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My open diff in the SC does dual mark burnouts idk whats up with that lol. Sliding you can tell its open though.
We road race our SC300 bone stock with the open diff and it does hurt us slightly but really once you know how to properly set up for, turn in, and come out of a turn with the open diff it doesn't hurt you as bad as it would seem. We smoke some fast cars with factory lsd's so it's not all bad. Don't get me wrong, I wish I could run the torsen, but we manage without it.
Well - Ryan (@scsexy) was kind enough to have me by to use their dynojet yesterday. I’ve been wanting to do this as a baseline and just out of curiosity with this wonderful engine. It was a nice chilly day and the car ran great! 2jzgte vvti with a FMIC, full 3” turbo back, intake, and basically stock otherwise as far as I can tell. It typically hits 15psi and I’m still running my w58 trans. The pull was done in fourth gear.
It made a healthy 370 whp and 446 lbft of torque! These numbers are corrected (we’re at a mile high up here and true numbers are a little sad lol). That’s about the power I was hoping for, but I can’t believe the torque!! With how far the fuel curve is there’s a lot left on the table. However, depending on how this year goes, I’d love to start with a standalone, get the most of the twins, and then eventually throw a “smedium” single on lol.
Hope y’all enjoy! I can’t recommend Ryan and the guys at Finish Line in denver enough. If you’re local and would like to make some dyno pulls give them a shout.
Rodger - the torque definitely caught me off guard haha.
And I definitely agree... I need to start doing a little research into something that’s plug and play with the aristo harness, or something with a nice adapter harness...
I think that’ll be my next project after the cressida runs haha.
Two vastly different cars with two vastly different engines:
Installed these upper LRB (and lowers, not shown) cooling plates. Honestly, not super impressed with how they fit, but they will do the job.
The Cressida is coming along slowly, but surely! Full size LS radiator is in, intake, measure for driveshaft, etc etc. Still need to figure out wiring, fuel lines, etc. However, I can't help but smile when I pop the hood.
Had a local driveshaft shop make this up for the Cressida swap. They built it for a terrific price - removed the factory guibo on the LS side, and upgraded the rear joint on the Cressida side. This is officially the most expensive part on the car - I paid more for this than the car, and more than engine/trans swap lol. It was a whopping $550. Bills Englewood Driveshaft in Englewood CO is the absolute best if you're ever looking. It's overkill, for sure, but with the abuse this car might see from time to time Bill really sold me on the upgrade. Plus, I didn't even think about the fact that going from a 2-piece driveshaft in the LS to the single piece in the Cressida that the guibo with no ability to change angle wouldn't have lasted too long lol.
looks good!!! Bill knows his stuff and does quality work, Have had like 4 done there and all of them were right on the measurements and no funny vibrations
The Guibo is the rubber flange that bolts between a driveshaft and trans/diff. Typically only used in two-piece driveshafts due to the fact that one end of the driveshaft will no deflect. When going single the guibo had to go and the large aluminum CV section is in place of that so that it can articulate as the rear suspension moves!
12-01-20, 06:16 PM
