97 SC300 - silentbob
#526
Racer
#528
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I could replicate my wiring stuff but it wouldn’t be cheap. Those ecumaster rotary ***** are $40 each. I could possibly use some cheaper rotary’s but the reason I used those was they were pre-setup on boards and I just had to solder in 5v, sensor ground, and the lead for input.
it would probably be in the 120-150$ range.
it would probably be in the 120-150$ range.
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joewitafro (08-08-23)
#530
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I probably would just make it one connector instead of two. I just did that so i could leave the lower portion connected and remove the console upper easily.
#531
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I could also just leave the ecu side unterminated so yall could integrate it into your wiring easier. Sometimes you have to pair up multiple things on 5v or sensor grounds.
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joewitafro (08-10-23)
#532
Racer
Let me think about it, After looking I may want to go with a CAN keypad style with 3 options per button type thing instead of 8 or 12 position switches; as that seems a bit much for what I need.
#533
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Yeah honestly after having it, I never use it. I can't really scale the boost down much, I run like 21psi full tilt and it has 14.5 base spring in it.
#534
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I realize it’s been forever since an update. It’s winter here now so she’s in her car cover cave.
Looks like my last updates I was debating going auto, I ended up ordering a new clutch, and the parts to convert my Tilton 6000 to a twin disk configuration. I think over spring here I’m going to start collecting parts to build a ford 8.8 so I can sell my 200mm before I break it.
included are some pics of the new clutch and some body work I did to prolong this old girl from rust, had a little spot under the rear trip that must’ve collected some water 🥲
bonus picture from SP dyno day 2023, made 600 and change on like 60% e. I also have low key plans on tossing a larger injector in and setting up a second feed line to the front of my rail directly from the second fuel pump.
happy new year yall.
Looks like my last updates I was debating going auto, I ended up ordering a new clutch, and the parts to convert my Tilton 6000 to a twin disk configuration. I think over spring here I’m going to start collecting parts to build a ford 8.8 so I can sell my 200mm before I break it.
included are some pics of the new clutch and some body work I did to prolong this old girl from rust, had a little spot under the rear trip that must’ve collected some water 🥲
bonus picture from SP dyno day 2023, made 600 and change on like 60% e. I also have low key plans on tossing a larger injector in and setting up a second feed line to the front of my rail directly from the second fuel pump.
happy new year yall.
#535
Pole Position
Lookin good as always man! I bet the twin disc will make a huge difference... I've never driven one but I always hear good things. Also, gotta love a nice 600whp - I bet that thing goes as good as it looks!
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Barbary (02-29-24)
#538
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A clutch installed turned into a rabbit hole...
PHR hoses fit to delete the heater core if you cut an elbow off.
Updates include but not limited to:
Deleted heater valve and ran PHR Supra hoses.
PHR 2" Radiator
Supra Turbo Fan/Shroud
New AN line and converted upper water neck to AN by tapping to NPT.
New fuel line return to end of rail
Replaced vacuum lines, Deleting my vacuum block since its no longer needed.
Replaced thermostat/gasket
Replacing HPS hoses with PHR ones.
Powdercoated intake, turbo and GTE covers (at the powder shop still)
PHR hoses fit to delete the heater core if you cut an elbow off.
Updates include but not limited to:
Deleted heater valve and ran PHR Supra hoses.
PHR 2" Radiator
Supra Turbo Fan/Shroud
New AN line and converted upper water neck to AN by tapping to NPT.
New fuel line return to end of rail
Replaced vacuum lines, Deleting my vacuum block since its no longer needed.
Replaced thermostat/gasket
Replacing HPS hoses with PHR ones.
Powdercoated intake, turbo and GTE covers (at the powder shop still)
#540
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