When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Spent some time going through the build thread and this thing came together really nicely! Love the wingless look and stock 92-94 body withthe RPF1's. What size tires are you running on them? Also like the turndown tip, considering a similar one on my car.
As others have said, time to drive & enjoy. After you finally get a boosted manual SC with good contact patches it feels like driving a whole new car!
Spent some time going through the build thread and this thing came together really nicely! Love the wingless look and stock 92-94 body withthe RPF1's. What size tires are you running on them? Also like the turndown tip, considering a similar one on my car.
As others have said, time to drive & enjoy. After you finally get a boosted manual SC with good contact patches it feels like driving a whole new car!
Thank you very much for the compliment! Right now I've got 255's on the rear and 245's on the front, I'd like to throw some 255's on the front, or go 265's all the way around with a little more fender massaging if necessary. I like the turndown too, thank you! But your car has a great look with your set up too.
You're absolutely right! This car feels like a whole new animal. Plus, something about a big body manual coupe making such great noises just hits me right in the feels.
I've been noticing my car starting to suffer from heat soak already with the warmer temperatures. I also realized that my mechanical fan is blowing hot air directly at the intake lol (I'm not sure what intake/fmic kit this is but I reused it from the donor car). A friend suggested a simple solution of fabricating a small aluminum heat shield to separate the intake from the hot air coming off of the radiator. First I made a paper template, cut the desired shape out of aluminum sheet, bent it to mount where two stock airbox holes are, and threw it in. I thought it came out kind of cool and you can tell a large difference in the temperature of the intake by simply putting a hand on it after a good beat down before and after the heat shield installation.
I've been trying to drive it pretty hard and tie up any loose ends or fix any small leaks that have appeared since starting it for the first time. I'm not sure what I'll tinker with next, but I've got a mountain canyon run with my name on it coming up next.
On my turbo E36 BMW I built a complete box around the air filter, seemed to help draw cool air. But what you have done should do the trick, the main thing is to give it a good source of cool air which you have accomplished. You can look long term at wrapping the intake manifold with heat tape, every little bit helps. Wish I was closer, that canyon run sounds like good times.
The shield you built should solve the issue Rudy! Good work!
Any open air intake with these cars should use a heat shield. NA-T’s and all GTE engines run hot under that hood.
I used an MVP Motorsports heat shield for MKIV Supras in my SC. All that was required was a tiny bit of trimming up at its top front to fit. But your solution does the same thing and is a lot cheaper
Thank you, gentlemen! I did consider building an entire box around it to seal it better, and may still do that in the future! However, the strange FMIC kit I'm running with the large black coupler makes it a little tough. Eventually, I'd like to redo some of the piping and route it a little differently, but hopefully this will help a little as long as the car is in motion and has some cool air as Rodger stated.
Well I've run into a strange issue the last couple of times I've driven the car and hope you guys may be able to help... I've done some searching but am having a hard time finding a similar situation. The car will intermittently rev up to 3000 rpms and just stay there. Sometimes if I turn it off and then back on it's completely fine, sometimes I turn it off and then back on and it revs right back up to 3000 rpms and stays steady. Resetting the ECU does not resolve it - but if I leave the key on, hold the gas pedal for a minute, and then start the car it usually starts, idles, and drives great. However, it will randomly rev back up to 3000 rpms and stay there. When this happens, the gas pedal does absolutely nothing unless you press it down nearly 100%, upon which it will rev higher slowly, and then drop back down to 3000 rpms.
Again - this is intermittent and seemingly random which eliminates something like a vacuum leak etc. Sometimes I can start the car, it idles and drives perfectly well, and that's that. Other times I nearly get stuck in traffic because of this. I have a bad feeling this could be a sign of a failing throttle body. Does anyone have any thoughts or input on this?
It sounds like an ECU related issue or Idle Air Control Valve related issue.
First thing is to get into testing the that idle air part on the side of the intake manifold per the TSRM (if we have a testing procedure in English for it).
There is also checking and re-calibrating your TPS sensor if you haven’t already done that (and is it a new TPS sensor you installed or a used one?).
The ECU can only be capacitor serviced for its potential repairs but I would rule out the other two first before getting into that.
I'm on my spare ECU now which is an Aristo A/T VVTI ecu - I've also got a JDM Supra VVTI 6-speed ecu which I'd prefer to use but had some issues with and was told by a local ecu repair shop that it's got a "bad chip". I might swap it back in one day for ****s and grins but have little faith in it after having it looked at. The TPS seems adjusted well and the car runs great/responds/idles as it should when it does run well. I suppose it could be a TPS failing or something on the like.
