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Hope nobody forgets when shopping a replacement sub, you want a very low wattage sub, so the factory amp can push it (if you will run it from factory amp)...
coming feb 2019. Front doors and dash. A friend still in the car audio business got me a deal on these. I couldn't pass it up. this may delay later upgrades, but oh well.
great job! Infinity on the center would be too loud?
Originally Posted by Mitch1979
Update: I now have a pair of REF-4022cfx installed at the Left & Right dash positions. I used Metra 72-4568 "Speaker Harness for General Motor Vehicles" and cut all the plastic off for the receptacle down to the base of the pins.
Install required a lot more material to be removed than I thought. On the driver side I carved off a bunch of plastic on the windshield side of the opening, and a little on the steering wheel side. See pic.
Front Left
The passenger side required more modifications. I carved off plastic on the windshield side of the opening and also had to create a new mounting hole to pivot the speaker towards the front just a little - without this change the magnet of the speaker was interfering with the side-window defrost duct work inside the speaker cavity. To cut the new mounting hole I started the hole with a dremel burr, then opened it up turning a step drill by hand.
I also had to cut the 2 unused mounting tabs off of the speaker (dremel w cutoff wheel).
Pic below shows plastic at windshield side of opening removed, and red circle indicating where the new mounting hole was drilled. Metal bolt-retainer clip was replaced over the new hole location.
Front Right
Sound: I'm glad this upgrade has been suggested. These speakers bring a big improvement to sound clarity and detail.
Now I feel like the stock center speaker is a little too obvious sitting between the REF-4022s. Next I will replace the center dash w a Pioneer TSG1045R - I went with a 4 ohm lower sensitivity speaker for the center so that it remains quieter than the dash L & R positions.
I ran a before and after sweep using Room EQ Wizard - see image below. I am a *basic* user of this software. I am not running a calibrated mic, soundcard, or even an SPL meter. My goal was only to get a sweep measurement of before and after as a straight comparison. I have no idea what the actual true freq. response curve looks like.
Measurement is taken with bass/mid/treble at 0. Fade & balance centered. Microphone is resting on top of the driver's seat at right shoulder (used the Audyssey setup mic that came with my Marantz home audio receiver). Curves are smoothed (1/6 octave)
Light green is stock speakers.
Dark green is after install of the REF-4022.
Note the substantial difference between 9k & 15k.
Also, for anyone interested I took a couple sweeps while the stock speakers were still installed with each of the equalizer settings maxed out, just to visualize which frequencies were most affected by each setting.
For each curve all things are the same except the EQ setting.
Blue: flat
Green: max treble
Yellow: max mid
Red: max bass
For the corners, these look like a good depth although on the passenger side the magnet may still interfere w the duct work.
I think all 4" speakers will require some carving; the size of the L&R opening in the dash just isn't 4" all the way around. I have no comment on the center location - I haven't touched it yet.
Originally Posted by Jbreezie
great job! Infinity on the center would be too loud?
According to TonyN's post (also posted elsewhere on this forum), the stock L&R are 4 ohm, and Center is 5 ohm. I'm assuming that this causes the stock center to play quieter than the L&R. Since we don't have control over center with the stock HU I wanted to strive for a center balance either similar, or quieter than the L&R. Sensitivities: REF-4022 = 92 dB, TS-G1045R = 84 dB.
Hope nobody forgets when shopping a replacement sub, you want a very low wattage sub, so the factory amp can push it (if you will run it from factory amp)...
I might disagree with you on this. The watts rating would be maximum power the sub can handle. If you are running the sub off the factory amp, any sub should really work. I don't know what the factory amp output is, but it can't be that much. 50 watts? 30? If you plan on upgrading to a more powerful amp, you definitely want to consider this number.
I would also add that distortion is what ultimately what can kill a speaker. I could take a 1,000 watt amp and run my $19 4" speakers as long as I don't distort the speakers, they will last forever.
I think sensitivity rating should play a part in the decision though.
"Sensitivity — Sensitivity goes hand-in-hand with power to achieve high output. A sub that has a higher sensitivity rating requires less power to produce the same amount of sound as a model with a lower sensitivity rating."-Crutchfield
For the corners, these look like a good depth although on the passenger side the magnet may still interfere w the duct work.
