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@Ultra4 So I removed the TB valve to clean that mesh behind it and look and see what if any build up is in the intake. The accordion hose has zero oil film or deposits while the intake upper plenum is saturated but no real build up per say.
This thing sees RPM often, its got 82k mi, I lock the trans in dedicated positions for descending hills as I hate riding the brakes and having it bang through 6 gears only to reach a stop sign. My guess is that normal engine shut down vapors and pulling high vacuum add to this build up and its pretty normal for all engines. I'll have to pull the intake and see what my 30,000 miles of driving has done for it.
And yes, the main reason for all the snooping is curiosity if this could possibly straddle the 3.5????
Inside the 2UR intake (a CL Link)...
Gathering info as this has far too many similarities to ignore...
With ECU in the mail, a good time to do some cleaning and painting. Stripped all four calipers and painted with hardened enamel paint. Color is close enough to look like it belongs with the USB (I think).
Very nice build thread! Do you happen to know how or the cost of getting the navigation maps/center display updated without going through the dealer? I have the same vehicle as you but mine is 2011 SFP
In case you didn't catch my comment in the Head Games thread, bore spacing on the block is 105.5mm across the *R family of engines, and the intake ports on the GR family all seem symmetrical (exhausts all bias to the center cylinder), so I'm thinking the difficulty setting for your intake swap idea is going to be bolt hole spacing. If that's your only issue, either cut the flanges off from around the ports and make your own flange, or get yourself some 3/8" aluminum stock to run countersunk or cap-heads to the engine, and studs sticking up for the manifold. If port spacing is fine, but alignment is off, good ol' JB Weld will be the most user-friendly way to correct the airflow (scuff the surface to 80grit 1st).
My biggest problem with this design of intake is the same problem I have with almost all OEM V8 manifolds: it's destined for lower-RPM success by the fact that the plenum section of the manifold is constantly having cylinders with differing exhaust characteristics (less so with long-tubes headers) drinking from the same well that's fed from a single source at a somewhat constant rate, so as the engine goes through it's RPM range, the points of greatest effect on airflow within the plenum are constantly changing. Moreover, the cylinders furthest from the TB are going to consistently be at a higher vacuum than those nearest, since the air they get has already been drank from and disturbed by the other cylinders. There's a point--and it comes sooner on this design than other designs--where the incoming air from the TB stalls the closest ports to the TB, but demand at the furthest cylinders is still not being met...that tends to be the maximum amount of air that design will ever flow, regardless of what you do to it or bolt under it. The folded plenum design that the 2GR has is superior in concept, but the S-curve that the air has to take from the TB to the upper plenum runners, then down into the driver side intake ports, gives too much opportunity for the air to slow down and lose energy...thus getting stretched out more, more vacuum signal differential, ect. Then we get into how much intake energy is being lost through the plastic itself...
You'll definitely feel a low- to mid-rpm torque bump from the less restrictive runner paths, though. Shorter runners fill faster, but don't bring the intake charge up to as high of a port velocity at higher RPMs, so short runners tend to produce all the torque first, then taper off. Longer runners tend to stretch the air out more at lower RPMs until the intake energy is high enough to eventually start slamming the back of the valve with higher pressure charges at certain resonances. Whether the UR plenum design will allow you more HP at the same RPM is on the table...
Last edited by Ultra4; 06-30-19 at 05:03 PM.
Reason: I don't know my left from right.
I wanna point out that I'm explaining all of this backward. Intake valves are closer to a drain in the bottom of an aquarium than, say, the poppet in a paintball gun (until under manifold boost, anyway...). The concept of stretching the air across different port conditions and transferring energy along the way is what I'm trying to explain here.
Very nice build thread! Do you happen to know how or the cost of getting the navigation maps/center display updated without going through the dealer? I have the same vehicle as you but mine is 2011 SFP
Thanks...
I never looked for alternate options as you could brick your Nav unit if you botch the update. That said a Toyota dealer quoted me $200 to update it. IIRC mine is Gen6 HDD that is updated via USB and a dealer only laptop tool needed to do it. Well so I was told.
Can't off much more at this point. Stop at a Toyota place and talk to them. Not all seem to have Lexus access though...
You'll have to confirm this: Navigation unit has a map data from late 2012. I found this when I looked 2 years ago. PT219-HDD07-16 (Master USB SST LEXD-HDD07-16) is the the one but.... Site shows $160
As of today I am not sure if there is a newer one.
So for anyone doing the G2 Brake Caliper Paint here are some tips.
My car is NW vehicle so rust and corrosion is minimal. That said I used a citric spray cleaner, brushes, soap, water and rags to do 90% of the cleaning. Ya, you can blow the dust off and breath it in, but soap and water is prevents all that. Followed brake cleaner and wipe with cotton cloth, then by lacquer thinner wipe down and mask off.
Buy at least 3 wider flat brushes and 2 narrow ones like come in the box. The two part paint remains pretty applicable for a solid hour or more at 70F. That said it takes longer than that to apply two coats to 4 calipers. I'd suggest you divide the paint and hardener in half do one side of the car at a time as the paint seems to cure quicker once thin, again, have more brushes to throw away as they dry up and lead to streaks on flat surfaces. This paint system does self level but if the day is hot you could easily be out of time if the whole thing is mixed and one attempts to do all 4 calipers at once.