As for the IACV, I believe on this VVTI motor that function is built into the throttle body underneath correct? Ali said he's got another Aristo ECU, so I could bug him and try swapping ECU's again just to see.
I appreciate the input, you guys! Drove it today and it drove terrific but did start to rev to 3k once. Turned it off, back on, and it ran great the rest of the way home.
I would look on the IS300 sections that sounds like a throttle body issue to me ECTS-i or whatever the acronym is.
The vvti's have issues with the stock throttle body all the time from what I understand, even on stock motors which is why people do the bypass sometimes (you can really only get away with a manual trans, but I am guessing you loose idle etc..).
I don't think it sounds like the ecu but if you want to try mine just let me know, I am not really planning to use it anymore.
Ali - I greatly appreciate that sir! Is yours an auto aristo vvti unit? Gerry seems to agree as well. The symptoms don't seem to align with the ECU being bad but more with the TB. I'd love to be able to do the "manual tb conversion" kit that places like Driftmotion sell, however, it sounds like its really hit or miss on a stock ECU (I'm a manual trans on an auto ecu currently).
I'm torn between trying to find another TB, or riding it through the summer like this, converting it to a manual TB with the Driftmotion kit, and going standalone later this year to simplify my life and ditch the dbw TB.
I drove it again last night - it cold started great, drove it to my buddy's fine. Let it sit for 15 minutes, got back in, started it, and it immediately revved to 3k rpms and stayed there (at this time the gas pedal is completely unresponsive unless you mash the throttle, and then the revs will climb slowly). It did this three or four times in a row.. I turned it back off, key on (engine off), pressed the gas pedal to the floor and held it for 1 minute (I've read this procedure on Supra forums) and it then started normally. About 10 minutes of driving later - power completely cut out and the pedal was unresponsive again (the car does continue to idle however). Turned it off, back on, and it drove completely fine the rest of the evening (we went on about an hour cruise after all of this).
As always, your guys' input is priceless. These set ups are really hard to diagnose with the dbw tb's and jdm ecu's. Makes life a little tough on a guy!
Yeah I have the same auto aristo one like the one Gerrb sent you I believe. I have a spare 1jz vvti throttle body but that won't be helpful.
It probably is the throttle body, when I was looking at info for the bypass on turbo setups etc... I was surprised to see so many problem threads on stock cars even.
I don't think it was a super reliable system having the hybrid mechanical/electronic setup, those in-between toyota years clearly have lots of throttle body issues.
alot of them were never really resolved, or they swapped throttle bodies etc.. so don't have enough experience to say what is wrong with it, just have the feeling that something is wrong with it.
Like on the 2uz when they eventually went full electronic, no more cable etc.. those just plain work. same with my audi completely electronic and works reliably.
only other thing I can think of is maybe the tps was set too close to the "edge", maybe you can try backing it off a hair more from there.
you might get a slightly slower throttle reaction, but maybe the throttle body will be happier.
Yeah I have the same auto aristo one like the one Gerrb sent you I believe. I have a spare 1jz vvti throttle body but that won't be helpful.
It probably is the throttle body, when I was looking at info for the bypass on turbo setups etc... I was surprised to see so many problem threads on stock cars even.
I don't think it was a super reliable system having the hybrid mechanical/electronic setup, those in-between toyota years clearly have lots of throttle body issues.
alot of them were never really resolved, or they swapped throttle bodies etc.. so don't have enough experience to say what is wrong with it, just have the feeling that something is wrong with it.
Like on the 2uz when they eventually went full electronic, no more cable etc.. those just plain work. same with my audi completely electronic and works reliably.
only other thing I can think of is maybe the tps was set too close to the "edge", maybe you can try backing it off a hair more from there.
you might get a slightly slower throttle reaction, but maybe the throttle body will be happier.
Ali - I'll give that a shot today or tomorrow! I currently have it set to where my idle is roughly 550rpms and the throttle response is actually pretty good. If I back it off a bit, the idle drops to roughly 400rpms and the throttle response really suffers... However, you may be right! I'll play around before I do anything too drastic.
Otherwise, like you said, the long term solution here will be to ditch it or convert it to a manual unit and go standalone I think.
I'll play around this week and report back - may try a new TPS from Driftmotion since they have VVTI ones for a good price (for ****s and grins).
That is pretty low, you should be closer to 650-700.
Maybe you need to crack the throttle blade a hair more via the stop screw, and then lower the tps position to the lower spot.
You can do that trade off until you run out of adjustment to lower the tps or your tps is backed off fully.
It could also be opening a can of worms, so maybe just do one of those at a time lol.
04-19-20, 06:57 AM
