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Hey guys, foolishly started to break down my car in an attempt to do a NA-t conversion.
My car is a 1998 Sc300 VVTI with only 115,000 miles, and its an automatic transmission.
Here is what I have collected:
-CX Racing T70 trubo kit
-CX Racing FMIC for 2jz-ge
-Apexi SAFC NEO
-2JZGTE VVTI ECU out of an aristo
-GM IAT sensor
-GodSpeed oil lines
(My biggest concern is with going against the grain and using a VVTI motor, mostly with the electronics and wiring of the disturber and coils.)
As It sits, I have the turbo/wastegate/and downpipe, and the intercooler all mounted up.
The IAT bung is all welded up and attached to the intercooler piping, and now waiting for the rest of my piping to be made as I am not using the MAF adapter given to me by CX racing.
Other Upgrades on my car include:
PBM coilovers, LS400 breaks with Stop tech rotors and pads, muffler delete, Pioneer double din, RX300 steering wheel, and KBD front lip.
Nice SC! Very clean! You're on the right track so far with one exception: to go NA-T with a 1998+ 2JZ-GE engine you will need to rebuild the bottom end with stronger rods (at least non-vvt-i rods) or source a good non-VVT-i bottom end. The stock rods, pistons and piston rings in your engine are not designed for boost. They may hold a bit but they are a significantly weaker/thinner design than used in the earlier 1992-1997 engine.
I am not sure how much power the stock 1998+ auto transmission is known to hold reliably but that is probably also a consideration for replacement.
The particulars of the NA-T setup and wiring I can't address as well as others can but those points above are what I would look into first. There is also Cali smog to deal with but you are no doubt aware of that hurdle out here.
The stock NA won't handle much more than factory numbers. I have a built Boost Logic NA tranny in my NA-T car that was making a little over 400 at the rear wheels and it's toast now. Best thing to do is find a TT A340 and have it built by ATF. There built tranny will handle up to 800 rear wheel. That's what I have now.
Best thing to do is find a TT A340 and have it built by ATF. There built tranny will handle up to 800 rear wheel. That's what I have now.
Shane
Patrick of ATF always told me not to push it above 850rwhp but I have pushed that trans to 940rwhp / 760ft./lbs of torque on my OldManTan with a Gen2 PT-7675 CEA . But I have 3 huge trans fluid coolers with a fluid filter.
Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. I probably should of also included my current power target, which is only around 300-330 hp. This is one of my daily drivers and would still like it to be reliable as I drive 80 miles both ways for school. So I'm currently not too worried about the trans and or rods at this point in time.
Patrick of ATF always told me not to push it above 850rwhp but I have pushed that trans to 940rwhp / 760ft./lbs of torque on my OldManTan with a Gen2 PT-7675 CEA . But I have 3 huge trans fluid coolers with a fluid filter.
Is ATF considered to be the best choice for an auto transmission that will be daily driven?
Originally Posted by Conner
Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. I probably should of also included my current power target, which is only around 300-330 hp. This is one of my daily drivers and would still like it to be reliable as I drive 80 miles both ways for school. So I'm currently not too worried about the trans and or rods at this point in time.
Do you know if the Aristo vvt-i gte ecu that you're using will be able to control your current transmission?
A few miles on my ATF A340, only downsides:
1. all shifts are extremely hard regardless of RPM and throttle position
2. this will loop the car if it happens on wet pavement
3. you may have nag ATF about getting your $500 core deposit back
4. many months later: still have not received a "paid" invoice, a warranty statement, or any instructions, set-up advice, service intervals etc.
Damn brother that sucks. I am going to have them build my trans, I just hope that doesn't happen to me. They are the only shop I know that builds strong A340s
Alright guys well its been a while...but with all good news.
The car has come around and is running well after many small issues.
I even had it at Toyota Fest Long Beach 2018.
Here are some Recent shots:
Alright, so this is how I got this thing to work.
I decided to use all the stock electronics & ECU. After installing the kit and test driving the car, once the car would hit boost it would go into a safe mode.
Later to realize that the car is overboosting and the car is running extremely lean. The wastegate wasn't doing the job so I opted for a Tial MV-R and welded the flange on. The car ran great, after a street tune and all it has treated me well for 3-4 months strong!
Congrats on getting the car running. You mentioned you used all stock electronics and ecu, but you also mentioned doing a street tune. Did you add some kind of piggyback to do a tune?
forgot to mention that I'm still using the SAFC NEO.
Hey, I just picked up a 98 VVTI car, do you mind telling your final horsepower numbers and do you have any advice for someone considering an NA-T setup?
Hey, I just picked up a 98 VVTI car, do you mind telling your final horsepower numbers and do you have any advice for someone considering an NA-T setup?
I did a rather extensive 99 vvti 2jzge build. Many others here have too. Final horsepower and torque numbers will matter greatly on your specific build and your tuner. My recommendation is to make a clear roadmap of exactly how to get to your final end goal. Then develop a budget and try and find good quality used parts. Remember: fast, cheap, and reliable. You can only pick 2. If it’s fast and cheap, it won’t be reliable. If it’s cheap and reliable, it won’t be fast. And if it’s fast and reliable, it won’t be cheap. Do a lot of homework and keep asking questions!
Ps- I have no clue what his power numbers are. Sorry. lol
09-07-17 | 10:13 PM
My 1998 VVTI NA-T build attempt
