When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I see you have the same figs front upper arms yet you were able to pull off -3.5 of negative camber. How did you do that? I have mine maxed out and only got to -2.3 on one side and -2.5 on the other.
So why did you choose KW coils? I think they are generally considered comfort oriented for this platform, and I’ve also seen a couple cars on this forum with broken spring perches on ISF KWs. I’m surprised you didn’t go with a more track oriented coil.
So why did you choose KW coils? I think they are generally considered comfort oriented for this platform, and I’ve also seen a couple cars on this forum with broken spring perches on ISF KWs. I’m surprised you didn’t go with a more track oriented coil.
Maybe he wants to be comfortable as he goes around the track lol.
I see you have the same figs front upper arms yet you were able to pull off -3.5 of negative camber. How did you do that? I have mine maxed out and only got to -2.3 on one side and -2.5 on the other.
From my understanding you can custom order them at different camber specs (without the offset bushings) Maybe you just got a different type of set? It took a bit of fudging around to make it even on both sides. If i remember correctly i could potentially get -.3 more out of the drivers side but backed it out to match the max of the passengers side. When I end up on another (more sticky) tire i plan on revisiting these so I can get at least -4.5 max.
Originally Posted by Jwconeil
So why did you choose KW coils? I think they are generally considered comfort oriented for this platform, and I’ve also seen a couple cars on this forum with broken spring perches on ISF KWs. I’m surprised you didn’t go with a more track oriented coil.
JW- I got these are basically giveaway pricing from a contact I have, I was also able to pick them up same day, basically there were just meant to be a temporary solution to get the car off the lift and on the track until the Penskes show up; which should be any day now.
That being said, KWV3 are not bad, I campaigned my NSX on a set of V3's with upped spring rates to great success and my KW shod ISF with almost no set up time has managed some very respectable times locally. Sure they are a high-middle-tier shock but are still capable of going for a blast around the track. KW uses a much different approach in their shock that prioritizes valving over spring rates, This means two things, 1- they normally ship with rather soft spring rates. 2- They have an inherently better high-speed damping feel (read: comfort). You can optimize for track driving with swaybar settings and rates. I've spoken with KW reps a few times over the years and they've all said KW allows for up to a +10kg increase of rates without needing to revalve. Obviously when you get to the top end of the allowable rates spectrum tuning can get knife edged, but its still within a usable window. Honestly for anyone on a 'budget' i recommend the KWs all the time. Are they world beaters? No. But to be fair neither are the $8k TTX Ohlins of you don't have a race engineer on hand or the seat time necessary to make meaningful adjustments. As a qualifier my Spoon Sports CL7 racecar had an Ohlins sponsorship when racing in the UK, and currently still runs on an older generation of the Ohlins system.. needless to say I've gotten rather annoyed setting them up. I normally use JRZ's Pro series but have been impressed with the Penskes that are used on a competition car that I drive in a time attack series. I'm really looking forward to see if the quality translates over to the ISF platform.
My hesitation with the TTX Ohlins is the tuning. I don’t have a roadcourse background and really am just now starting to understand suspension tuning. They seem overkill for anyone short of a suspension engineer or very experienced racer. I was considering the Ohlins road and track because they will probably work better for a dumb guy like me, and they are allegedly quieter than the Penske setup.
Would you be willing to show a couple more pics of how you installed the quick disconnects on the front bumper? This is something I've considered doing but wasn't sure how much modification it would take. I hate removing the front bumper and I'm sure this makes it a lot easier.
Would you be willing to show a couple more pics of how you installed the quick disconnects on the front bumper? This is something I've considered doing but wasn't sure how much modification it would take. I hate removing the front bumper and I'm sure this makes it a lot easier.
I’d like to see these as well please. Also, who makes them and where to buy would be great.
Your going to love the Penske coilovers for the ISF. I have them as well and opted for 18k front and 16k rear. What spring rates did go with?
ISFPowered, how do you adjust height on Penske coilvers? Do you loosen up the the two all bolts on the perch and rotate the shock counter clockwise or clockwise to lower?
ISFPowered, how do you adjust height on Penske coilvers? Do you loosen up the the two all bolts on the perch and rotate the shock counter clockwise or clockwise to lower?
Yes the Allen key bolts are to prevent the perch from moving so you need to loosen them before trying to move it. Looking at the coil over from top to bottom it’s left to loosen and right to tighten. Then when you get it perfect tighten up the Allen key bolts but don’t crank hard on them snug them up then give it like 1/8 of a turn and your good.
