mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

You’re going to have to add an aluminum pipe with a bend in it to hold your filter. That way you can probably get past the distributor. It’s just dangerous to run it without one in your environment. Hopefully you can figure something out.

vinyvin

With how much space the bov and distrubutor leave me. No filter of anysize would fit not even the stubby K&N or mushroom filters. It seems Im going to have to use a screen, save some money, drive it rarely, and upgrade to coils or something.

Theres also going the Electric fan route and using that space for a filter but idk. Kinda at a brick wall here.

vinyvin

Hey all! So, we got issues. Not bad issues just expected issues. Its the trans. My poor lil auto isnt taking the 264hp that well so I will be babying the car for some time until I can afford an R154 swap. I do have the TT auto still but it seems that to install it is going through hell and back plus I couldnt find much info on doing said swap. Also for those concerned about the no filter situation, we are looking into fixes. Seems like we will move the BOV location, and have a 15° silicon coupler going to a long K&N custom filter.

Thanks for reading!

vinyvin

Gentlemen. It seems I shall be going to coil on plug very very soon. I have a brand new distributor so i will stick with it and just pick up some plugs from an IS300. Any and all advice as always!

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

You can keep your distributor with the cop setup. Just pull off the cap and rotor and put a cover over it. Then your ECU will use the distributor to detect crank position and you can set timing.

That’s how mine is setup:

vinyvin

That is one nice exhaust manifold my friend. Also where did you get that cap? I was thinking of getting a driftmotion cover

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

I 3D printed it

vinyvin

3D printers are the future man we gonna start printing manifolds and stuff in our houses soon probably lol

vinyvin

So since the auto is dying on me. I got 2 routes to take. Put the TT auto in, although it will probably be difficult since I can find barely any info on how to do it. Or look into a manual swap. If any manual were to be picked it would be the W58 since they are a third of the price of a R154 and are what came stock. Question is tho, are junkyards the only good place to find them? And would I be able to use a part list for a R154 swap? I assume the answer is no to the latter due to the R154 having differences in shifter location and driveshaft I assume.

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

W58 will probably work for you, but it will break at power levels any higher than where you are at the moment. I wouldn't suggest that. Your cheapest route is to use the GTE transmission and add some transmission coolers to it like Gerrb is doing with his NA-T. Next best bet is to go R154, but that is going to be pretty expensive, most likely north of $3000 for all the required parts and you'll be running a 30 year old transmission... Last option is a CD009 swap... These can cost about $3000-$3500 also, but you'll have a newer 6 speed transmission with triple cone syncro's on gears 1-3 and it will handle more power (some say up to 1000hp).

vinyvin

I would do the GTE but the thing is the AEM v1 doesnt like controlling the auto. Plus theres very little guides on parts and stuff to even use the thing. The W58 should be good to handle around 3-400 HP no? And if it cant then thats fine, Im not going to be going higher in power for some time anyways.

Main things are to get the car on a good daily foundation and we are getting close to that. If we go the W58 route, it should make it easier to go to a different manual in the future. Plus I dont know how to drive stick that well yet so it would make a good leraning experience too!

So Mr.MJ, you think we could get away with using the W58 for sometime as it is the cheapest manual swap? To use the TT auto would require a seperate ECU since the AEM is being funky with the auto. Or do you think we should stick with using the TT anyways? If so could you link me some fourms on how to do the swap if possible? Appriciate it sir.

Thank you!
~Vince

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Vince,

My car is currently at a shop in Austin having my ATF built TT tranny put in. I'm also running a AEM-1. I'll keep you posted on what they are doing to get mine to work. I know it can
be done.

Shane

vinyvin

Thanks shane I appriciate it!

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

Guys , its not if it can be done , its how well it works via aem v1. alpha has tuned a few auto GTE for us down here and the auto don't seem to survive for long . The aem doesn't control line pressure well and pulling of timing between shift points needs to be precise . His Bandaid so to speak is to lower boost in first to second gear shift point then ramp in ..

This is why in supra world , most when running auto , go pro efi which really works like stock when tuned correctly on the auto

My suggestion if you really want GTE auto or auto ge (and the ge version can be fortified) is for GTE version use stock GTE ECU to control tranny piggy backed off aem v1.. too me too much headache hence one reason I switched to Manuel from day one ,furthermore , stick more fun with boost

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

I've talked to him a couple of times already about line pressure issues. Worse case he has a V2 we will switch to put in the car that I know will work but still not optimum. I contemplated piggie backing the factory ECU also but didn't want to go that wrought. My Boost Logic built factory tranny lasted almost ten years before it gave out on 19 pounds of boost and running full line pressure. My car stays around 500 to rear wheels so I think it will be ok and I don't hammer on it all the time when I do drive it.

Switching to manual for me is not an option since I want to stay auto. I also don't want to get in to 3-5K worth of new engine management.

Shane