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Very cool update! No problem again on the dizzy cover.
For your gauges, autoextrude.com sells an ashtray dual and triple gauge pod. I currently have one and don't like it as it places the gauges out of my eye path. This is most pronounced when I am shifting into 3rd gear. Digital gauges would probably be an upgrade for this placement as they are much easier to read.
My favorite location is the driver side vent pod. In my opinion, this and the dual pod that goes on the steering column are the best locations for gauges other than the A pillar.
As far as body work, the cheapest way forward would probably be to buy some straight fenders, trunk lid, and a hood from another car. You could also purchase a set of rear over fenders... The door is a bit harder as you would have to rekey it...
Very cool update! No problem again on the dizzy cover.
For your gauges, autoextrude.com sells an ashtray dual and triple gauge pod. I currently have one and don't like it as it places the gauges out of my eye path. This is most pronounced when I am shifting into 3rd gear. Digital gauges would probably be an upgrade for this placement as they are much easier to read.
My favorite location is the driver side vent pod. In my opinion, this and the dual pod that goes on the steering column are the best locations for gauges other than the A pillar.
As far as body work, the cheapest way forward would probably be to buy some straight fenders, trunk lid, and a hood from another car. You could also purchase a set of rear over fenders... The door is a bit harder as you would have to rekey it...
i stupidly drilled into my steering col plastic for the dual pod but now i just want the single vent one for a digital gauge. Off to find a nice condition plastic to replace my mistake.
i stupidly drilled into my steering col plastic for the dual pod but now i just want the single vent one for a digital gauge. Off to find a nice condition plastic to replace my mistake.
Oh man, that sounds bad. Im sure you can just find a junkyard SC and take the col cover out no?
Very cool update! No problem again on the dizzy cover.
For your gauges, autoextrude.com sells an ashtray dual and triple gauge pod. I currently have one and don't like it as it places the gauges out of my eye path. This is most pronounced when I am shifting into 3rd gear. Digital gauges would probably be an upgrade for this placement as they are much easier to read.
My favorite location is the driver side vent pod. In my opinion, this and the dual pod that goes on the steering column are the best locations for gauges other than the A pillar.
As far as body work, the cheapest way forward would probably be to buy some straight fenders, trunk lid, and a hood from another car. You could also purchase a set of rear over fenders... The door is a bit harder as you would have to rekey it...
so that ashtray pod set looks good. I dont plan on putting super crucial items there. I already have the col cover pods just need to install, that will be crucial gauges. For the tray it would be something like trans temp and oil temp or pressure. Stuff that are important but dont need 24/7 sight such as boost or AFR gauges. Do you think theres something digital that would fit in the ashtray area (with some modification of course, alot of cutting)? Like I want something sleek to where I can cover it with the lid. I love gauges everywhere but I want this car to be like a suprise when people get in. Gauges everywhere would just away that this car isnt normal.
Me and my pops are considering just buying a used auto to just plop back in and keep it in manual mode to prevent the ECU from downshifting at high speeds like last time. Plus I have seen em go for like 200$. Not a long term solution. Just a short terms one or until we have money for a full AR5 swap. Just thought I would let you guys know in case you guys wanted to chime in!
I appreciate all of the effort you and the contributors put into this build thread. I recently bought a '92 SC300 and will use the information here to help me to decide what route I plan to take with my car. I would've preferred to just pm you this however forum rules don't allow me to do that. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing it on the streets someday. I also live in Phoenix and work in downtown so you never know.
Hey all. So I had an exhaust manifold leak and decided to tackle it. I had those doodoo laminated gaskets and one melted fron the manifold coming loose. So I picked up some OEM IS300 gaskets as they look the same as the SC300 ones. I went to install them and to do so I had to remove the compressor housing but as I did so, I discovered I tightnened down the bolts too much, and the helicoils came out with them. Whoops. So thats either gonna be a DIY by me and my pops or a machine shop. On top of that, as I went to install my gasket, I noticed a gap in the rear gasket. Now, I want to run an experiment and see if the gap is caused by the crush ring on the oem gasket, and if its a good seal. Heres some pics! Old gasket with the leak in the rear cylinder Helicoils Small lil gap. Hope the quality isnt shot on the pic
Also, one more note to add. The reason we wish to give this experiment a shot is because we dropped a razor in the gap seen, and in the front gasket. The razor does not fall through and stops where the crush ring is. Thats why we think it might be okay.
thoughts?
Last edited by vinyvin; 02-19-20 at 08:40 AM.
Reason: Razor info
Hey all. So I had an exhaust manifold leak and decided to tackle it. I had those doodoo laminated gaskets and one melted fron the manifold coming loose. So I picked up some OEM IS300 gaskets as they look the same as the SC300 ones. I went to install them and to do so I had to remove the compressor housing but as I did so, I discovered I tightnened down the bolts too much, and the helicoils came out with them. Whoops. So thats either gonna be a DIY by me and my pops or a machine shop. On top of that, as I went to install my gasket, I noticed a gap in the rear gasket. Now, I want to run an experiment and see if the gap is caused by the crush ring on the oem gasket, and if its a good seal. Heres some pics! Old gasket with the leak in the rear cylinder Helicoils Small lil gap. Hope the quality isnt shot on the pic
Sorry buddy, i guess none of us thought of telling you that you may want to get your manifold decked. That is most likely the cause of your leak. The manifold flange isn’t perfectly straight.
Sorry to hear about your turbo needing a new set of threads. that sucks
Sorry buddy, i guess none of us thought of telling you that you may want to get your manifold decked. That is most likely the cause of your leak. The manifold flange isn’t perfectly straight.
Sorry to hear about your turbo needing a new set of threads. that sucks
We thought about the possibilty of the flange not being straight, but wouldnt that cause issues front and back? And not just on one cylinder?
We thought about the possibilty of the flange not being straight, but wouldnt that cause issues front and back? And not just on one cylinder?
it is really an issue where the welder may have applied more heat to that runner than the others. i’m not sure. hopefully it’s not your head that needs to be decked.
it is really an issue where the welder may have applied more heat to that runner than the others. i’m not sure. hopefully it’s not your head that needs to be decked.
ouch that last sentence gave me anxiety. What about some high temp silicone? This is only if thw head needs to be decked
It is worth a try. Those exhaust gases are moving at really high velocity, eventually you may have a leak.
Looking at your image again, do all of the runners have the extra bracing on them? That may be your source of extra heat that may have caused the warpage of the flange.
It is worth a try. Those exhaust gases are moving at really high velocity, eventually you may have a leak.
Yeah that is true. When I reviewed the old gaskets it was only the runner tho. All the other ones were fine. Maybe the OEM gasket wouldnt be the best idea for this issue then? Maybe a thicker more forgiving gasket?
01-02-20, 06:43 AM