Ill try and grab some pics for you guys of the quick disconnects. Currently, and temporarily they are being held on by Mini-latches you can find them on google and they sell them on Amazon. the Mini-latch are the name brand product, there are a few chinese knock offs that will do the job for smaller stuff but i would go with the real deal item for the things you need to be sure wont be coming off at speed (hoods, bumpers, trunks)
Once I redo my splitter structure and new Ducting for all the coolers the bumper will secure with two Aero-catch latches up front and on the ends with mini latches, but and doubled up to reduce bumper buffeting at speed. With as much aero grip as the tunneled splitter is going to create any air buffeting or air leaks between front lip will cause unstable pressures on top of the splitter that you feel it as inconsistent front grip at speed. Therefore its critical once I get all the pieces on to really make sure its not going to move at all.
Heres an idea of placement:
And heres some rough sketches that im refining for the fabricator:
Meanwhile while i wait for parts ive been doing small stuff. I had ordered an 2012 instrument cluster from a variety of different online distributors and dealerships only for them to back out of the order for some reason or another. Although alavable, it seems that even after jumping though all the hoops required these places still don't want to sell anyone a brand new cluster. Its asinine having to explain to these people why i want a cluster thats not from the year car that i own, then having to deal with their excuses of why then need my car to sit in their lot for three weeks while i wait for it to show up. I give up. If anyone has one or knows someone whole selling one lemme know, im giving up dealing with these dealerships.
Becasue it looks like I am keeping my 08 cluster i decided to do a few thing to make it more livable. I started with deleting warning lights that I will no longer need as well as adding shift light functionality.
I had a shift light led box made that would allow me to customize the light pick up range and final rev flash requirement for the car. I was able to hijack tacho signal from the back of the oem cluster and use some now vacant passenger knee airbag ACC power and ground.
I built up some carbon plates as a shadow box to allow the leds to be seen clearly in direct sunlight.
I wired it cleanly and loomed it down the column, the circular cut out on the top plate is adjustment to set the rev light pick up.
I also hard mounted my laptimer mount to the cluster surround so i don't have to run a cheapo suction cup. Suction cups work fine stuck to the window I just cant stand the way they looks
Making progress on the rear wing, I had the cardboard templates for the stands laser cut so we could do a final adjustment on height-to-roofline to make sure that the car would be GTA legal if I decided to enter it on competition in the future.
I also did some ARP studs and extended lug nuts. My stock ones had quite a few miles on them so this is cheap insurance. Braking studs at the track is not fun.
Fronts I took off the knuckle and pressed them out and in, for the rears I used an old trick where i hole sawed the dust plate to give myself access to slid them in. It would be fine to leave them like this but my dust sheld is going to be gone anyways, soon as i remove the rear axles for the differential install. I just didn't feel like doing that labor twice.
I also got some titanium skid pucks made for the splitter. these were machined in NACA shape to have the absolute least drag possible but still offer protection to the element. Best of all they make BRIGHT SPARKS!
And sort of lastly for now. Since I got used to driving this car as an automatic I was annoyed whenever I had to drive my Civic Type-R in traffic on my commute. I decided to get a GX470 for a daily and something that i could camp in at the track again. I really missed my 4runner v8 that i sold six months ago and have been longing for something that i could haul motors and stuff around in without having to drive my dually tow truck.
So GTA requires that the wing be the same height as the roof? Is that the level that wings are most efficient, and do you plan on adding bracing or structure to the trunk lid?
Yeah class dependent for wing height. The way I am building my cage and the things I keep in the cabin fit the car somewhere around street class, if I decided I want to do more cage and run a stickier tire i'll fall in limited class. Both of which require roof height wings; with a +3 inches for swan neck uprights. Wings are more efficient in clean air which typically starts happening around roof height anyways due to the down flow over a typical the rear window rake. Running a 0* AOA is generally enough but i built in some headroom into the height so i can adjust angle and still not run foul of the rules. The wing stands actually wont be touching the trunk at all, i have a lever arm worked out that will link directly to the cross beam that spans across the plenth boxes at the bottom of the rear down tubes. That way ill be putting the aero load directly on the rear suspension mounting points and sparing any flex due to chassis lag. The trick is doing all that and maintaining a usable, trunk non weather exposed, trunk- which i think I have figured out.
08-10-19, 05:45 PM
