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What does a “billet steel” alignment tool provide that a plastic one or a good centering practice using a bolt won’t provide? All you’re doing is centering the clutch disc in the pressure plate when it’s tightened against the flywheel so the transmission slides in the spline when you bolt it up. I suspect it provides the supplier a nice profit if nothing else. Am I missing something?
Anyway, glad to see the build is continuing to progress. Good work.
What does a “billet steel” alignment tool provide that a plastic one or a good centering practice using a bolt won’t provide? All you’re doing is centering the clutch disc in the pressure plate when it’s tightened against the flywheel so the transmission slides in the spline when you bolt it up. I suspect it provides the supplier a nice profit if nothing else. Am I missing something?
Anyway, glad to see the build is continuing to progress. Good work.
Apparently the plastic ones flex a bit too much for a multi-disk clutch?? I wondered the same thing, but I paid too much for this clutch to chance it on a $4 alignment tool.
What does a “billet steel” alignment tool provide that a plastic one or a good centering practice using a bolt won’t provide? All you’re doing is centering the clutch disc in the pressure plate when it’s tightened against the flywheel so the transmission slides in the spline when you bolt it up. I suspect it provides the supplier a nice profit if nothing else. Am I missing something?
Anyway, glad to see the build is continuing to progress. Good work.
Originally Posted by mrmj2u
Apparently the plastic ones flex a bit too much for a multi-disk clutch?? I wondered the same thing, but I paid too much for this clutch to chance it on a $4 alignment tool.
^^ Rodger, it's purpose is exactly what Marcus was saying. For twin disc clutches with multiple friction and intermediate plates where the flywheel actually becomes an integral structural part of the clutch assembly a cheap nylon plastic clutch alignment tool can flex just enough so as to not keep each of the discs properly aligned when installing. This is also why you don't want to hang the transmission unsupported off the back of the engine via its input shaft.
It really does not matter who makes the billet steel alignment tool so long as it is the correct spec for your engine and transmission combination. OS Giken's is very pricey but so is the one from Grannas Racing. A solid chunk of billet steel with custom machining will never be cheap but you only need to buy it once for your car.
Given the overall cost of any multi-plate clutch kit I see it as a modest one-time investment in a tool that will be useful for the life of the car.
It seems to me that the input shaft from an old junk 2jz transmission would work fine and you would not be out all that money. I know that not many would have the luxury of having an old transmission just laying around but this suggestion would be for those that do.
Finally got some motivation to get moving on my project again. I started by cleaning and painting my block and oil pan, then installing the oil pump and water pump. Next I got the billet timing tensioner installed and sealed and installed the oil pans.
Next I replaced the stock crank timing gear with a billet piece.
Since the top end of the engine is still in the engine bay of the car outside (in the freezing cold), I moved on to preparing the transmission. It felt terrible cutting into this brand new part, but it turned out well! As an aside, I think that I may be the first to run a SerialNine/Fisch Racing CD-Pro in a SC300...
This upcoming week, I'll do my best to get outside and start disassembling the old engine to move this project closer to finished.
The engine block and converted CD009 transmission look beautiful! Your progress is exciting, Marcus!!
Thanks so much!
Originally Posted by RudysSC
Add another excited poster to the group!! (me lol). Can't wait to see more Marcus!
Thanks for the motivation, I definitely need it!
Latest update: Last night my back was feeling better and I got some time to work on the engine. I was able to start undressing the old engine.
New studs and GTE HG installed.
Removing the head took much longer than it should've because I had a stripped cam cap bolt head. I had to use the old grease and drill bit trick to drill the head of the bolt out. Fortunately, I have three heads here at the house and so I have plenty of bolts to replace the stripped one with.
After getting the head off, I decided that it would be best to take it to be cleaned at the machine shop just in case some shavings made it into the valvetrain.
Dropped it off today and should have it back to get the reinstall started on Thursday!
Machine shop got the head finished very quickly, so I got some to work on the engine for about two hours last night. Got the head torqued, buckets reinstalled, cams installed and torqued, and cam seals completely installed and sealed.
Ordered some new stainless valve cover bolts last night and some gaskets. Will work on getting the front of the engine put together today and hopefully start working on getting the exhaust manifold mounted along with the new turbo.
Progress has been made. I got the distributor, turbo manifold, and turbo installed along with the oil lines. I also installed a T connector for the oil pressure sensor instead of a sandwich plate. I could never get my sandwich plate to seal appropriately, so it is gone.
I had to shorten the return line, it was originally setup for a tubular manifold and not this treadstone log style.
Next I moved on to the fuel system. I got the injectors (FIC 1000cc) cleaned and flow tested, then installed into the intake runners. I had to use aluminum injector bosses (driftmotion) and used Toyota FIPG on them to seal them to the intake. Also installed the FPR adapter into the stock fuel rail.
Lastly, I had to order a new woodruff key for the crank pulley. Got that installed and installed the Fluidampr onto the engine. Also installed a new-to-me power steering pump and a 240amp Alternator from JS-Alternators, which didn't line up correctly. Emailed JS and they are sending me a new alternator to fix the issue. Stand up guys.
Now waiting on a few parts. While I wait, I'll get to work on the AN lines for the boost controller and fuel pressure regulator. Will update more soon!
Real question for you all: Are coil pack brackets necessary? I am switching over to a R35 smart coil pack. The brackets that I've made have flaws. Previously, I've run VVTI wasted spark coil packs without a bracket and things were fine. What are your thoughts? Here are some pics of the coil pack and the platinum racing products boots that adapt them for the 2JZ head. They are low enough to fit under the stock GE throttle body.
Marcus, I think a coil pack bracket is more for mounting stability more than anything else to avoid some vibration or jolt over road surfaces wiggling any of the coil packs loose. Is there no aftermarket R35 smart coil mounting plate made for the 2JZ-GE head? Can your own bracket design be modified well enough to function even if it has those flaws?
I guess you'll probably be fine but to me it seems like a good idea to secure them with a bracket/plate even with just one screw/bolt each.
11-28-21, 06:06 PM
