When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A shot of the Figs stuff on the rear, pre bar install with some new SS lines.
New re71R on the new wheels, looking sharp.
Here's after adjusting the rake and ride height and corner balance on the scales. Really happy with how its looking so far. This car doesn't need much to look brutish.
Ended up building a canister for the TPMS so I can swap tires at the track without getting all the alerts. These are always annoying to build. I had to remake it 3 times. Eventually i gave up on the pipe glue and took the time to build one that for sure wouldn't leak using JB weld.
I had put an aftermarket spoiler on but really wasn't happy with it. I decided to make something a bit more functional and broke out some carbon.
This was a huge PITA to do. Specifically it required some cleaver measuring to get all the radiusing right.
Side shot installed:
This is a very function>aesthetic modification, but all the same i love stuff like this. Increase rear stability, reduce drag win/win.
I made some carbon sills for to run as a side splitter down the length of the car, this will decrease lift and drag by maintaining a smoother stream along the bottom of the car. It also just looks cool.
I picked up a Greddy Titanium exhaust to save weight and make the car sound cooler at the same time. Its something along the lines of 16lbs overall, so a weight saving of around 50lbs, which is big. Its off the bottom of the car, so not as big of an impact on CG as things that are higher but none-the-less a step in the right direction.
A bit of a pain in the *** to fit as you have to cut off some hangers and remove some under carriage stuff and space some bracing- but not difficult you just have to take you time and chase down taps and rattles one by one.
Next was a water pump service, belt and radiator.
Its a good idea not to take chances with any of this stuff, its easy and cheap enough to just fix so there is no reason not to just get it handled and it will likely be fine for the remaining life of the motor.
I moved onto installing the coolers. I bought the RRracing kits with pre measured line lengths but I was weighing the benefits of element relocation as to not stack them on top of the condenser and radiator. There would also be an added corner weight benefit to moving at least the oil cooler into the front well of the passenger side.
I fit different exchangers I had laying around and did some back of the napkin math on flow and pressure drops due line length. In the end i did mount them all in front of the radiator, theres probably more to be explored here but as of now it would save me some headaches as far as figuring out upcoming splitter bracket and mounting.
Continued in next post....
Sorry I know this is a old comment, but regarding the Greddy Exhaust install (braces specifically) were you able to fit back the chassis brace? I was able to use spacers and reuse the tunnel brace, but the chassis brace itself wont go back on due to the low-hanging exhaust. I was unsure if anyone actually reused that or bought another chassis brace (thought about the F sport chassis brace IF it hangs low enough to clear the exhaust).
Sorry I know this is a old comment, but regarding the Greddy Exhaust install (braces specifically) were you able to fit back the chassis brace? I was able to use spacers and reuse the tunnel brace, but the chassis brace itself wont go back on due to the low-hanging exhaust. I was unsure if anyone actually reused that or bought another chassis brace (thought about the F sport chassis brace IF it hangs low enough to clear the exhaust).
Thanks for your help and very awesome build btw.
I have the orig ISF brace still. You have to space the chassis brace the same way as the trans tunnel brace IIRC. i had to zip tie on the under tray plastics at the rear brace because of this
I have the orig ISF brace still. You have to space the chassis brace the same way as the trans tunnel brace IIRC. i had to zip tie on the under tray plastics at the rear brace because of this
I appreciate that. I was thrown off when I saw how low the exhaust hangs compared to where the brace mounts. Will have to get that put back on as I feel naked without it lol.
In search of more front grip I also added some front canards off of a Dallara Prototype. Took a while to find something that fit the space but these were perfect. I sealed the edges to bumper for air leaks and positioned them to have the trailing edges match the front spat angle.
So I got the an OEM radiator and am sending it off to MASIV for them to build a Drop-in ISF spec track radiator. Covid is affecting the lead times and their engineer allocation but i'm pretty sure it'll be ready to test by the time the weather starts to get warm again.
Not much to do on the car until my next event with it on the 22nd. I was doing a nut and bolt check and brake fluid flush and noticed a slight amount of play in the Figs upper camber arms in the rear. I'm going to take a closer look and tighten everything down tonight. I bought rear wheel bearings and APR studs to swap in in case.
I'm thinking about selling my other racecar (CRX) and on a whim test fit the rear diffuser to see if its anywhere close. It is, in fact, just about a perfect dimensionally as it gets. In the night pictures below the mounts from the CRX are hitting the muffler and keeping it from raising up and in about 2 inches.
Here is ideal positioning..
