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^^ Thanks!
It was a year plus in the making to find a 350 RWD, double win was F-Sport & USB. Mainly as I hate wood grain anything in the cabin. I need to drive a non F-Sport RWD to see what the differences are in handling.
On that note it would be nice to drive an IS-F to see if the Steering Computer is worth the upgrade from the stock 350 F-Sport option.
2012 - 2013, F-Sport ECU PN: 89650-53082 (<2012 "53081") vs base IS-350 89650-53061 (53060 for earlier).
I like how it drives however I hate how easily the nannies kick in. Steering input is light at low speed, firms up and is stable and very predictable at high speed. There is however no noticeable change from normal to sport mode.
Even if you get a chance to drive a late model IS-F (11+), it probably won't be an apples-to-apples comparison to your 350 F-Sport as there are model specific differences in curb weight, weight distribution, and other variables that depend on the specific car you test drive (i.e. tires) that will impact the tactile feedback you receive from the front tires to the steering wheel. As I leave my ECT mode on PWR at all time (with an 11+ IS-F steering ECU), there is minimal power assist compared to Normal mode which keeps the steering feeling firm and heavy at most speeds (it still lightens up a bit at parking lot speeds).
Based on your dislike on how easily the nannies kick in, the improved VDIM parameters from the IS-F steering ECU (Sport Mode) may be worth the purchase for you. If I leave stability control on (very rarely) and engage in a hooligan-style turn, the ISF Sport Mode VDIM is much less intrusive than the stock ISX50 but it still is enough for me to prefer leaving stability control off 99.9% of the time (unless my rear tires are at the wear bar limit and there is heavy rain).
You can get an idea of how the non F-Sport RWD compares to your 2013 F-Sport in terms of handling in this track comparison:
Even if you get a chance to drive a late model IS-F (11+), it probably won't be an apples-to-apples comparison to your 350 F-Sport as there are model specific differences in curb weight, weight distribution, and other variables that depend on the specific car you test drive (i.e. tires) that will impact the tactile feedback you receive from the front tires to the steering wheel. As I leave my ECT mode on PWR at all time (with an 11+ IS-F steering ECU), there is minimal power assist compared to Normal mode which keeps the steering feeling firm and heavy at most speeds (it still lightens up a bit at parking lot speeds).
Based on your dislike on how easily the nannies kick in, the improved VDIM parameters from the IS-F steering ECU (Sport Mode) may be worth the purchase for you. If I leave stability control on (very rarely) and engage in a hooligan-style turn, the ISF Sport Mode VDIM is much less intrusive than the stock ISX50 but it still is enough for me to prefer leaving stability control off 99.9% of the time (unless my rear tires are at the wear bar limit and there is heavy rain).
You can get an idea of how the non F-Sport RWD compares to your 2013 F-Sport in terms of handling in this track comparison:
Redspencer, thanks again for your input on this topic! And ya, a 350 with the later model ecu would be best for a drive (will never be apples to apples) but I rarely see any of either here (350 or F)... Our climate although mild loads us with 250 AWD for the most part.
I think the first leap will be RR ecu flash while waiting for ISF steering ecu and go from there.
Anyone wanting more info about their audio, Nav, Amp, or anything else in the center;
With engine on, vehicle stopped, turn the light switch to OFF. Press and hold the Info button and turn the light switch on then off 3 times. The touch screen will go into a new mode offering options for equipment versions, hardware versions and diagnostic features. You will also find settings for mic input and bluetooth volumes. Could be helpful if someone can't hear you.
Here are some crappy pictures. Units with Nav will have more options.
Turn the key off when done.
15 months out the battery is crapping out on the 2IS. Getting it replaced tomorrow.
Here is a link for a little trouble shooting if you have a volt meter. Very basic diagnostic tips.
While replacing the brake pads with Akebono performance and front rotors, I found out the rear driver side brake calliper was seized so i replaced both rear calipers with remanufactured ones. Other than this, this car currently at 75k km has no other issue.
