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Had a beautiful day here in denver and managed to get the GE pulled, installed the clutch, flywheel, and trans on the GTE, and got it sent into place thanks to a few friends giving me a hand. It’s a nice *** view.
I’ve got plenty of work ahead obviously, but this is a big chunk out of the way. I bought a 3” midpipe (manzo off of eBay for $94, crazy cheap, looks decent, and should bolt from the 3”down pipe to my 3” car back, denso TT fuel pump, boost gauge, etc that will call this turd home as well.
Looks really good! I wish my garage was large enough to do this in. I desperately need to pull my engine to swap my transmission.
Thanks man! Finally having the deep two stall is such a blessing! One could always use more room, but I’m very thankful to finally have a garage. On that same not, I’m hoping my clutch/flywheel/w58 all hold up ok lol. I just bought this ACT street/strip clutch a couple years ago and have only put a few thousand miles on it. So hopefully that’ll all last me a while still. Did go ahead and throw a new throw out and pilot bearing in while I was in there.
Does anyone know if the JDM 2JZGTE VVTI primary/upstream 02 sensor is the same for say a VVTI 2JZGTE USDM supra? Both are 2-bolts, but I keep finding a bunch of random info online that doesn't seem consistent. I'd like to replace mine ahead of time.
I managed to sell the GE motor in less than 24 hours, and the W58 disappeared shortly after that. For reference, I sold my complete GE motor with harness and ECU to a very excited gentleman for $500. The trans I sold for another $500 as I can't really vouch for its condition. I hardly see GE motors sell for more around town, and although I know first hand its an excellent motor, I wanted to sell it for a fair price to someone who was excited to have it (the new owner is putting into a 122 Volvo wagon).
Hoping to hop into the garage this weekend to start putting this bad boy back together.
^^ That is going to be one fantastic Volvo 122 wagon when its done! It's very difficult not to love those old Volvos
Just now seeing your many recent updates. The engine bay looks so good now! You're going to love that engine once you have everything else sorted out! Since you sold your W58 what manual transmission will you be going with?
If going R154 with the stock sequential twins I recommend getting yourself a good twin disc clutch. Even if you don't have 600whp+ from a good size single turbo those stock twins still deliver a powerful 1-2 punch that for me overwhelmed the stock single disc clutches full face I tried (copper-infused organic material, not Kevlar or another exotic material). The added bonus is that any multi-disc clutch will have much more torque holding capacity than you'll need for a stock sequential 2JZGTE (or 1JZGTE VVT-i) which leaves you room to grow if you wish.
Beautiful looking SC! You're almost there Rudy!
P.S. I am not sure if the 1996+ JDM 2JZGTE VVT-i ECUs are subject to the same capacitor issues that the early non-VVT-i ECUs can get. The horse's mouth on that is CL member Yamae (a former Toyota electrical engineer who is intimately familiar with their 80's/90's ECUs) and the thread he has been a large contributor to. I think it's called "LS400 All My Crazy ECU Issues". Keyword that with "capacitor" or "capacitors".
To get it serviced, Driftmotion currently isn't offering the service for the time being. I was able to get Tanin Auto to cap service one of my USDM 2JZGTE ECUs though. They just cannot guarantee it with shop car testing the way they can with stock SC300 and SC400 ECUs. The correct capacitors for any of our ECUs can be purchased from Digi-Key if doing it yourself with ESD safe equipment or procuring parts for any reputable company or servicer who will work on them.
Your responses are always so thoughtful, thank you! That gentlemen's project should be wicked cool, hoping I get to see it as it comes along. I'm getting very excited to see my car come together and I can't wait to get my hands on it this Saturday to start completing the installation. The W58 I sold was from the parts car (was bolted up to the GTE motor), and the GE was out of my SC obviously. Since my W58 shifts well and appears to be in better condition, I'll be re-using it for the time being. I'm also re-using my ACT street/strip full disk clutch that I installed a while back. It only has a few thousand miles on it, and I'm hoping it can handle the stock GTE until the day comes to upgrade the clutch and transmission. I did go ahead and install a fresh throwout and pilot bearing at the time of the swap.