I think all 4" speakers will require some carving; the size of the L&R opening in the dash just isn't 4" all the way around. I have no comment on the center location - I haven't touched it yet.
According to TonyN's post (also posted elsewhere on this forum), the stock L&R are 4 ohm, and Center is 5 ohm. I'm assuming that this causes the stock center to play quieter than the L&R. Since we don't have control over center with the stock HU I wanted to strive for a center balance either similar, or quieter than the L&R. Sensitivities: REF-4022 = 92 dB, TS-G1045R = 84 dB.
Those infinity's don't look any deeper than the cheap mbquarts I put in ,but the magnet is considerably bigger! that is a measurement the speaker manufacturers don't really share, so hard to tell what will drop right in and what requires mods. If the Focals I am buying don't fit, I'll do some kind of custom grill using a used set of speaker grills I bought
I might disagree with you on this. The watts rating would be maximum power the sub can handle. If you are running the sub off the factory amp, any sub should really work. I don't know what the factory amp output is, but it can't be that much. 50 watts? 30? If you plan on upgrading to a more powerful amp, you definitely want to consider this number.
I would also add that distortion is what ultimately what can kill a speaker. I could take a 1,000 watt amp and run my $19 4" speakers as long as I don't distort the speakers, they will last forever.
I think sensitivity rating should play a part in the decision though.
"Sensitivity — Sensitivity goes hand-in-hand with power to achieve high output. A sub that has a higher sensitivity rating requires less power to produce the same amount of sound as a model with a lower sensitivity rating."-Crutchfield
Actually, there are usually 2 watt ratings, being RMS and "max". Putting a high watt rated sub on a very low wattage amp (underpowered sub) will cause "clipping" which will ruin the sub. If it were as easy as just upgrading to higher wattage speakers, nobody would ever need new higher wattage amps. This is just some of the basic info taught when I was doing installs. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-CFJ49j...subs-blow.html
Definitely not! the 6.5" will go in the door by itself. I'll try to angle it up as much as possible. The tweeter and 3.5" will likely go in the left and right dash locations, but I would also consider this setup as a center channel and use a 4" speaker?in the left right locations. Not quite sure yet. It is really nice to have these factory locations to pick from, not all cars are this easy.
For the corners, these look like a good depth although on the passenger side the magnet may still interfere w the duct work.
I think all 4" speakers will require some carving; the size of the L&R opening in the dash just isn't 4" all the way around. I have no comment on the center location - I haven't touched it yet.
According to TonyN's post (also posted elsewhere on this forum), the stock L&R are 4 ohm, and Center is 5 ohm. I'm assuming that this causes the stock center to play quieter than the L&R. Since we don't have control over center with the stock HU I wanted to strive for a center balance either similar, or quieter than the L&R. Sensitivities: REF-4022 = 92 dB, TS-G1045R = 84 dB.
I like your idea of trying to control the volume/output of the speakers by sensitivity rating, since Lexus didn't give us any control other than fade front or back. Great Idea!!
I like your idea of trying to control the volume/output of the speakers by sensitivity rating, since Lexus didn't give us any control other than fade front or back. Great Idea!!
I wish they made it possible to adjust subwoofer output separately from the rest of the speakers from the factory.
I like your idea of trying to control the volume/output of the speakers by sensitivity rating, since Lexus didn't give us any control other than fade front or back. Great Idea!!
There was a shipping mixup, and I received the Pioneer TS-G1020S instead of the TS-G1045R - it seems I got a newer version of Pioneer's 4" speaker.
The G1020S have a sensitivity of 87 dB (vs. 84 dB for the G1045R).
I went ahead and installed it and I'm happy with how it's balanced with the L&R positions. The speaker itself sounds better than stock but not as good as the Infinity's I put in. It is quiet enough that it doesn't draw attention to itself and the tweeter seems to add just a little more detail.
So for anyone else interested in my opinion, I recommend finding a center that is at least ~ 5dB lower sensitivity than any replacement used for L & R.
12-26-18, 10:56 PM
