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Not a bad number all things considered! That's too bad about the crank sensor - hopefully there are some sneaky ways to get some fuel in it and get it to do what you want it to with the distributor.
That is an intriguing setup. I wonder if it would fix my issue. I'll have to call DM to see what they say about that!
Originally Posted by RudysSC
Not a bad number all things considered! That's too bad about the crank sensor - hopefully there are some sneaky ways to get some fuel in it and get it to do what you want it to with the distributor.
Yeah it really sucks. Apparently, the shop got bounced around quite a lot because of the CAS sensor. They said that no one wanted to help them out, but they had a friend at Haltech who was able to review the logs and help them get it working correctly. Now, hopefully the fuel filter fixes the fueling issue (the current one has been on the car since '92 it seems) and we can get some more pressure to the fuel rail!
Sounding familiar on the distributor. Let me tell you what we had to do on the Megasquirt. We kept having sync loss like I assume you were. Like you said Haltech, MS, etc all usually like Hall effect and just don’t know how to deal with the noise from our distributor sensors. We found a posting on the MS forum where somebody took an original Toyota ecu apart and measured the resistance of resistors they had in the signals coming from the dizzy. They copied those and put them in the two signal wires coming into the MS and no more sync loss. So, we did the same thing and 0 sync issues. There were 4 resistors needed (two in series and two in parallel). I can’t recall the resistance values but maybe I will find the post in the MS forum and link it here. I mean it makes sense when you think about it. Toyota had to deal with getting a good signal and built the necessary filtering into their ecu. I was told Haltech was more advanced in their ecu design and could probably deal with the filtering needed via software. Sounds like maybe that was the case if they got it going for you.
Sounding familiar on the distributor. Let me tell you what we had to do on the Megasquirt. We kept having sync loss like I assume you were. Like you said Haltech, MS, etc all usually like Hall effect and just don’t know how to deal with the noise from our distributor sensors. We found a posting on the MS forum where somebody took an original Toyota ecu apart and measured the resistance of resistors they had in the signals coming from the dizzy. They copied those and put them in the two signal wires coming into the MS and no more sync loss. So, we did the same thing and 0 sync issues. There were 4 resistors needed (two in series and two in parallel). I can’t recall the resistance values but maybe I will find the post in the MS forum and link it here. I mean it makes sense when you think about it. Toyota had to deal with getting a good signal and built the necessary filtering into their ecu. I was told Haltech was more advanced in their ecu design and could probably deal with the filtering needed via software. Sounds like maybe that was the case if they got it going for you.
What a slick idea! They seem to have figured it out in software, but now I'm really thinking about converting to a Hall effect setup. Problem is that it requires the engine to come back out of the car for the oil pump to be changed... Or at the very least, I have to remove the bolts at the front of the oil pan that go into the oil pump, then FIPG the crap out of it.
What a slick idea! They seem to have figured it out in software, but now I'm really thinking about converting to a Hall effect setup. Problem is that it requires the engine to come back out of the car for the oil pump to be changed... Or at the very least, I have to remove the bolts at the front of the oil pan that go into the oil pump, then FIPG the crap out of it.
MS offers a timing wheel that bolts to the harmonic balancer and hall sensor that mounts on existing holes so it looks to be pretty simple. But if you are getting no sync loss you should be ok. Haltech probably has software filtering. Haltech has worked on enough of these engines in their own shop I am surprised it wasn’t already solved. Interesting.
Good news: The shop FINALLY got my car tuned and revved all the way out to 8000rpm last night
More Good news: The engine survived the dyno! This is very exciting for me since this was my first engine 'rebuild' and it survived!
Semi Bad news: Car made a peak of 340 whp and 350 lb/ft torque at 16psi on a Mustang Dyno.
The shop pulled up the data logs of the pulls and the injectors were hung wide open for most of the pull. They seem to be acting like 400cc injectors instead of 500cc. The only other thing that could be an issue is the dead times that were provided by osidetiger could be off.
Also, after the second pull and with 15 minute cool down between pulls, the intake air temperatures were 170 degrees. The shop says that the intercooler should be changed because it is not doing a good enough job. Now after driving the car today, the intercooler was much cooler, so I'm going to hook up my laptop and do some data logging on the street.
His recommendations were that I install a FFIM with fuel rail and 2200cc bosch injectors, then upgrade the intercooler to an 800hp unit with appropriate piping.
Any thoughts on this stuff guys?
