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1. So you did just a straight driver swap, same amp outputs from the original system? yes, that was step 1. I ran it that way for about 4-5 months before I installed a 2 channel amp. Another small improvement with the additional amp.
2. Ran it at 2 ohms, how was the output? Depends more on speaker sensitivity, but at least as much volume and probably tighter/cleaner than factory? yep, dual voicecoil sub ran at 2 ohms. Volume, output, sound, all much better. so worth the effort to pull the seat. don't forget to chase down rattles. its bad at first with the additional output.
3. Do you know if the non-ML sub is the same as ML? I don't. I actually thought the standard 8 speaker system with sub and amplifier was the ML system until I researched it. So weird that they even bothered to have the 2 system options so similar.
4. What is the diameter of the cutout, is it a full 8" and is there any/much room to enlarge it? From pics I've seen it looks pretty tight, but I've always enjoyed my 10s Opening requirement is 10" but could probably mount and seal it lower on the basket with a bit less opening.
Per Crutchfield, a current Polk 8" sub has a 7" cutout, man that thing was tight, but it did drop right in. I could see where a 10 is probably possible and not bad. The torsion bars may be the only thing that makes it difficult. You might try and find a sub with a small magnet, that would help. Most have a huge magnet.
I think the ML has an amp in the back whereas non-ML does not? If so, then you just used high-level inputs? Does the head unit power everything or do the systems have discrete amps?
7" basket opening -- yeah, that's going to be way too small, as my 10s need a 10" opening, maybe a bit less with some longer bolts and sealing, but from pics I've seen there's not much space left for nibbling the metal. Is there possible provision to add a second 8" on the other side of the deck? Would be great to double the driver surface area, could then cut down the power and no need to over-drive a single one.
I haven't been in the car audio scene for about 30 years, but am rather surprised at the low sensitivity of the subs now. As I recall, my 10/12" subs were always in the range of 91-93db, so dropping down to 83 is pretty significant. Although, won't matter much if the stock ones are similarly-spec'd, and for those with blown OEM they are massively cheaper.
I think the ML has an amp in the back whereas non-ML does not? If so, then you just used high-level inputs? Does the head unit power everything or do the systems have discrete amps?Non ML has the amp in the same place as the ML, in the trunk floor passenger side, rear. The input signal is some kind of fiber optic cable , or the like, from the head unit, only way to get signal to add an amp is high level signal.
7" basket opening -- yeah, that's going to be way too small, as my 10s need a 10" opening, maybe a bit less with some longer bolts and sealing, but from pics I've seen there's not much space left for nibbling the metal. Is there possible provision to add a second 8" on the other side of the deck? No way eh.... torsion bars are in the way. You would need to get rid of those and replace with hydraulic arms, etc... probably not worth the hassle. Would be great to double the driver surface area, could then cut down the power and no need to over-drive a single one.
I haven't been in the car audio scene for about 30 years, but am rather surprised at the low sensitivity of the subs now. As I recall, my 10/12" subs were always in the range of 91-93db, so dropping down to 83 is pretty significant. Although, won't matter much if the stock ones are similarly-spec'd, and for those with blown OEM they are massively cheaper. Anything would better than the stock 8". The speaker weighs about 6oz. and sounds like a giant pile of poo. I think Lexus was thinking cheap and light for weight savings. nevermind how it actually sounds.
I haven't been in the car audio scene for about 30 years, but am rather surprised at the low sensitivity of the subs now. As I recall, my 10/12" subs were always in the range of 91-93db, so dropping down to 83 is pretty significant. Although, won't matter much if the stock ones are similarly-spec'd, and for those with blown OEM they are massively cheaper. Anything would better than the stock 8". The speaker weighs about 6oz. and sounds like a giant pile of poo. I think Lexus was thinking cheap and light for weight savings. nevermind how it actually sounds.
Interesting, so do both systems have the same sub? If so, it sounds like a (relatively) easy upgrade for under $100, just the time involved to get to it.
I don't know for sure, but doing a little quick research it looks to be the same size subwoofer, but possibly a different part # and impedence.
Did some looking as well, appears that perhaps most/all the ML drivers are different, which may be the difference between the systems if the head units and amp(s) are the same? The sub appears to be at least "decent" compared to the non-ML (more normal-sized magnet) and the smaller drivers up front appear to have tweeters with them.
Busy weekend. Got the driver's door speaker in and outer door skin heavily sound deadened. Will update pics with the other door speaker later.
I "reworked" my center channel. The tweeter was sounding a little flat. mostly because I have not installed the tweeters from my 6,3, tweet component set yet.
