97 SC300 - silentbob
#391
It's the red component way back behind the black intake manifold, correct? Does it need to sit lower than it currently is?
From that wide photograph it *looks* like it's in a good spot already but if it's mounting is an issue given that this is a custom setup... I'd make a custom bracket
Get a cardboard box and cut from it a big chunk, then roughly cut out the bracket shape that I'll need including areas to bend. Draw on it, drill holes that are the right sizes, mark critical areas and gradually trim out what you don't need to get the shape just right and then test fit it carefully.
Then use some reasonably thick stainless steel from a raw plate sheet (any hardware store like Lowes will have some), trace the template with a permanent marker onto the steel and then carefully cut out the tracing with a cutoff wheel tool using the thinnest cutting disc available (be careful!! Definitely wear thick gloves, eye protection and some cheap ear protection headphones).
For mine I used an old shop bench grinding motor with stone wheels to de-burr the edges and round those edges. Then I drilled all the appropriate holes after following the template markings. A common variable speed Dremel tool with a small stone grinder bit on the end can also de-burr those edges. Rounding edges is easier with a bench grinder motor with a big 7" diameter or so stone wheel but the little Dremel tool can probably also do it in a pinch with a few extra stone grinding bits.
A shop vise and hammer get all the bends put into the right places (mostly!), then test fit and do primer and spray paint it in VHT 250F black or VHT 550F black depending on the bracket's location in the engine bay.
Use some 100-grit sandpaper on the finished but still unpainted raw metal bracket surface to prepare it for the primer paint coat.
....
I've done a couple of custom brackets so far where there was just no other good off the shelf solution available. Mind you I'm NOT a professional fabricator by any means! It's not too hard to do yourself. Just be careful around the really dangerous tools of course and use eye, hand and ear protection. And a respirator mask while spray painting.
Ultimately the more custom the engine setup becomes I think it's inevitable that we'll have to create at least one or more custom mounting brackets from scratch to finish the build in a clean way especially as the available places to mount things in the engine bay get ever tighter and fewer.
From that wide photograph it *looks* like it's in a good spot already but if it's mounting is an issue given that this is a custom setup... I'd make a custom bracket
Get a cardboard box and cut from it a big chunk, then roughly cut out the bracket shape that I'll need including areas to bend. Draw on it, drill holes that are the right sizes, mark critical areas and gradually trim out what you don't need to get the shape just right and then test fit it carefully.
Then use some reasonably thick stainless steel from a raw plate sheet (any hardware store like Lowes will have some), trace the template with a permanent marker onto the steel and then carefully cut out the tracing with a cutoff wheel tool using the thinnest cutting disc available (be careful!! Definitely wear thick gloves, eye protection and some cheap ear protection headphones).
For mine I used an old shop bench grinding motor with stone wheels to de-burr the edges and round those edges. Then I drilled all the appropriate holes after following the template markings. A common variable speed Dremel tool with a small stone grinder bit on the end can also de-burr those edges. Rounding edges is easier with a bench grinder motor with a big 7" diameter or so stone wheel but the little Dremel tool can probably also do it in a pinch with a few extra stone grinding bits.
A shop vise and hammer get all the bends put into the right places (mostly!), then test fit and do primer and spray paint it in VHT 250F black or VHT 550F black depending on the bracket's location in the engine bay.
Use some 100-grit sandpaper on the finished but still unpainted raw metal bracket surface to prepare it for the primer paint coat.
....
I've done a couple of custom brackets so far where there was just no other good off the shelf solution available. Mind you I'm NOT a professional fabricator by any means! It's not too hard to do yourself. Just be careful around the really dangerous tools of course and use eye, hand and ear protection. And a respirator mask while spray painting.
Ultimately the more custom the engine setup becomes I think it's inevitable that we'll have to create at least one or more custom mounting brackets from scratch to finish the build in a clean way especially as the available places to mount things in the engine bay get ever tighter and fewer.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 07-16-21 at 06:17 AM.
The following users liked this post:
RudysSC (07-16-21)
#392
It's the red component way back behind the black intake manifold, correct? Does it need to sit lower than it currently is?
From that wide photograph it *looks* like it's in a good spot already but if it's mounting is an issue given that this is a custom setup... I'd make a custom bracket
Get a cardboard box and cut from it a big chunk, then roughly cut out the bracket shape that I'll need including areas to bend. Draw on it, drill holes that are the right sizes, mark critical areas and gradually trim out what you don't need to get the shape just right and then test fit it carefully.
Then use some reasonably thick stainless steel from a raw plate sheet (any hardware store like Lowes will have some), trace the template with a permanent marker onto the steel and then carefully cut out the tracing with a cutoff wheel tool using the thinnest cutting disc available (be careful!! Definitely wear thick gloves, eye protection and some cheap ear protection headphones).
For mine I used an old shop bench grinding motor with stone wheels to de-burr the edges and round those edges. Then I drilled all the appropriate holes after following the template markings. A common variable speed Dremel tool with a small stone grinder bit on the end can also de-burr those edges. Rounding edges is easier with a bench grinder motor with a big 7" diameter or so stone wheel but the little Dremel tool can probably also do it in a pinch with a few extra stone grinding bits.
