FSport's IS-350 running list of service & maintenance DIY
#16
TechStream screen shots....
As seen by Techstream....
Tire Pressure Monitor Live..., EMPS Live, Body Live, Occupant Detection Live, Smart Access Live
And if you look close you notice the battery voltage dropping rapidly as the 4+ year old battery drops like a rock with the key on and engine off. Needless to say I knew she needed a new battery and killing it in 10min of key on was the cue to replace it now before I get left stranded or replacing parts degraded by an aged battery.
Tire Pressure Monitor Live..., EMPS Live, Body Live, Occupant Detection Live, Smart Access Live
And if you look close you notice the battery voltage dropping rapidly as the 4+ year old battery drops like a rock with the key on and engine off. Needless to say I knew she needed a new battery and killing it in 10min of key on was the cue to replace it now before I get left stranded or replacing parts degraded by an aged battery.
#17
Testing - CL image to full size is possible...
Since this photo was taken she has new skins -> BFGoodrich G-Force Comp 2 A/S 225/255/40R18... What a great tire in dry, wet, and snow conditions! Incredible performance in the corners and rear bite. Traction control hardly comes into play during hard launch. It was these or the Continental DW06 and I'm glad I picked the BFG.
Only dig is they have a little shuffle in strong winds yet you don't have to set them in corner or a sweeper.
It's a good tire for the price break. The old tires simply made a smoke screen during launch and these hook and bite. Read the reviews....
Last edited by 2013FSport; 01-08-18 at 12:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
rob3rtx (10-19-23)
#19
True dat.... ^^
Looks like next mod will be front LCA bushings to see if poly does save the inner edges.
Those Comp 2 A/S have phenomenal bite. With track disabled on flat even asphalt she just squats and goes... Thus I may opt for power mods before that LSD swap.
#20
Smart Key Unlock all doors one press:
Default mode is one click opens drivers door (or door touch), two clicks unlocks all doors.
On key fob and when in range of car push and hold both lock and unlock simultaneously for about 5 seconds. Car Chirps repeatedly.
If drivers door is opened, all doors open. If Fob is pushed once, all doors unlock. Car chirps 4X.
To return to single door/single button press, push both buttons for 5 sec.
What it does do for my car:
1) If I hold the unlock and lock down as you said : by touching the handle, it opens both doors.
2) If I hold the unlock and lock down again: by touching the handle, it only opens driver door.
However, there is no effect, using the remote unlock button. That still opens driver only with one click.
#21
Tried it on my 2012 ISC, and sadly it didn't work
What it does do for my car:
1) If I hold the unlock and lock down as you said : by touching the handle, it opens both doors.
2) If I hold the unlock and lock down again: by touching the handle, it only opens driver door.
However, there is no effect, using the remote unlock button. That still opens driver only with one click.
What it does do for my car:
1) If I hold the unlock and lock down as you said : by touching the handle, it opens both doors.
2) If I hold the unlock and lock down again: by touching the handle, it only opens driver door.
However, there is no effect, using the remote unlock button. That still opens driver only with one click.
And you're saying remote does not open both doors with a single press but touching drivers door unlocks both doors? So it does change its behaviour.
That is interesting. Perhaps the difference between the sedan and convertible??
I found that while trying to put a spare remote to sleep. Apparently we can't on the 2IS platform.
#22
You were in range of the car?
And you're saying remote does not open both doors with a single press but touching drivers door unlocks both doors? So it does change its behaviour.
That is interesting. Perhaps the difference between the sedan and convertible??
I found that while trying to put a spare remote to sleep. Apparently we can't on the 2IS platform.
And you're saying remote does not open both doors with a single press but touching drivers door unlocks both doors? So it does change its behaviour.
That is interesting. Perhaps the difference between the sedan and convertible??
I found that while trying to put a spare remote to sleep. Apparently we can't on the 2IS platform.
Correct, remote when unlocked, opens one door only. However, pressing buttons changes how the locks open by touching the handle. Has no impact on the buttons on the remote itself. It does change behavior, yes.
#23
Since you just installed a new set of tires, upgraded front LCA bushings will definitely prolong the life on your tires. You can further enhance the life of your tires by setting the front toe to zero.
The following 2 users liked this post by redspencer:
2013FSport (01-08-18),
bazzle01 (10-11-18)
#24
Thanks! I see your sig shows them. Looks like Lexus is ramping up the durometer of the oem LCA as the ISF and RCF have gone through a few PN changes too.
When I got it in July the toe was fubar at 1/4" out and the insides were not looking so good then.
I jacked the pressure in the nose to 42psi and toed it in to 1/16 and got another 5k from them before they were maypops.... No cords showing and tires weren't at the wear bars either. I did get the seller to take $ off for the issue so all is well.
When I got it in July the toe was fubar at 1/4" out and the insides were not looking so good then.
I jacked the pressure in the nose to 42psi and toed it in to 1/16 and got another 5k from them before they were maypops.... No cords showing and tires weren't at the wear bars either. I did get the seller to take $ off for the issue so all is well.
#25
Changed a couple of the default settings. As DD no need to lock and unlock all doors when in and out of gear and silly lights do not always turn off when doors are locked via remote so I disabled the timer. Lights off upon door open.
1st one is before changes are saved.
1st one is before changes are saved.
Last edited by 2013FSport; 02-02-18 at 07:36 AM.
#26
For those installing none OEM lights such as Spec - D tail lights, this worked well for applying silicone to seal them.
Grabbed a 1.0 oz syringe having a luer lock and a 45° tip.
Wipe down adjoining sections with isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth.
Pump in some black RTV into the syringe, burp the air and install tip.
Tip od is 0.0730" or so. Fill the gaps and run a Q-tip through the angle to create a nice fillet. Mainly visible at trunk lift.
Allow to dry and install lights.
This is what I used. Hope they vent OK and don't condensate.
Tip ID is roughly 0.060".
Grabbed a 1.0 oz syringe having a luer lock and a 45° tip.
Wipe down adjoining sections with isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth.
Pump in some black RTV into the syringe, burp the air and install tip.
Tip od is 0.0730" or so. Fill the gaps and run a Q-tip through the angle to create a nice fillet. Mainly visible at trunk lift.
Allow to dry and install lights.
This is what I used. Hope they vent OK and don't condensate.
Tip ID is roughly 0.060".
#29
^^ Thanks! Where to begin. lol
I've thought about a lot of opportunities to help it breath and get some sound out back. I thinks it's the go big or go home mode! As in I want both fear a rice sound!
Unlike motorcycle exhaust at least you're buying a larger quantity of hardware for a ridiculous price! =/
I've thought about a lot of opportunities to help it breath and get some sound out back. I thinks it's the go big or go home mode! As in I want both fear a rice sound!
Unlike motorcycle exhaust at least you're buying a larger quantity of hardware for a ridiculous price! =/
The following users liked this post:
FSporting (08-27-21)
#30
13 months and 20,000 miles later, bye bye Power Train Warranty! 70,000 mi came up quick! Probably should be racking the miles up on a beater but what fun is that!!!?
Time for some fluid swaps and deeper inspections!