My plan was to get some angle on the speaker and cut out the restrictive oem gril and cover with grill cloth. It went so much easier than I thought. It is a tough area to work in because of the angle, but I managed. The key to this was "removing" the mounting tab that appears to be for the upper display screen, but is actually just one of the clips for the plastic trim. It seemed unnecessary and was in my way. Bye Felicia! Now there is all kinds of room. Any depth speaker will fit in there now. I also lined the area with acoustic foam which made it easier to mount. it has 2 screws to secure the top. the acoustic foam just keeps the speaker from bouncing or moving. those 2 screws hold it in there pretty well.
Decided to comment as I'm finally starting to upgrade the speakers in my car. My current setup I have are my two 8" kicker subs in a vented box in the trunk. I just purchased a third identical kicker sub to replace the stock sub, and two 4" coaxial kicker speakers to replace the mids. I do have one question for you. Ive eliminated a lot of rattle in my RC, got hushmat just about everywhere, and I only find rattle in two spots. One in my gas tank lid cover, and the other on the third brake light on the rc. It stick off the back window the RC almost like a rear roof spoiler, it rattles the worst. I find that the rattle goes away when i press on it. Any ideas? Ive tried putting some tape in there to stop it but no help. With the third kicker sub I can imagine its going to get worse.
Sounds like some good upgrades. When and if I add an enclosure, not sure I'll keep the rear deck speaker hooked up. I will probably try with and without to see what is best.
Sound deadening is a bit of trial and error. Things rattle for various reasons: touching other parts, air trying to push and escape the cabin and also every type of material; plastic, metal, etc.... has a specific frequency they resonate/rattle.
for your gas lid, I am guessing its not the actual lid, its the closing spring mechanism (assuming its like the IS), as a long shot, try locking the doors. On the IS it locks the fuel door. maybe the lock mechanism helps hold it in place?
for your third brake light. make sure it doesn't touch the glass. if it does, you may need to get creative to modify the mount to move it forward a bit. If you think it is the light itself, you could try to fill the airspace inside with something to reduce rattle.
You may want to experiment with flipping a back seat down or cracking a back window to see if that helps with all the bass/air pressure trapped in the trunk.
So I can just upgrade the sub without having to add an amp? I already upgrade the front dash corners, front door and rear doors. I would like a little bit of bass. Thanks for this thread, it’s been very helpful.
So I can just upgrade the sub with my having to ad an amp? I already upgrade the front dash corners, front door and rear doors. I would like a little bit of bass. Thanks for this thread, it’s been very helpful.
Yes, Do it. You won't regret it. The factory subwoofer resembles one of the door speakers. Its light, cheap and does not produce much bass. You want to shop for something with a dual 4 ohm voice coil. Most 8" subs should fit, unless it has a really wide magnet, then it may hit the torsion bars.
FYI. The 17+ with a bigger screen will not work, there is a tab that holds the screen to the dash and it obstruct the aftermarket speakers.
what I did was put two of the mb quarts on the outside and move one of the outside speakers to the center, it barely fits and is louder since it has a built in capacitor which the orginal centers do not.
I think that top tab holds the plastic trim piece to the left of the screen. I removed it to place my Focal 4". I don't notice any loose parts or rattles. My car is a 15' though. I could be wrong.
I thought the same thing you did until I removed my screen and that tab was still there.
With that tab gone, almost any depth speaker will fit in there. tons of space.
Metra 72-8104 speaker harness plugs right into factory speaker connector, no cutting needed. $5 on ebay.
This particular Polk Audio subwoofer is no longer made, but any 8" 4 ohm Dual Voice coil Subwoofer should work.
I wired my subwoofer just like this picture.
I had quite a few rattles when done. I had about 2 square feet of sound deadening that I used to chase down rattles. Put in a variety of types of music, etc... while the car is apart to do this. The majority of my rattles was from the torsion bar holder thing in the center of the trunk area/rear deck where the torsion bars crossed each other. I used little bits of sound deadening and a zip tie to keep it from rattling.
The trim panel in the trunk will need to be modified for the magnet of this speaker, it hangs down farther than the stock one. I haven't decided the best way to do this yet, so I have that trim piece out of the car. the trunk light is just hanging for now. This should be pretty simple and barely noticeable when done......update-I have decided to leave the top trim piece off, it looks fine to me and the trunk light clips right into the metal hole in the rear deck.
I installed it just like in the pic and it sounds awesome. Now, I hope the amp holds for a good while, I won't be blasting it too much thou as I don't have the ML system.
05-17-19 | 09:45 PM
Opening requirement is 10" but could probably mount and seal it lower on the basket with a bit less opening.
I wired my subwoofer just like this picture.