A shop vise and hammer get all the bends put into the right places (mostly!), then test fit and do primer and spray paint it in VHT 250F black or VHT 550F black depending on the bracket's location in the engine bay.
Use some 100-grit sandpaper on the finished but still unpainted raw metal bracket surface to prepare it for the primer paint coat.
....
I've done a couple of custom brackets so far where there was just no other good off the shelf solution available. Mind you I'm NOT a professional fabricator by any means! It's not too hard to do yourself. Just be careful around the really dangerous tools of course and use eye, hand and ear protection. And a respirator mask while spray painting.
Ultimately the more custom the engine setup becomes I think it's inevitable that we'll have to create at least one or more custom mounting brackets from scratch to finish the build in a clean way especially as the available places to mount things in the engine bay get ever tighter and fewer.
From that wide photograph it *looks* like it's in a good spot already but if it's mounting is an issue given that this is a custom setup... I'd make a custom bracket
Get a cardboard box and cut from it a big chunk, then roughly cut out the bracket shape that I'll need including areas to bend. Draw on it, drill holes that are the right sizes, mark critical areas and gradually trim out what you don't need to get the shape just right and then test fit it carefully.
Then use some reasonably thick stainless steel from a raw plate sheet (any hardware store like Lowes will have some), trace the template with a permanent marker onto the steel and then carefully cut out the tracing with a cutoff wheel tool using the thinnest cutting disc available (be careful!! Definitely wear thick gloves, eye protection and some cheap ear protection headphones).
For mine I used an old shop bench grinding motor with stone wheels to de-burr the edges and round those edges. Then I drilled all the appropriate holes after following the template markings. A common variable speed Dremel tool with a small stone grinder bit on the end can also de-burr those edges. Rounding edges is easier with a bench grinder motor with a big 7" diameter or so stone wheel but the little Dremel tool can probably also do it in a pinch with a few extra stone grinding bits.
A shop vise and hammer get all the bends put into the right places (mostly!), then test fit and do primer and spray paint it in VHT 250F black or VHT 550F black depending on the bracket's location in the engine bay.
Use some 100-grit sandpaper on the finished but still unpainted raw metal bracket surface to prepare it for the primer paint coat.
....
I've done a couple of custom brackets so far where there was just no other good off the shelf solution available. Mind you I'm NOT a professional fabricator by any means! It's not too hard to do yourself. Just be careful around the really dangerous tools of course and use eye, hand and ear protection. And a respirator mask while spray painting.
Ultimately the more custom the engine setup becomes I think it's inevitable that we'll have to create at least one or more custom mounting brackets from scratch to finish the build in a clean way especially as the available places to mount things in the engine bay get ever tighter and fewer.
Yeah i figured id have to create my own to make it nicer. its in a good spot im just not happy with the bracket looks wise.
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (07-17-21)
#393
I wanted to wait until i had it in my hands but my wiring guy sent me a teaser photo. I'm just waiting to get this, install it. Followed up by intercooler pipe, battery, and then starting it!
The following 3 users liked this post by silentkill:
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (07-24-21)
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silentkill (07-23-21)
#396
Me too! haha I think my first start order of business will be:
- TPS Min/max values
- Verify fuel pressure works, then swap the connector over to oil and verify that connector is working (cheater way to validate that input)
- Pray to the JZ Gods
- Crank for oil pressure with no spark/fuel
- Set base timing sync to ECU so crank timing matches the ecu while locked at 10. (play with the angle of the primary trigger setting)
- Fire it up, check for leaks, make sure AFR looks good, etc.
- Make sure transmission works
- Wait for Dyno Day in August.
The following 2 users liked this post by silentkill:
Bimmerbill (07-23-21),
KahnBB6 (07-24-21)
#397
Bled the brakes finally after 4-5 years lol Still some crud in there in the back portion but ill bleed it when i upgrade the brakes.
Torn on which method ill go for the fronts, the rears ill probably source some TT brakes.
Torn on which method ill go for the fronts, the rears ill probably source some TT brakes.
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (07-26-21)
#398
I started this thing yesterday! Couldn't get oil pressure pre-cranking so i just fired it up and got instant oil pressure.
have some massive vac leak to trace down as its idling at 1700 when hot.
have some massive vac leak to trace down as its idling at 1700 when hot.
The following 2 users liked this post by silentkill:
Ali SC3 (08-03-21),
Bimmerbill (08-02-21)
#401
#402
Terrific. I'm thrilled to see how this thing does on the dyno! Once this car is sorted it's going to be an absolutely killer street car.
PS - saw your instagram post lol what did you break on the vette already?!
PS - saw your instagram post lol what did you break on the vette already?!
#403
i think ultimately i need to pull the trans and reseal it or do i swap in z06 gear /shrug
#404
I suppose it happens!! However, it sounds like you're really enjoying that bad boy. It would be well worth the effort of a reseal and regear when you're up for it after all of this work on the SC lol.
#405
Yeah i think instead of z06 swapping it ill pull and reseal it. It would probably cost me $5-7k to change out to a TR6060 and z06 diff and i'm not about to do that lol after the SC investment.