As for the ECU, the parts car ran relatively well with the GTE ECU so I'm hoping that all is well inside. Once I get everything back together, start it, and hopefully drive it around I'll be able to sort any issues that may be hiding in the shadows. For now, I'm thrilled to have it set in place, and I absolutely can't wait to spend the next few weekends working on it.
Next up, besides the obvious hooking up of things like exhaust, hoses, wiring, etc, I need to install a new throttle cable (went ahead and bought a GTE cable from driftmotion that's supposed to work well in SC's), modify a few things to fit the FMIC, as well as the Denso TT fuel pump. I went with the TT pump over a Walbro 255 since it flows more and IMO should be more reliable in the long term. I also need to do the 12V bypass mod, correct?
I appreciate everyone's input and support! I'm thrilled and can't wait to get this thing back on the road. Keep your fingers crossed that no gremlins are hiding anywhere!
Managed to get a good days worth of work done on this bad boy today. All that I have left is to install the denso tt pump, gte throttle cable, a few little odds and ends, and doing fluids. She’s starting to look like something!
Ps - the Manzo eBay midpipe for the Supra/sc was a great bang for the buck. Looks nice, includes hardware, fits great, and bolted right up to my 3” down pipe and 3” exhaust.
Happy to help! It's certainly looking good! You're nearly there!
The W58 should be fine depending on how you drive on it. The gears are physically smaller than the ones in an R154 and less capable of handling the sudden shock loading of torque that comes with turbochargers. The shafts and overall design was never intended for a lot of torque and the only turbo engine the W58 was put with was the JDM Supra MKIII's 2.0L 1G-GTE I-6 twin turbo using a parallel setup and producing in factory tune a modest 203 ft-lbs and 235 hp. So even though that engine will get a surge of torque from its non-sequential turbos it's considerably less than what the sequential turbocharged 2JZ-GTE puts out in stock tune.
Just try to be "kind" to that W58 and it will probably last. If you repeatedly slam it with all that engine can throw at it the W58 will probably not last for long. Given that you'll have over 80% of your torque from a mere 1,800 rpm plus VVT-i and the generally addictive nature of spooling up turbos you'll want to be good to that gearbox But yes, for a time it should hold. Just understand that with a W58 you must take care if you want it to last.
And yes, you do need to do the 12V Bypass Mod. As we discussed over PM I strongly recommend the 12V Bypass Mod + a 30/40A relay and a 10ga direct wire from the battery with a 20A fin-line use with 10ga wires (marine/boat supply stores will have these in the correct wire gauge) in the engine bay end of that wire, run through the firewall, then along the area under the lower door jamb and then up to the SC Fuel ECU area where you'll hook up your relay that will give pump power and which will receive ON/OFF trigger voltage from the SC Fuel ECU itself. That way you'll have a safe fuel system and a full 12-14V directly powering your TT Denso fuel pump.
Also as discussed, with this engine and ECU you also have the option of using a Supra TT Fuel ECU with its capability for the high amperage load 9V/12V operation but that is an option and not required when the "12V Mod + Relay + SC Fuel ECU" method will do.
Those Denso TT pumps do last a couple of years longer when not always run at 12V+ but since they have a good 18-20 year lifespan anyway it is negligible. Supposedly 18 years at 12V and higher and about 20 years or so at 9V/12V. Not to say there aren't merits to using the Supra TT Fuel ECU for *some* setups and purposes (I am using one on my car...) but it is certainly not required.
The 12V Mod + 10ga battery wire with 20A in line fuse + 30/40A Relay in the fuel ECU area + SC Fuel ECU as safety control and pump relay trigger combination all make up the gold standard generally.
^ Thanks for the comment, and all of the help over PM Craig. Much appreciated sir!
As for the W58 - that was my thought exactly. I need to be a little more conscious about being nice to it, not launching too hard, etc etc. I'm used to beating it up pretty good when it was still hooked up to the GE, so I'll need to simmer down a little bit with the GTE installed lol.
