When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So roughly a 75 pound weight savings for the roof. I’ve looked everywhere for that data. One thread estimated 125 pounds. Another, 100. Glad you ran down real numbers for us. You sir, are a gentleman and a friend!
How thick is the carbon roof? I’m just curious of that for structural reasons.
Willap1- Underside had a very nice carbon/kevlar weave that's yellow very presentable with no headliner. ill take pick of this for ya soon.
Jwconeil- Id say the roof is 1/8 thick, its structurally rigid due to the radius shape. Also Im not using any resistors since I yanked all the ABS stuff out including the ABS brain and dash lights.
ISF is on the frame alignment machine and the main hoop and plinths are tac welded in. You cant get much better cage fitment than that.. will be full tig welded when the rest of the legs are laid out. Seat fitting next- Doing a custom seat height and tilt since im a tall guy. Eventually the cage will be gusseted to the b-pillars You can see the kevlar underside of the roof in the pictures here..
For somebody that wants to go with a carbon roof and not track their car, wouldn't they need a more structural support to the roof like OEM? I'm not going to be a person to get it, but just asking. I am just fascinated about reducing weight to the vehicle since we have heavy cars out of the box.
The oem roof structure has a cross beam from factory (most cars don't) you basically just rebond it to the oem cross piece and not worry about it. mine is removed here for cage work but its going to go back in.
For somebody that wants to go with a carbon roof and not track their car, wouldn't they need a more structural support to the roof like OEM? I'm not going to be a person to get it, but just asking. I am just fascinated about reducing weight to the vehicle since we have heavy cars out of the box.
I will eventually do the roof and don’t plan to install a cage. The non sunroof version of the ISF has the same roofing structure and support as the sunroof version. It should be just as safe as the oem non sun roof ISF.
Some more details. Moved the cage back slightly so I could sit as absolutely as low and as possible and far back in the car. Redesigned the Plinth mounting points.
Almost all stripped down as of now.
You can see that I have gained like 9 inches of head room by redesigning the bases to protrude into the rear passenger footwell areas. Just mocked up for now for the fitting but I have some cool stuff going on here. Machining some stand offs to relocate the OEM shoulder belt provisions forward and down so they are in the correct spot. I think I mentioned before I will use the stock 3 points while driving the car on the streets and the harnesses only when on track with the HANS devices on.
Sitting this low and far back will dramatically lower and move back the cars Center Of Gravety (COG or CG) . You ideally want the CG to be as low as possible and as much in the center of the axles as you can make it. Also safety-wise sitting under the most structurally sound part of the car and as low as possible is a good idea in a roll over. Moving the CG down and back also helps body roll and transitional forces and is essentially the same as adding track width to the vehicle. Its these little things that really make the fine edge between driving a stock 'modded car' and a car that has a lot of small improvements that add up to something more than the sum of their parts. Its low enough that it will take a bit of getting used to clipping apex curbes but the pay off is huge. WIN:WIN
While I was at it I decided to take advantage of the Black Friday sales and pick up some new rotors. I was on the fence about running these on the car as the replacement rings are quite prices if you are tracking a lot but I decided that saving 6lbs of rotational weight PER WHEEL is just too good to pass up at the prices I was picking them up for. I have used Girodisk on a bunch of my cars in the past and have to say the quality is always second to none.
I also Picked up a set of 18x10 +35 Regamaster EVOs in Almighty grey. They are my favorite wheels of all time and have them on my NSX with a couple other sets that are in storage. It only felt right to get these for the car. I'd been tossing around tire compounds that I may want to run, and then randomly through a fortuitous series of events I was asked to help test and develop a new R-comp from a major manufacture that is being designed for a 2020 release. This is going to be a great opportunity to develop the car around a specific tire. Looking forward to it.
Awesome man! I continue to be jealous of your build!
As far as wheels go did you do any measurement or otherwise thinking to try and maximize tire size and that is how you came up with that size/offset or are you kind of winging it?
Awesome man! I continue to be jealous of your build!
As far as wheels go did you do any measurement or otherwise thinking to try and maximize tire size and that is how you came up with that size/offset or are you kind of winging it?
I have 9.5 +40 now and based on my alignment specs and tires widths I run now they should be fine. Also, Im a firm believer in getting the wheel and tire combo you want and making everything else fit around them. I am also not shy about pulling the hell out of the fenders or flares to gain clearance. That being said i'm running 18KG springs, am not to low and have -4 camber up front. I think itll be fine.
You must be tall. I put my Tillett in on a low rail and couldn’t even see over the dash. Granted, the mounting points on the ISF aren’t even and it creates an aggressive backwards tilt. Did you modify the planted brackets or ISF floor? I’m tempted to return my brackets and request taller ones so that I can tilt my seat further up.
11-21-19 | 04:11 AM
