I didn't realize you had it welded with that setup. You can get away with reusing that one a few times if it is the stock one as long as its not peeling etc.. you would probably notice a leak on your vac gauge though.
It's just something I noticed that I don't know how well it works, If I had to guess it probably isn't the root of your issue.

Yeah I am 50/50 on the newer FFIMs, I don't usually mind moving the battery but they are pretty large.
If it clears the stock PS reservoir though, I would like that as I am not a huge fan of the remote reservoir swap.

How long did you have the oil valve seal issue before that was changed? and that was after the last time the head was off right?
I would look down those spark plug holes and see if the piston tops are carboned up. bad valve stem seals can make a mess of the piston tops really fast.
Will show up as extra compression on those cylinders and it can cause detonation which leads to further gunking and misfiring, and the plugs will also look like that.. I have had it happen before with just rich mixtures even.
You would just need to do a top end clean assuming you don't want to pull the head again.
Maybe rule that out first, just seems like it should be working 100% assuming those ECUmaster cylinder phasing settings we were talking about a while back got sorted out.

 

Vacuum seems good around 9-10lbs vac.

I've got remote ps reservoir already and that works nicely.

Not long to be honest. I noticed it this time around of putting the head back on the original short block. It's got maybe 300 miles since i did the engine swap. Here's a picture of the #3 piston i bought one of those endoscope cams off amazon just to check out the pistons. I think they really started to wear out once i started driving it again and doing pulls. (or the fact that the head ran for a few seconds on the other shortblock with no oil pressure)

Doesn't use any oil now or smell like it.

And all of the pistons look similar to this but only two are fouling.


oh and not sure where i read that the heater control valve wont work on standalone, i hooked up the vac line to it and it works fine haha, finally cold enough to test that.

 

Has some slight deposits for 300 miles but doesn't look like enough to cause issues like that, out of easy things to check other than the intake/injector stuff and ecu.
Haven't heard that one before, heater control valve just needs vacuum and the engine harness connector plugged in

 

Looked at #6 today, seems fine as well but I do see some dampness on the piston. Injector leaking down?

I didn't run it for about a week prior to this picture.

 

How's the ecumaster black holding up . Still using Ben calibration for tune

 

I'm taking the car down to sound performance in spring, still haven't figured out why 3&6 are fouling.

Starts up and runs pretty well though, any sort of load causing fouling on 3&6

 

Dropped my diff off at my buddies to get a KAAZ installed. We went with the 1.5 way as per kaaz's recommendation for street car.

It'll be getting new bearings, seals, and poly diff mounts.

 

Awwww yeyeah - you'll love that KAAZ. I went 2-day and couldn't be happier with how it performs. Be sure to do their break in procedure by the book. I also recommend a quick fluid change after the break in, and another one at the next oil change.

 

^^ Very nice, silentkill!! I'm with Rudy-- you'll be very happy with it. And I had no idea they offered a 1.5-Way for our carriers! That's excellent news! Definitely take Rudy's advice on doing the break-in procedure exactly as they instruct you to. The last time I had my own diff worked on to swap in different gears with my OEM Torsen I was also told by my driveline guy to change the diff oil after 200 miles. I'd expect that when breaking in a brand new clutch type LSD this would be even more critical right after doing that initial break-in procedure.

For the Kaaz, it's a series of figure-eights for several minutes among other things, isn't it, Rudy?

 

My diff builder and KAAZ recommended the 1.5 just due to it possibly being sketchy in the rain haha. Not that I plan on driving it in terrible weather but I would like it to be as street manor'd as possible

I'll be sure to get on top of those fluid changes. I need to change everything in the car before it hits the dyno in spring. Trans\clutch is almost broken in.

So I ended up going with the Super quiet version which has WRC treated clutches, and doesn't call for any break-in.

I'm stoked to see how it performs! Couldn't just roll around with an open diff and tons of power lol

 

A 1.5-Way LSD is definitely easier to live with day to day in the wet as well as dry weather. Good choice! If I may ask, what is the Kaaz model and/or part number for their 1.5-Way unit? To date other than used old factory Toyota Torsen LSDs I have only been aware of the OS Giken 1.5-Way which is very expensive at $1,700+ not including their extra special recommended (and expensive) gear oil. Another 1.5 option for us is very good!

And no break-in! That's excellent! OS Giken says the same thing of their LSDs. Glad to learn of at least one other diff maker with a model that's also install and, other than some initial break in of the side carrier bearings... go

Yeah, I've driven on a 3.92 open diff for a while with boost and it was OK but required considerably more steering correction under acceleration and definitely not as secure and confident as when I got the LSD rear end re-installed. If I had significantly more power from the engine I would not feel good at all still driving with an open diff.

Once several years back a fellow with a 600whp V160 SC300 that had a temporary 3.26:1 open diff rear end gave me a ride to show me what the power felt like. It was FAST but man, was that car ever squirrelly at the rear. Other than more sedate and normal driving it absolutely needed an LSD to be safe when putting that kind of power down.

Looking forward to your impressions of that Kaaz 1.5 sometime soon!

 

I don't mean to rain on any parade with regards that KAAZ diff . Just sharing first hand experience here . If it was me , between KAAZ 1.5 and OS Giken 1.5 and I need to get another aftermarket LSD , I will take the OS Giken 1.5 anytime of the day . The KAAZ is a lot noisier . I have both in two different cars and about to take out the KAAZ for another OS Giken . There is a reason why well known motorsports like Grannas Racing would prefer to carry and sell the OS Giken.

 

I would agree with you but here's my thoughts on it. I've dumped a lot of money into this car in the last year so im trying to keep my costs down where i can so i dont prolong the project another year and my intention is to eventually get a ford 8.8 in there.

So with that in mind i think i can deal with a little noise. I was watching videos on youtube of clutch type lsd's and it doesn't seem too bad. Should be a little tamer with 1.5 way + super quiet version too.

I'll definitely do some video review on the whole setup once its done.

Here's the link to the 200mm 1.5 way.
https://kaazusa.com/product/supra-jz...5-way-dbt3020/

 

Almost forgot to post these. My buddy got into powdercoating so he did some testing using the GE parts haha.

 

Gerry, you know that I'm always interested in any new hardware for our cars especially when it comes to limited slip differentials However a good while back you totally sold me on the OS Giken 1.5 Way diff and when the time comes that my Torsen no longer suffices I believe that will be what I switch over to. Your experience with these says a lot. Other than the TRD 2-Way which has a different character I don't know of anything superior to OSG diffs. That's my personal feeling on what I will do with my SC down the road.

Nonetheless I am interested to know of people's experiences with the Kaaz diffs as well. At the end of the day even if the pros and cons of each make some better suited to certain applications rather than others I feel the more differential options we have for these cars the better. We don't have very many aftermarket options at this point in time.