Well, With some help from my good homie the 12v mod is complete, Denso TT pump installed (both were simple and much easier than expected). Filled all the fluids, bled everything, and she’s purring like a kitten. Only snag I had was that I didn’t realize you have to ground the igniter lol - after a quick google i figured out it was needed. The car is 99% back together and I’m really, really stoked on how well it went.
We got 10” of snow yesterday and couldn’t manage to get it out of the driveway. I’ll try and post a video soon!
Excellent, Rudy!! It's purring and whistling nicely!
Aside, I'm a little jealous of the seriously low traction surface you've got right outside your door to have some fun with, lol. Okay I do know you'd need Blizzaks on all four wheels to actually get around in an SC during snowy days but still, love the short clip with some wheelspin
Yeah, the fuel pump setup isn't really that difficult as you discovered. Pretty straightforward, just basic electrical and putting everything in the right places.
Once that snow thaws you'll have plenty of opportunity to try it out. Just be aware of what wet and cold condition traction your current tires have if you're not used to the power yet.
And as you said, your W58 should be fine with a careful hand. Just picture in your head that the internal gears and shafts are a bit smaller than they should be and ease into and out of power rather than slamming all at once. There are still no guarantees with boost on a W58 but avoiding really aggressive slams of power, power shifts, etc. should give it some time.
I'm looking forward to seeing the next stages! Great work!
Oh-- glad you caught it early to ground the igniter. That's a very important thing with these engines/ignition setups/ECUs. In fact, double check that your front intake manifold ground (it's annoying to get to and find at first but is easy once you know where to feel for it), rear intake manifold ground (very easy to get to), and the chassis and battery grounds are all in good shape. The igniter specifically uses the font intake manifold ground in the factory electrical wiring diagrams for any of the GTE engines and I think the rear is also tied into it further up in the wiring stream. This would just be a double check while you are killing time waiting on the weather to change as you seem to have solved your issue.
Craig, thanks man!! Thought you guys might enjoy a quick brap. I wanted to badly just to take it around the block but all of the snow and toasted rear tires from the summer don’t mix too well around these parts lol.
My w58 has been excellent so far, and like you said, as long as I keep a little bit of a light touch I’m hoping it holds up as well as it has thus far.
Great advice on the grounds... I’m fairly certain I’ve got everything, but like you said, the poor weather gives me a lot of time to double check EVERYTHING.
May I ask how you grounded your igniter? I’ve got mine bolted to a bracket to a stud under the passenger side under the dash. It seems to work ok, but if there’s a better location I’d love to know. Mine is wired and runs down with the ecu/body harness in under the pass footwell.
Definitely an enjoyable little video! I've been very patient to avoid full throttle fun with my car still but once my new clutch has a good 1200 miles on it I really want to have a little fun like that, haha.
My igniter is wired like stock for a USDM Supra on the driver's side (LHD) since my engine harness is from one of those cars. It's grounded through the stock wires in the harness to both stock locations on the GTE intake manifold and I have one of the OEM USDM Supra TT brackets that bolt it up to the side of the shock tower. There is a corresponding RHD JDM Supra/Soarer igniter bracket that will go onto the passenger side to the right of its shock tower if you can still buy one new or find one used.
I'd have to look up the Supra TT wiring diagram to narrow down which pin(s) are for the ground on the igniter but I believe it's just one. The location of it I never questioned as I just stayed as "stock" to the original wiring layout as possible and converted to fit the SC.
So yours is located inside the cabin in the passenger footwell near the ECU? I've never heard of that before but I guess it can work that way? Ali SC3 and Gerry would be able to say if there would be any electrical conflict to grounding in that location but to my knowledge there isn't one that I can think of. The main thing is that the ground has to be good and not putting anything conflicting back into the igniter through that wire. Again, don't worry about it unless you have an issue but inconsistent or inadequate grounding will probably make the igniter say "no bueno" which will make the main ECU throw a CEL Code 14... which will result in engine shutdown.
I had my own issues with that which I had to sort out but they turned out not to be igniter ground related but rather ECU capacitor and in one case possibly ECU damage related.
01-19-20, 02:17 PM
But yes, for a time it should hold. Just understand that with a W58 you must take care if you want it to last.