While replacing the brake pads with Akebono performance and front rotors, I found out the rear driver side brake calliper was seized so i replaced both rear calipers with remanufactured ones. Other than this, this car currently at 75k km has no other issue.
Chart from Torque Pro, stock 2013 IS-350 @ 78,xxx mi.
Logging set to 0.20 seconds.
Rolling start at 4mph hits R-limiter at 86.x in 3rd.
Max MAF = 224g/s
Timing gets pulled back a good bit on the shifts...
Notice the ignition advance takes a pretty good hit at max load when it bangs the next gear.
Anyone care to share their data and compare?
Installed the SmartTap CF18 LED Flasher relay. Unlike some posts the blink count can be programmed per instructions provided. Lift stalk and switch the ignition on to add to the flash count or push it down and turn the ignition on to decrease the flash count.
Pulled a Denso Toyota #81980-30170 flasher from the dash.
Need some LED turns up front now to complete the cycle.
LED Turn Indicator into late model 2IS front housing:
I went to install these LED Amber front turn indicators but they are too long and hit the 2013 housing. See below.
It looks as though bumper removal is required for the left side as the washer fluid container is in the way and looks to be a major PITA should these LED's ever fail.
Edit#1:
DO NOT BUY THESE for our Application!!! They won't fit!
Alla Lighting 2800lm 7440 7443 LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs Xtreme Super Bright
EDIT#2 - they don't fit either... they won't plug into connector without spreading it and possibly breaking it. These have 4 wires, insert one way for max brightness, the other way for reduced brightness. One might be able to simply cut a wire off to allow them to fit, I deemed it not worthy and walked away, no changes.
Looks like I'm leaving incandescent bulbs in for now.
/return
Perhaps I should have started with Diode Dynamics and it would have cost the same. Sadly they only state the size as 7443 and I didn't want to look up bulb specs at that detail.
As in, do these fit?
IDK! https://www.diodedynamics.com/7443-hp11-led-pair.html
Last edited by 2013FSport; 03-25-21 at 10:05 AM.
Reason: LED's that don't fit... =/
I won't say this is exhaustive or 100% accurate, I just pulled out the obvious suspension bits applied to the 2013 F-Sport 2IS chassis. Many of the hard parts (minus springs and dampers) are on the IS-F. Steering ECU and interior frills are not listed here. I guess if it's good enough for the I-SF, it's good enough for us.
It seems they changed a lot of little things in the rear. I'm guessing to give it more negative camber in the corners under body roll conditions??
Snap shot is springs, dampers, sway bars, toe links, A-arm, spindle. As I've said before, it drives pretty good!
Edit 2021-03-24, adding shock part numbers.
Front: From 2010-08 to 2013-04. Tokico GSE20,21; MARK 48510-53260, SUSPENSION-SPORTS; RF > 48510-53260 -> 48510-80539
From 2010-08 to 2013-04. Tokico GSE20,21; MARK 48520-53170, SUSPENSION-SPORTS; LF > 48520-53170 -> 48520-59655
Rear: X2 From 2010-08 to 2013-04. Tokico GSE20,21; MARK 48530-53280, SUSPENSION-SPORTS; LR/RR > 48530-53280 -> 48530-80574 X2
I was walking out and saw the lighting wasn't a total injustice so I took this while Lexi awaits a map up date to the ECU.
For anyone else who thinks Lexus fell short on their paint scheme there are some clean up options; like they couldn't blow down $12 worth of USB to match the body on the core support OR paint it all black.
In the before after pictures below I applied a tape line and simply used lacquer thinner and rag to remove the black overspray from the hardened grey undercoat thus giving it a clean line.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
FWIW: the grey is pretty tolerant of lacquer thinner while the black and blue have no hardener and quickly dissolve with solvents,
Ya, that has annoyed me since the first time I saw it; OEM rattle can? Is that what happened here? Silly Lexus penny pinchers!
Last edited by 2013FSport; 01-20-20 at 07:23 AM.
Reason: Clarification of method.
12-27-18, 03:06 PM
Diagnostic mode
LED Turn Lighting Front Housing
Clean up