If I were to do this i would want to build a flat floor lead up to maximize its efficiency. In that case its a good thing that I have all of the Arimid honeycomb drycarbon plate.. (the wheels have started turning in my head). I have all the material and know-how to do it i just don't know if I want to go down that path. I have been here before and know that flat floors come with their own set of PITAs
You can see the canard has some sort of large backing plate, that is bolted in behind the bumper, not just double sided taped on. Also it is sealed to the bumper, to maximize the efficiency.
I've seen "universal" kits that are 3M'd on, aren't sealed to the bumper, and end up folding down at speed, which negates any benefit.
This last weekend I competed in Global Time Attack Finals at ButtonWillow Raceway In a H22 Turbo Prelude. We made some improvements to the car from last year and knew it would be a better overall package to battle the class competitors.
We had our share of trouble the first day and some small things sprinkled through out but I was able to reset the Limited Front Wheel Drive record and be the fastest FWD car at the event. The crazy part is the data showed I had a rolling lap of 1:47.2 in the one session I was able to do consecutive laps, also the Riverside min corner speed was 110 which is one of the fastest mid corner min speeds I ve heard of through there. It proves the aero changes are working and we just need to develop the corner exit traction, power ramp and brakes.
As far as the ISF I added a gurney flap to the wing and am running a touch more wing angle to balance out the front canards. Ill be going to Chuckwalla Raceway this weekend to run CCW which has a big commitment bowl entry that needs all the highspeed balance you can muster. My tires are on their 6-7 event, so they are far from fresh, but well see how fast we can go with the new changes. I think after this event im going to try the 295/30F - 295/35R stagger to help with the rake and rear contact patch. There also some small stuff I want to look into like some play in rear upper Figs camber link i found the other day.
Heres some Pics of a few weeks ago at the same track, car is looking mean.
Where can a person buy a piece of carbon like you used for your side splitters? I need some!! Love the car. Such a crazy build but it works and looks great.
Does craftsquare make any mirrors for the F? Those would look killer for sure.
I agree, it looks like it has big ears. I have looked the only stuff I found was the EVS stuff. Questionable fitment, looks OK but I HATE not being able to see out of small side 'aero' mirrors. Especially if im driving this car on the street.
So drove the car 4 hours to Chuckwalla raceway this weekend did a full event and drove the car home again. Managed a PB of 1:54.7 on some OLLLD a052 tires. I'm going to pull some stuff apart and prep it for a hand full of stuff I have coming up in December
Took the ISF to ButtonWillow again this last Sunday. Trying a new tire set up. Im running 295/30 front and 295/35 rear. This sidewall stagger adds something like a 1.65% larger contact patch for the rear and increase the rake of the car which will help with the aero. I had to slightly raise the front end and re-corner balance and align. Im currently at .75 inch of rake at the jack points, which is where I wanted it. I also added a 1/4 inch gurney flap to the rear wing and back it off a slot.
Not super pumped on the looks of the staggered tire size, but if its faster, its faster. I'll also see how the wear goes not being able to flip front to rear between track days. You don't know until you try.
When I pulled the car off of the trailer late sat night I had the reoccurring issue where the dash wont read the gear that the shift selector is in- p0705 iirc. I have always traced it back to the neutral safety switch and climb under the car to re adjust it until it reads how i need it too. This is a mega pain in the *** because of the placement of the selector but after cussing and sweating I always got the car to do what I wanted. I just chalked it up to the solid trans mount shaking it out of its slotted adjustment. This time though after messing with it in the dark and cold till 1am I decided I would try again in the morning. I couldnt solve the issue in the morning either. I actually went to turn the car around to put it back on the trailer when it miraculously worked. I think the sensor is shot but I wasn't going to look the gift horse in the mouth- so I just ran it. It held together for most of the day until the last and quickest session, I unfortunately couldn't get it to work again after that and had to call it a day.
But in the session I was able to run I managed a few PB's back to back. Im almost in the 51's with the car now and will be once I sort out the understeer thing.
I pulled everything apart yesterday and dropped the transmission to get the selector off the car, why they didnt just make the selector stub coming out of the transmission a half inch shorter to allow the sensor to come off without dropping the trans is beyond me.
Only need a half inch or so, no need to remove the driveshaft but the exhaust and 02's and shields have to come off
Old unit out
New unit picked up. Going to finish this job tonight and hopefully have the car back together for my next event this coming Friday. Making some other changes and will hopefully go .07 seconds faster so i can get into the 51's. That is a legitimately fast time at Buttonwillow cw13 pretty astounding a luxury sprots sedan with 370hp at 3500lbs on street tires can pull that off.
11-04-20, 01:07 PM
