97 SC300 - silentbob
#347
This is the one! taking my stinkin time on it. Walk away when frustrated, all new orings/gaskets. Didn't touch the oil pump, prefilled the oil galley.
I ought to make a NAT checklist for dummy's like me after all this lol
I ought to make a NAT checklist for dummy's like me after all this lol
The following 3 users liked this post by silentkill:
#348
No idea im going to let sound figure that out if its still an issue.
Engine is SOOOO close! I'm getting the front seal in the mail today so i can do the timing belt and all that stuff, then it's down to the pan (using the clean one on the floor in the back there), rear main, clutch and transmission stuff.
I had a fun time getting the intake studs off of this one, the rear one came out like butter with a vice grip, the front one i had to get a stud extractor for.
Engine is SOOOO close! I'm getting the front seal in the mail today so i can do the timing belt and all that stuff, then it's down to the pan (using the clean one on the floor in the back there), rear main, clutch and transmission stuff.
I had a fun time getting the intake studs off of this one, the rear one came out like butter with a vice grip, the front one i had to get a stud extractor for.
#349
#350
#351
yeah i mean i went through every possible solution, i believe it leaves it down to the tune. I leak tested the intake and it was also fine.
#353
#354
Yeah... Looking at online pictures of the manifold (basically a constant-diameter tube welded to runners), these are not the greatest when it comes to airflow. The stock GTE had a similar concept, but "similar" in fluid flow can be really different. Toyota had the resources to make sure their shape is sufficient. Air mass distribution to each runner can be all over the place, hence the fouled plugs (I'm assuming your ignition is ruled out).
Tuning can still deal with this by adding individual cylinder compensation (in this case (-) fuel percentage on cylinder 3 &4). Just not an ideal situation.
Tuning can still deal with this by adding individual cylinder compensation (in this case (-) fuel percentage on cylinder 3 &4). Just not an ideal situation.
#355
Yeah... Looking at online pictures of the manifold (basically a constant-diameter tube welded to runners), these are not the greatest when it comes to airflow. The stock GTE had a similar concept, but "similar" in fluid flow can be really different. Toyota had the resources to make sure their shape is sufficient. Air mass distribution to each runner can be all over the place, hence the fouled plugs (I'm assuming your ignition is ruled out).
Tuning can still deal with this by adding individual cylinder compensation (in this case (-) fuel percentage on cylinder 3 &4). Just not an ideal situation.
Tuning can still deal with this by adding individual cylinder compensation (in this case (-) fuel percentage on cylinder 3 &4). Just not an ideal situation.
#357
Thanks Ali. I swear ill get this thing figured out!
#358
I'm happy that you're getting ever closer to having this new engine installed and running! You're checking everything so I don't think you'll leave any stone unturned.
Getting a professional to go over your engine harness can be a good idea. It just takes some time if you prefer to do all of that yourself. Continuity test every single wire in the harness and double check all of the connectors and terminal ends to be safe.
I'm excited for you man!!
Getting a professional to go over your engine harness can be a good idea. It just takes some time if you prefer to do all of that yourself. Continuity test every single wire in the harness and double check all of the connectors and terminal ends to be safe.
I'm excited for you man!!
#359
Thanks Kahn! I just got the front accessories installed, oil pan, rear main and transmission stuff are left.
so far i've:
Cleaned and half *** painted block (cant even see most of it anyway lol)
Installed pilot bearing while engine was on the hoist
TT HG (cleaned block and head surfaces gently but not excessively)
ARP Studs
Checked valve lash (perfect, tight end of the allowed clearance)
Valve Seals
Pulled intake studs
Power washed the inside of my valve covers, re-sealed the baffles, installed valve covers
Plugs
Swapped over my timing belt set from the other engine (all this stuff is basically brand new)
Front main seal
All new water pump orings
Trying to be smart about this one too and marking all bolt's ive torqued as i do them.
so far i've:
Cleaned and half *** painted block (cant even see most of it anyway lol)
Installed pilot bearing while engine was on the hoist
TT HG (cleaned block and head surfaces gently but not excessively)
ARP Studs
Checked valve lash (perfect, tight end of the allowed clearance)
Valve Seals
Pulled intake studs
Power washed the inside of my valve covers, re-sealed the baffles, installed valve covers
Plugs
Swapped over my timing belt set from the other engine (all this stuff is basically brand new)
Front main seal
All new water pump orings
Trying to be smart about this one too and marking all bolt's ive torqued as i do them.
Last edited by silentkill; 06-22-21 at 07:55 AM.
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (06-22-21)
#360
That's a great checklist so far! Marking all the torqued bolts (with a grease pencil?) and generous use of the blue painter's tape is the right way to stay organized!
I think you've got this! It's just the usual long list of things to put into place and the usual wear components to replace with new or nearly new examples before you get ready to install it!
Whatever you decide to do regarding the engine harness just make sure it's gone through thoroughly. I don't remember... did you do your own harness wiring modifications so far?
I think you've got this! It's just the usual long list of things to put into place and the usual wear components to replace with new or nearly new examples before you get ready to install it!
Whatever you decide to do regarding the engine harness just make sure it's gone through thoroughly. I don't remember... did you do your own harness wiring modifications so far?