Notes:
Years ago I used to paint but honestly you can't buy good high temperature urethane paint, reducer, catalyst and have it blended to match for the cost of this product so I thought I'd give it a shot. How it will hold up? That has yet to be decided.
Also, do not plan on assembling this as it was tacky after 4 hours with two coats. Allow to cure for 24 hours as you really need to handle it to assemble the calipers.
An update on tire wear.
I have IS-F LCA installed and run thw 225's at 37 PSI and have wear on both the inner and outer edges that at 20,xxx miles, will take them out of commission with tread in the middle. I can't prove it is not the LCA taking both edges due to deflection as I'm running about a 1/32" of toe-in which is not favorable to the outer edges but does help spare the inners. The next step is OEM LCA from the RC-F.
Here is where we are headed. 2016 RC-F
48075 - BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO,1 - Right 48075-24010 , OFFSET:0, REFER R/M
Anyone else buying OEM hardware, watch out for this one... For anyone buying OEM hardware, there are two Anti-Rattle springs (big leaf spring that push the pads into caliper) for the front of the IS-350:
2IS 350 PN's front: OEM Anti-Rattle Spring# 04947-22070, FITTING KIT, DISC = 1 Kit contains 2 springs and 2 pin clips. VS 47748-22460, SPRING, ANTI-RATTLE = 1 kit contains 1 leaf spring (Requires 2 kits, has no pin clip).
OEM Shim kit# 04945-30350, SHIM KIT, ANTI = contains 8 SS shims, 4 are backed with something looking like Kevlar but no real clue what it is. OEM Pads# 04465-30450, PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE // Front pad set, NBK D6893H, I think these are blue or green FWIW. Looking for other options.
For now I used to two products that stopped the annoying brake squeal from the nose by cleaning the hardware and using CRC Disc Brake Quiet. I added the product between pads and anti-rattle shim and tiny dabs where it shim contacts the calipers pistons. The squeal on initial cold touch of the brakes is gone. Lets see if it lasts the remainder of the pads.
On the rear calipers I applied Valvoline Crimson High Pressure, water resistant grease for the pin slides and the same CRC product to the shims.
Hopefully this helps someone out there with these same problems.
RR racing tune has been in play since last week and it wakes the 350 up enough to let you know it has trouble breathing. The question now is what to do next? Headers alone will likely do little and our firing order being 1 2 3 4 5 6 on a V6, I just don't see the need or benefit for equal length primaries. More important to our cause is no sharp bends, not too large, and good collector at least 18" long. That said what hurts the most is downstream so headers won't be a night and day change w/out fixing the axle back.
One little tid bit about the tune is that although it does allow the engine to rev higher before fuel cut the only way to get there is to manually hold the gear. As in this doesn't change the OEM shift point the car came with so its not like its getting wrung out everytime you pin it. It does make shifts a little more aggressive but it does that if driving aggressively anyway. This is like a little amplifier to that.
When I get the software installed I'll post up some KCLV values as well as data from torque pro.
As a heads up, Torque Pro doesn't have the feature to log KCLV. You'll need the OBD Fusion app with the Lexus PID add-on if you want to monitor your KCLV and Knock Feedback Value (KFV). It's still worth purchasing this app in order to fully monitor your ECU and to see if timing is being pulled back during WOT pulls.
As a heads up, Torque Pro doesn't have the feature to log KCLV. You'll need the OBD Fusion app with the Lexus PID add-on if you want to monitor your KCLV and Knock Feedback Value (KFV). It's still worth purchasing this app in order to fully monitor your ECU and to see if timing is being pulled back during WOT pulls.
Thanks, I know. That said, good to know fusion has that with the yoda option pack installed. I went to buy it weeks ago and couldn't pay so it slipped off radar for a bit. My old laptop is POS in the battery department but I have a replacement. I just need install the software on that but fusion seems a lot easier!
PS - I wrote the guys at figs before and after the holiday about about the Giken LSD and no reply so thats like 4 strikes for them not responding. The flip side is I've had V8s with Ford Trak-Loc LSD and ya, pulling the 9-inch 3rd member for new clutches every 25k mi gets old. It just seems ridiculous that any other chassis has options for good LSD except this one so it seems to be a rock and $$$$ place lol....
The trip to work and over the weekend it sure comes alive when the IAT are low 60's... Should we do what Dodge did and divert the intake charge through the AC evaporator???
You can also look into getting an ATS Carbon LSD or Cusco LSD which are both ~$1,000 cheaper than the OS Giken. Major drawbacks are the significantly shorter fluid change intervals and the possibility of having to perform an overhaul after every XX,XXX miles.
A couple of things to share.
A tune/generic flash does not compromise fuel economy, your foot does.
Finally loaded OBD Fusion app with the Yoda PID pack and there are a lot of variables to scan through. Worth every penny.
Last little thing; it seems the harder you run the 350 the higher the KCLV value goes. Its sitting at 25 so I think all is well. During warm weather commute it varies between 19.5 and 22.5 which if your think about when PI end and DI begins at WOT/Max load, that seems OK.
06-22-19, 09:08 AM
