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All most done (for now). Just to mention it again the exaust sounds AWESOME. I like options.
A couple of things just for documentation. In case I didn’t mention it before I had a oil leak coming out of the super charger input shaft seal. My buddy and I were brainstorming and he sugested it could be a PCV issue. Sure enough it was. So I replaced the stock PCV with a 2JZ-GTE PCV and boom no back pressure.
I plan to fabricate a bigger PS pump pulley that the sc runs off of. I would like to increase the boost output and bring in the boost a little earlier. Since I’ve upgraded the SC’s bearings I should be good to spin that V2 a little faster with out having to go to a smaller input shaft pulley. Only one way to find out!
I also plan to add some safety measures like a Setrab oil cooler and perhaps some meth injection. Perhaps a cam upgrade and finally some bottom end work. I do have to get this thing painted also. So much fun stuff to do. And as If I didn’t have enough on my plate I’m trying to start an SC project this year. Always wanted a manual and I think an sc300 is a good place to start. Hard to find a bone stock one that isn’t ridiculously priced these days though. Maybe I’ll get lucky..
Well as you can see from the picture the SC project has been shelved for now.
I am sticking with the 1UZ and currently in a manual swap. I will be using an Asin AR5 with an XATRacing adapter plate. The 1UZ bell housing will be used along with some other OEM bits. The clutch pedal is from a Mark IV and had to be modded to fit in place since these cars were never intended for manual transmissions as I’m sure most of you guys already know.
The clutch will be a SPEC single plate designed to fit the AR5 input shaft GM splines.
The shifter has to be extended about 4.75 inches to be able to fit in the stock shifter area and will be done so with a very nice piece by Drift motion. Shifter is provided by Cube speed and is another nicely made part.
the CMC is stock Asin for the 80’s land cruisers trying to stick with all OEM as possible. You know how we like to do.
there are several other items that are needed but if anyone is interested Forward Momentum on YT has very detailed videos that you can look at it you wish.
Did you buy the "bolt in kit" (I know not really) or did you make it work yourself?
There are bolt in kits avalable for the clutch (if that's what your referencing) but I didnt like the placement/mounting positions. So I got the clutch. In there myself
There it is folks,
it’s in there. Manual swap complete. Car is really fun to drive now. Complete with exhaust cut outs (a lot of work since I last posted) and the header and S/C work I am all most at the top level of enjoyment with it. Wow, at 1/3rd open, the exhaust note comes alive. At full open the V8/header/Vortech/resonator bypass just sounds mean. No fake, coffee can stuff going on here. And when I drop a gear and rev it? Ooof, very exiting time! Best damn mods I have done/experienced hands down!
Setrab oil sandwich plate and Mishimoto oil cooler install complete.
I managed to get the oil cooler in there but not with out having to weld a bracket to hold it in place.
I will be using the old oil tranny cooler for a power steering pump cooler also. And since I plant to spin the V2 faster I think I’m going to try and upgrade the internal bearing of my power steering pump.
As a matter of fact..
Swapping out OEM Torsen LSD to a CBS Racing 1.5.
swapping out custom Tein/swift FLEX coilovers to Airlift performance suspension.
just swapped out my OEM intake manifold to a Tundra manifold.
im behind for this season so I’ve been focusing on finishing 😅
Gonna be posting the LSD and the suspension up for sale soon.
So, here’s a rant and a warning for those of you “upgrading” to airlift performance suspension.
The rear suspension has a design flaw. There is no way to loosen the spanner nut from the collar with out removing from vehicle! If the spanner nut is too tight it will cause the threaded collar (where the shaft screws into) to spin. The rear air suspension for the second Gen GS is on a pillow ball mount. There is no way to anchor the collar to loosen the spanner nut with out putting into a vice! Plus, mine was so tight from the factory I bent the spanner wrench, I had to use a pipe wrench to loosen! Now I gotta “mad scientist” the ish to get it to work properly cause I definitely do not want to keep removing the whole thing just to adjust ride height!
As you can see I’m currently tucked. Not flush. But I can live with it for now. Front fenders have to be shaved and I might have to add bigger spacers to the rear to get close but that all depends on the suspension travel and what degree of negative camber I’m at. I don’t really want to sacrifice drivability for looks. But if I can compromise some where ima go for it.
So, it of course has been a while.
couldn’t finish the bag upgrade for the summer. Oh well. Main thing is it’s in there. Test driving/tweaking is next on the menu. After I get it dialed in. The next project is finally the rear bumper. Going for the FRS/BRZ defuser molded into the stock rear bumper with some other add ons. Oh, and I changed out the stock intake manifold for the composite 3UZ(?) one.
I do notice a more pronounced exhaust note which is a plus. Im just happy I dropped about 40 pounds off the over all engine weight ditching the stock IM.
10-14-21, 07:07 PM
Almost done
