Probably going to pickup an Interstate replacement at Costco here soon.
Old 12-29-22, 03:12 PM
  #430  
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Cool #OS-GIKEN LSD, Mega slow build

Finally some progress on the #OS-Giken build. I'm pretty sure this couldn't go any slower if I tried!

For anyone trying this at home, here are a few tips.
Clean the loctite out of the ring gear threads using thread chaser (which I didn't have) so I used lacquer thinner and wire brush in a drill. Then confirmed a clean bolt screws to depth in each hole.

Heating the ring on the BBQ to 200°F while laying on foil, allowed it to drop right on the carrier. Use the clean new bolts to confirm alignment as it needs to be dead nuts 'on' for 10X bolts to go in.

Allow to cool or your loctite will set way to fast. Which lead us into the next day using the shop at work big vice and press.

How to hold and Torque these:
I finally concluded there is no easy way to hold the OSG during the carrier bolt torque activity and ended up using a vice and two 1/2" drive extensions that loosely fit the back of spool.





With this setup, I did a two step criss-cross from 30# to 47# with red loctite to threads securely obtaining 47ft/lbs on the 10 bolts. The downside here is this setup wasn't cable of doing the 60 to 90° of rotation to final torque and I ended up using the IR650 impact wrench to complete the task. At this point, ring is attached.

Onto bearing press which had its own issues as the bearing inner race is shorter than the flange it fits and did not fully seat the bearings using flat press drivers.






In the last photo, I cut some aluminum making a shim and placed both sides back under the press and sure enough, the gaps closed and went away. Had I pulled the old bearings from the old carrier, i guess they could have been used but this worked okay and didn't take but 10min to make it.

Next steps, clean the housing and fight those evil snap-rings back in and check clearances. Fingers crossed this goes well.

PS - no power for 2 days, spent hours rebuilding fence after crazy wind storm, so it's been a wonderful lead into 2023. lol

Last edited by 2013FSport; 12-29-22 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 01-02-23, 10:52 AM
  #431  
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Red face #OS-GIKEN LSD, Mega slow build

Good news / bad news. 2022-12-31 the carrier went in the housing. If doing this work, install the right carrier bearing first, not the left. Also, lube the outer race and case as the bearings tend to stick going over the snap ring groove.

The backlash, runout, rotational torque, as well as power and coast patterns came in good. However, when lubed and spun, the left bearing makes a tick tick tick sound which I find unsettling and likely need to take it apart to see why. I could roll the dice and install it, but I've got a bad feeling it will be a waste of time, oil, seals, and all of that.

Backlash check:


Runout check:


Power side pattern check:


Coast side pattern check:


See attached file and Turn the audio up. The 'tick tick tick tick sound when spun either direction is the concern. Bearings and R&P have lube. Granted, getting the second snap ring in was a PITA but it went in and preload came into spec at 16 in/lbs, so it seems like it should be okay. Anyone ever hear bearings make that sound? Is it a real problem? I'm not honestly sure. Its just odd!
Attached Files
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Old 01-14-23, 03:17 PM
  #432  
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Good news / bad news. 2022-12-31 the carrier went in the housing. If doing this work, install the right carrier bearing first, not the left. Also, lube the outer race and case as the bearings tend to stick going over the snap ring groove.

The backlash, runout, rotational torque, as well as power and coast patterns came in good. However, when lubed and spun, the left bearing makes a tick tick tick sound which I find unsettling and likely need to take it apart to see why. I could roll the dice and install it, but I've got a bad feeling it will be a waste of time, oil, seals, and all of that.

Backlash check:


Runout check:


Power side pattern check:


Coast side pattern check:


See attached file and Turn the audio up. The 'tick tick tick tick sound when spun either direction is the concern. Bearings and R&P have lube. Granted, getting the second snap ring in was a PITA but it went in and preload came into spec at 16 in/lbs, so it seems like it should be okay. Anyone ever hear bearings make that sound? Is it a real problem? I'm not honestly sure. Its just odd!

Good news....
Conclusion: Not a problem. Listened with a stethoscope and that was inconclusive. As the cast iron absorbs the sound not transmitting at that RPM. Using sound tube on the stethoscope made it sound like gear lash but it was so faint.
Cleaned the ring of oil, it changed the feel of the mesh but not the sound. Oiled the ring gear up. Cleaned the side bearings one at a time of oil, no change.

Oiled the pinion bearings - walla! Noise is gone!!! Dryish bearings can make noise! I suspected the wrong one! Time to seal it up!

As for getting it in the car, it would be nice if the garage floor was sbove 45°F but that could take a while!
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Old 02-17-23, 10:41 AM
  #433  
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Talking Monthly post

ECU Sleepy time questions....
The 350 was left in a state of hibernation for over 3 weeks and I have some questions.

As found, no puddle lights on approach, but door unlock worked fine.
The temps were high 40F, car cranked a little slower than usual but fired right off. The NAV system started from scratch and after driving to destinations car has addresses for I noticed they weren't pinned or identified as before. Address book of destinations is still there tho. Upon reaching various destinations like 'home' it restored the pin drop.
Okay... thats fine normal /shutdown sequence followed by reboot.

Now for the interesting part, the ECM and EPS ECU's. I'll begin w the EPS, which I believe over time found the car going sideways more than it should and learned to dampen play time in both normal and ECT mode to a point that there was NO difference in behavior between the two, well it seemingly reset all that back to party mode and the wheel is astonishingly heavier as it should be in ECT mode.

The engine ECU also behaves different than a battery or fuse pull as the throttle response is back to what it was after intake pipe install, the idle smoother, and pull is better than it had been either from a dig or passing at highway speeds... Although still lacking LSD, if turning left slightly to load the right rear it easily leaves a good bit of rubber down through first and second and chirps into third which I don't ever recall it doing....

I'll finish with 'I found it interesting!'
ps - Waiting for warmer weather to complete the next upgrade...
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Old 03-27-23, 11:05 AM
  #434  
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Great work on the LSD install. Glad that bearing turned out to be nothing. Yep, using the old bearings to install the new bearings is a real time-safer!

I see I posted about getting a new battery, and I'm glad I did when I did because we got record breaking single digit COLD weather back in Feb!

Keep the good work my friend!
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Old 04-02-23, 10:59 AM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Great work on the LSD install. Glad that bearing turned out to be nothing. Yep, using the old bearings to install the new bearings is a real time-safer!

I see I posted about getting a new battery, and I'm glad I did when I did because we got record breaking single digit COLD weather back in Feb!

Keep the good work my friend!

Thanks D. The weather continues to mess with plans. It has inspired some new lines on the car tho!





@MikeFig82
I made some gauges for the Tundra that work on the 350 and was pleasantly surprised when the trims stay in sync on the freeway. After a transition in throttle they might differ for a short while but snap right back into alignment in a couple of frame refreshes.





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