Last thought: The car feels amazing. When cold, my Pirelli's break free in 1 and 2 when boost comes on. It feels and sounds very very good! I get tickled every time I get into boost...
That is outstanding news! It definitely sounds like its time for new injectors. As for the intercooler, what size core do you have currently? That will help us out a little bit. You don't want to go TOO big and have too much volume to fill before the air actually hits the throttle body/motor.
Great news. The car sounds fun. I still have the overflow bottle bracket for you.
On the intake air temperatures, where is your IAT located? I think the location can have an impact on the IAT output. Is the IAT close to the turbo or your cooling fan? I suspect you have already considered this, but just in case. I have placed mine in the tube just before the throttle body where the MAF/IAT used to be located on my car. Not sure if this is a good place or not as I have not taken my car in to a tuner. It is however where Lexus decided to put it as original equipment.
That is outstanding news! It definitely sounds like its time for new injectors. As for the intercooler, what size core do you have currently? That will help us out a little bit. You don't want to go TOO big and have too much volume to fill before the air actually hits the throttle body/motor.
I definitely agree on the injectors!
Here is the code size: 24"x7"x3.5"
Originally Posted by bbyatv
Marcus,
Great news. The car sounds fun. I still have the overflow bottle bracket for you.
On the intake air temperatures, where is your IAT located? I think the location can have an impact on the IAT output. Is the IAT close to the turbo or your cooling fan? I suspect you have already considered this, but just in case. I have placed mine in the tube just before the throttle body where the MAF/IAT used to be located on my car. Not sure if this is a good place or not as I have not taken my car in to a tuner. It is however where Lexus decided to put it as original equipment.
Talk soon,
Bruce
Thanks for holding on to the bottle bracket for me! I currently have the IAT in about the same spot that you have yours at. I’m thinking that the heat from the engine bay may be affecting the IAT readings. The fan that the shop was running was pointing at the intercooler, and the engine bays in these cars get extremely hot.
I lost the link, but you can often find comparisons for turbo sizes/flow, engine displacement, and what size piping and cores are recommended on turbo manufacturer's websites. That might help you to make sure your core isn't too small!
I think the lag/dead times that are provided for the older style injectors might be off, I'd suggest trying the standard settings for older bosch/denso high impedance injectors on your standalone (use wizard for base settings like on the aem?).
Dialing in lag times becomes important when dealing with ev14 injectors... but the older ev1 injectors are not as sensitive cause the lag time is so large so just use what is recommended in the settings for that style of injector. If you had the wrong numbers in here it would inject the wrong amount and if injecting too little you have to up the fuel map and at a certain point it would look like it runs out of injector like it is, not 100% sure but check the settings again.
I would think the shop could figure it out if they wanted, another member posted a dyno of over 500hp on the 440cc injectors.. so I would guess you are not "running out" of injector at 340hp.. and it is probably a setting or fuel pressure issue.
I think the lag/dead times that are provided for the older style injectors might be off, I'd suggest trying the standard settings for older bosch/denso high impedance injectors on your standalone (use wizard for base settings like on the aem?).
Dialing in lag times becomes important when dealing with ev14 injectors... but the older ev1 injectors are not as sensitive cause the lag time is so large so just use what is recommended in the settings for that style of injector. If you had the wrong numbers in here it would inject the wrong amount and if injecting too little you have to up the fuel map and at a certain point it would look like it runs out of injector like it is, not 100% sure but check the settings again.
I would think the shop could figure it out if they wanted, another member posted a dyno of over 500hp on the 440cc injectors.. so I would guess you are not "running out" of injector at 340hp.. and it is probably a setting or fuel pressure issue.
I think you are quite right. I'm going to investigate a bit more.
I did ask osidetiger for the correct settings. Perhaps they didn't have them right? Not sure, but I'll look again.
I lost the link, but you can often find comparisons for turbo sizes/flow, engine displacement, and what size piping and cores are recommended on turbo manufacturer's websites. That might help you to make sure your core isn't too small!
I'll look into that also. bbyatv may be on to something also as far as the heat from the bay heating the charge pipe up. Perhaps that could be causing the IAT to read so high? That treadstone manifold gets extremely hot since it has the exhaust gasses from all 6 chambers going into such a tight space. Add to that that I'm running a turbo-guard with no intake pipe and now the turbo is sucking in extremely hot air to start with. I'm going to try to remedy these issues. I think I saw that you created an aluminum heat shield for your intake to pull in cooler air. Maybe I'll look into something like that and data log it to see if the air temps go down a bit.
05-01-20, 10:56 PM
