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So you're probably asking why I haven't done the timing and all the essentials, the motor had a sticker on it stating it was done. The t-belt looked new-ish but I still don't trust it so I thought I would at the very least get the motor running in the vehicle before moving forward with maintenance/improvements. My main goal is to have a smoothly running stock vehicle to start from the absolute beginning like I just purchased an Aristo. All builds I have read and seen say to do all the maintenance out of the vehicle because its easier....yes it is....but I still don't care I want this motor running in the vehicle before I dump any more funds into it.
Back on topic, after reading articles, forums, watching videos, I figured out what a lot of you probably knew long ago that there was an ECU plug change late 01, 02+. It wasn't direct 'plug n play.' I called a few 'wiring experts' you guys probably know who they are but they wanted major cash for their harnesses just to make it a plug in affair with no standalone at that. I was quoted at the highest price of over 3k for a 'top of the line' harness. With multiple diagrams online I was contemplating doing it myself since I consider myself fairly good at figuring things out with guidance. I sent a PM to member Letsride and we spoke over the phone. He essentially encouraged me to just do it myself and just trace every individual wire.
I had all the wires from my USDM, all the wires from the JDM, why not just de-pin the entire F59 and F60 plug wire by wire, label them, take notice of the color codes, then look at the USDM E5 and E6 plug and all of their respective roles, then de-pin each wire from the E5/6 and put it in the correct locations on F59/F60. It took a little time but I got it all sorted out.
I have the non-immobilized GTE ecu, and I was afraid because of the plug and wire change 02+ that the GTE harness was plugging in everywhere except the F59/60 and yeah things plugged in, but were they in the correct order on the USDM body side? Also the GE harness had 4 body plugs but the GTE harness only had 3. What goes in that third from front female body connector? Letsride advised me that it was all the VSC/trac stuff but I still don't know for sure lol. Anyway, I merely only de-pinned/re-pinned E5/6 and F59/60 and I left the E5/E6 dangling after I connected F59/60 to the ecu.
hi,
when you swapped the wires, what wiring diagram did you use?
but it doesn’t give the total plug layout, also when you say f59/f60 what does that reference?
one more thing, what tool did you use to de-pin the harness, and did the wires plug right back into the new plugs or did you have to terminate them?
So you're probably asking why I haven't done the timing and all the essentials, the motor had a sticker on it stating it was done. The t-belt looked new-ish but I still don't trust it so I thought I would at the very least get the motor running in the vehicle before moving forward with maintenance/improvements. My main goal is to have a smoothly running stock vehicle to start from the absolute beginning like I just purchased an Aristo. All builds I have read and seen say to do all the maintenance out of the vehicle because its easier....yes it is....but I still don't care I want this motor running in the vehicle before I dump any more funds into it.
Back on topic, after reading articles, forums, watching videos, I figured out what a lot of you probably knew long ago that there was an ECU plug change late 01, 02+. It wasn't direct 'plug n play.' I called a few 'wiring experts' you guys probably know who they are but they wanted major cash for their harnesses just to make it a plug in affair with no standalone at that. I was quoted at the highest price of over 3k for a 'top of the line' harness. With multiple diagrams online I was contemplating doing it myself since I consider myself fairly good at figuring things out with guidance. I sent a PM to member Letsride and we spoke over the phone. He essentially encouraged me to just do it myself and just trace every individual wire.
I had all the wires from my USDM, all the wires from the JDM, why not just de-pin the entire F59 and F60 plug wire by wire, label them, take notice of the color codes, then look at the USDM E5 and E6 plug and all of their respective roles, then de-pin each wire from the E5/6 and put it in the correct locations on F59/F60. It took a little time but I got it all sorted out.
I have the non-immobilized GTE ecu, and I was afraid because of the plug and wire change 02+ that the GTE harness was plugging in everywhere except the F59/60 and yeah things plugged in, but were they in the correct order on the USDM body side? Also the GE harness had 4 body plugs but the GTE harness only had 3. What goes in that third from front female body connector? Letsride advised me that it was all the VSC/trac stuff but I still don't know for sure lol. Anyway, I merely only de-pinned/re-pinned E5/6 and F59/60 and I left the E5/E6 dangling after I connected F59/60 to the ecu.
Do you happen to have the values of the wires on the body harness? I’m currently on that part of my swap and I already go my 2jz values but I cannot find the body harness values. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.
Do you happen to have the values of the wires on the body harness? I’m currently on that part of my swap and I already go my 2jz values but I cannot find the body harness values. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.
I second. I only found the project gs pinout. Does anyone have a pictures of both diagrams with each pins value?
Man, life sure does keep going forward. I stopped posting because COVID steered my job duties at work quite a bit, but I never stopped working on this build. After I finished the install of the JDM Aristo motor, the car ran beautifully. It was idling smooth, driving smooth, and I could feel the power of both turbos working together giving the power kick in with boost. I actually drove it to work several times because it was running like a stock car off the dealer lot. I don't think I would have done anything differently as I gained some knowledge into swapping the aristo 2JZGTE into the later model years just by depinning and repining a few wires. The job appears intimidating at first, but its actually not that hard.
For those of you who asked 4 years ago where I found the pinouts, I just google searched and found is300 pinouts which appeared to be the same as the later model GS'
After the motor was done I plastidipped the whole car using a pro sprayer since I threw on extra body parts that were from my other GS's and different colors. It looked like this after the dip:
After I drove it around for awhile, I started to notice some smoke coming out the rear on cold start-ups. It was beginning to show signs of turbo wear, but I just kept driving it, after all, this GS was never meant to be a garage-show queen, it was meant to be a fun car that I didn't care too much about.
After some time, the plasti-dip was a pain to take care of. Birds had pooped on it and ate through the coating so I decided to peel it all off and have the car painted. Again, not a show queen so I ended up taking it to MAACO.
Ahhh, beautiful multi-colored GS, eh? Well, no more. It came out looking like this:
As the years went by, I found a 2002 white GS300 for dirt cheap, so I picked it up. It had the updated FULL Mark Levinson NAV system, HIDs and all. I threw some wheels and drop on it. Ended up selling it to one of my friends that got in a car wreck and needed a new car. The white GS came and went quickly.
I then found another blue GS, this one was a '99 which meant I could throw the GTE motor in it with no wiring difficulties as it would be plug n play. This thing was clapped out though and the motor was seized. Had it towed to the house. Bought it for a whopping $300.
.....don't worry, I'll get back to the GTE GS. Just wanted to provide the timeline of progress....
Bro!!!!! The thread I’ve been waiting on!! So glad to see you’ve been doing work! Love the progress man!
Thanks! Family comes first; all else is just me messing around in my free time.
Originally Posted by firelizard
I've been thinking a lot about how an Abflug lip would look paired with L-Tuned skirts. Turns out, it looks as good as I thought it would.
Its a clean look for sure, but I still thnk the rear is lacking something when you have front and sides,,,
Originally Posted by SoCal Cyco
What are the wheel specs on the blue one? Thanks
If you are talking about the photo after paint, those are MSR wheels. 19x8.5 square and 25mm spacers all around....high offset ...something 40+...beater wheels.
10-21-18, 05:49 PM
