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These worked great. They are lightweight and a perfect fit. One thing to note is that because of the way they are constructed, there are gaps between the baseplate and the speaker ring. it is small flat pieces of abs plastic rather than one continuous round piece. The pictures posted, don't show this, you would need to see it from the side.
This will affect bass response and recommend filling this gap with sound deadening. Duct tape would work in a pinch, but won't hold up as well and not nearly as cool.
good luck!
These worked great. They are lightweight and a perfect fit. One thing to note is that because of the way they are constructed, there are gaps between the baseplate and the speaker ring. it is small flat pieces of abs plastic rather than one continuous round piece. The pictures posted, don't show this, you would need to see it from the side.
This will affect bass response and recommend filling this gap with sound deadening. Duct tape would work in a pinch, but won't hold up as well and not nearly as cool.
good luck!
Awesome, thanks for the info. I plan on sound deadening the doors so I'll make sure to add some where those gaps are. Appreciate it brother!
Tweeter pods arrived from Germany today. Ordered on Ebay. $85 shipped. High quality machined aluminum. They look really cool. I had planned on mounting them on top of the speaker grills somewhere, but I don't like how they stick out and look, so I think i'll tuck them in the little recessed space below the grills. I'll have these installed this weekend. Having 3 different kinds of grills will probably bug me. I'll probably use grill cloth on all to make it more consistent.
Last edited by sixbanger; 08-26-19 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: text
Tweeters mounted today. More details posted later
the tweeters looked good as is, but didn't really blend into the interior. I wrapped grill cloth around the tweeter and re-mounted. I like it much better now. I will still be wrapping the left and right dash grills too.
Last edited by sixbanger; 09-02-19 at 06:58 AM.
Reason: more pics
I think I am scrapping the bass tube idea. I am now eyeing up this area in the Trunk for a shallow mount 12" sub in a custom enclosure. Who really needs a spare anyway. I am partial to 10" subs, but the 8" does a pretty good job on the tight bass, but I am definitely missing the low low end.
Last edited by sixbanger; 09-01-19 at 07:07 AM.
Reason: add text
I decided to go all in on the spare tire well custom enclosure. If this works out, it will be pretty cool and really unlike anything I have done.
I am going to fire the sub down and actually bolt the box down using the factory spare tire bolt through the center of the box.
I have built enclosures firing down before, but never in a spare tire well. It is going to really be a tight fit. I would love just a little more depth to work with, but it is what it is. If I did the math right, the box will be approximately .73 cubic feet and the manufacturer suggests .75 cubic feet. I feel good about that. What I don't feel as good about is the speaker 1/4" away from the back of the enclosure and really only spaced 2" from the floor, but the depth of that area is only 6 1/4".
I could have used fiberglass to squeeze a little extra space, etc... but I saved myself the smell, mess, cost, etc.... if I do this right, I can just unbolt and take it out if it doesn't work out, or for long trips, etc......
Update 10-11-19. I am really loving how this sub sounds! even fairly underpowered and firing down so close to the floor.
Last edited by sixbanger; 10-11-19 at 08:25 AM.
Reason: add photos
I got the box mounted and bolted down enough to test fire it this weekend.
I am impressed with the sound. Very few rattles. This thing hits pretty hard and low. I am running it at 2 ohm and gain almost all the way up. Crossover set at about 80hz. I liked the way the 8" sounded, but it just wasn't enough for me and didn't play lower frequencies. The 8" is now wired back up to the factory amp again.
The idea to run a bolt through the middle of the box and use the spare tire mount "nut" worked great. It took me awhile to find the right bolt, but ended up with a 5" metric bolt with a coarse 1.25" pitch. It is solid as a rock. it does not move. Notice how it also fits under the lip of the trim. The cover would go back on except it has the jack part attached to it, as well as some padding. I may just cut a new cover for this using the factory one as a template.
I'll be tuning and chasing rattles for a bit, but then will start planning what to do for amplification. I am also hoping that "mechless" head unit options expand enough to give us a custom option for our cars during the time that I own my IS. Alpine's ILX-007 is close, but a single din shallow option might work in some kind of custom mount.
Good work brother. I finally got all my stuff installed this past weekend. It sounds good but honestly I feel like its lacking abit in volume and in bass If you kinda get me. I know it should have more in it cause I'm running basically the same set up as my old car, minus the dq-61 and new subs
I guess I gotta spend some more time tuning.
Any suggestions on rattles? I have a 2016 IS200T F-Sport, it has about 40k miles, and since I put my JL 12W6 in, I've been getting rattles all over. the ones that bug me I've pinpointed to the card holder slots in the sun visors, and also some where the map/dome lights are.
Any suggestions on rattles? I have a 2016 IS200T F-Sport, it has about 40k miles, and since I put my JL 12W6 in, I've been getting rattles all over. the ones that bug me I've pinpointed to the card holder slots in the sun visors, and also some where the map/dome lights are.
I haven't gotten any rattles inside the cabin. I sound deadened the hell out the trunk lid, behind the license plate, the rear deck, and even on the quarter panels behind the trunk liner. The only rattle I have noticed is my gas door, I saw that thing jumping around as the bass hits and found it to be kinda hilarious actually lol. Gotta find a way to stop that though.
I bought this cd before deciding to go down the path of adding a 12" sub. It identified for me the areas the system was lacking. For me it was low end, 60hz and below was my estimate. I am not using an RTA or other measurement tool. This is not music I would roll down the road listening to, but if SQ judges use it to test, it must be good. It may help you tune your system by ear.
I am serious about my rattles too. they drive me crazy. Each area is different on how or why it rattles. It helps to have various types of sound deadening material, foam, etc.. on hand to do some trial and error. Sometimes you just have to take stuff apart and essentially redesign how it is put back together so there are parts not hitting each other, resonating, etc......
I was able to get the factory trim panel back on, without any modifications. I had to remove the jack part attached to it for it to sit flush. I just put that and the other tools that usually go in the Styrofoam trays in the funky trunk net holder thing. I also bought fix a flat and a tire repair kit to put in there. Very slim chance I would ever have to use them, but nice to know they are there.
I also replaced the anti-glare screen thing on the display high up on the dash. Made a world of difference, my old one was very scratched. I'm not going to add this cost to my Audio build, although I do use music video dvds to show off the stereo occasionally. Someone did a nice writeup on the forum how to do this and I also found a youtube video. It was pretty easy.
PARTS, MULTI-DISPLAY https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/...134-53030.html $62.23
PN: 86134-53030
Metra 72-8104 speaker harness plugs right into factory speaker connector, no cutting needed. $5 on ebay.
This particular Polk Audio subwoofer is no longer made, but any 8" 4 ohm Dual Voice coil Subwoofer should work.
I wired my subwoofer just like this picture.
I had quite a few rattles when done. I had about 2 square feet of sound deadening that I used to chase down rattles. Put in a variety of types of music, etc... while the car is apart to do this. The majority of my rattles was from the torsion bar holder thing in the center of the trunk area/rear deck where the torsion bars crossed each other. I used little bits of sound deadening and a zip tie to keep it from rattling.
The trim panel in the trunk will need to be modified for the magnet of this speaker, it hangs down farther than the stock one. I haven't decided the best way to do this yet, so I have that trim piece out of the car. the trunk light is just hanging for now. This should be pretty simple and barely noticeable when done......update-I have decided to leave the top trim piece off, it looks fine to me and the trunk light clips right into the metal hole in the rear deck.
where is this sub located? It is hard to tell from this picture.
08-19-19, 06:38 AM
I wired my subwoofer just like this picture.
