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hey illwillem I had my ISF stolen and was stripped wanted to know if you have headliner for sale ? Center console
I literally cut all that stuff up and threw it in the dumpster, sorry. The only stuff I have now that may help you is a rear trunk , hood, sideskirts, , front and rear crash beams.
Lots more stuff happening but ill wait until Im able to get pics to go with the text. In the meanwhile 18x10 square Regamasters Evo racing spec. Light weight and strong wrapped in 295 square AR1. This thing should have grip for days now.
Lots more stuff happening but ill wait until Im able to get pics to go with the text. In the meanwhile 18x10 square Regamasters Evo racing spec. Light weight and strong wrapped in 295 square AR1. This thing should have grip for days now.
Not knocking them by any means but just curious... what made you pick AR1s? Do you think they will truly be the best performer? Was it a sizing thing? Or a pricing thing? Or maybe some combination of the aforementioned?
Not knocking them by any means but just curious... what made you pick AR1s? Do you think they will truly be the best performer? Was it a sizing thing? Or a pricing thing? Or maybe some combination of the aforementioned?
All of the above.
These are the US spec ar1 as opposed to the UK ones (different compounds and reviews are generally for the UK ones which kinda suck) I wanted a tire i could drive to and from the track on and R1's, RR's and Hoosiers go away on about 5 sessions excluding commute. I have run re71r and a052, both quick- a052's being VERY quick but peaky and last only about 2 laps per session and 8 sessions total when really pushing the car around. Nt01's are a solid choice for speed and longevity (and what i have on the car now) but the AR1 are about a second and a half faster at Butonwillow and have generally the same life. I also was having trouble finding an actual 295 for the 10" wheel. These run just undersized, so they equate to about a 285 Nt01 for comparison. They also come in the ideal sidewall height unlike the a052. I get them pretty cheap too, the only downside I can tell is the tire weight due to a super beefy sidewall construction for wheel 2 wheel racing. They are apparently revising this in the coming year. Its not insane weight; like a lb at most over the competition- but anything lighter is better.
These are the US spec ar1 as opposed to the UK ones (different compounds and reviews are generally for the UK ones which kinda suck) I wanted a tire i could drive to and from the track on and R1's, RR's and Hoosiers go away on about 5 sessions excluding commute. I have run re71r and a052, both quick- a052's being VERY quick but peaky and last only about 2 laps per session and 8 sessions total when really pushing the car around. Nt01's are a solid choice for speed and longevity (and what i have on the car now) but the AR1 are about a second and a half faster at Butonwillow and have generally the same life. I also was having trouble finding an actual 295 for the 10" wheel. These run just undersized, so they equate to about a 285 Nt01 for comparison. They also come in the ideal sidewall height unlike the a052. I get them pretty cheap too, the only downside I can tell is the tire weight due to a super beefy sidewall construction for wheel 2 wheel racing. They are apparently revising this in the coming year. Its not insane weight; like a lb at most over the competition- but anything lighter is better.
Very interesting. Thanks for the info. Wasn't expecting you to be driving them on the street due to how hardcore the build seems but I totally understand.
I'm trying to decide on a tire that can pull dual duty as well, although I'm sure mine will see a lot more street miles than yours and ideally I'd stay at 200+tw for autox classing reasons. RE71R has been at the top of my list but looks like I might have to reconsider the A052 after your post.
Anyways, so how much life are you hoping/expecting to get out of the AR1s?
Very interesting. Thanks for the info. Wasn't expecting you to be driving them on the street due to how hardcore the build seems but I totally understand.
I'm trying to decide on a tire that can pull dual duty as well, although I'm sure mine will see a lot more street miles than yours and ideally I'd stay at 200+tw for autox classing reasons. RE71R has been at the top of my list but looks like I might have to reconsider the A052 after your post.
Anyways, so how much life are you hoping/expecting to get out of the AR1s?
When I say street driving i mean the occasional Friday to work when dry and to and from the racetrack. The car will still have stereo, A/C and heat as well as bluetooth and back up camera- it will be very possible to use the car as transportation as needed. That being said i for years dailied my s2000s with a048 and Nt01's its really not that bad.
A052 are (Hand quote) "200tw" (hand quote). They most definitely are not. nor is any of the new breed of "200tw" as there is no third party testing on UTG ratings, its basically whatever they feel like printing on the tire. Me and about 7 other people that track very frequently pulled data together (like actual number data) from our racecars. The A052 has the same peak G as a Hoosier a7 on the first two flying laps but would fall off by about the third depending on car weight and power levels. this peak g and laptime fell off gradually as the tire was used though about 8 sessions. They are fast but they do not last that long and are rather expensive. Nearly the same as actual Hoosiers without the consecutive lap life. Overall life is about similar though since the Hoosier will cord by the time you've run the life outta the A052's even if there is still meat on it. 52's can also be used in the wet. Basically if you are going for overall lap speed and don't need life get a a7 as they are lighter. If you need to run a 200tw tire because of series rules get the a052. re71 are similar but with less peak grip. still a VERY fast tire. I would say that both are faster than the nt01 as its an old compound, and the re71 is similar to the ar1, a052 and hoosier a7 are fastest by quite a margin.
When I say street driving i mean the occasional Friday to work when dry and to and from the racetrack. The car will still have stereo, A/C and heat as well as bluetooth and back up camera- it will be very possible to use the car as transportation as needed. That being said i for years dailied my s2000s with a048 and Nt01's its really not that bad.
A052 are (Hand quote) "200tw" (hand quote). They most definitely are not. nor is any of the new breed of "200tw" as there is no third party testing on UTG ratings, its basically whatever they feel like printing on the tire. Me and about 7 other people that track very frequently pulled data together (like actual number data) from our racecars. The A052 has the same peak G as a Hoosier a7 on the first two flying laps but would fall off by about the third depending on car weight and power levels. this peak g and laptime fell off gradually as the tire was used though about 8 sessions. They are fast but they do not last that long and are rather expensive. Nearly the same as actual Hoosiers without the consecutive lap life. Overall life is about similar though since the Hoosier will cord by the time you've run the life outta the A052's even if there is still meat on it. 52's can also be used in the wet. Basically if you are going for overall lap speed and don't need life get a a7 as they are lighter. If you need to run a 200tw tire because of series rules get the a052. re71 are similar but with less peak grip. still a VERY fast tire. I would say that both are faster than the nt01 as its an old compound, and the re71 is similar to the ar1, a052 and hoosier a7 are fastest by quite a margin.
Yeah, that was my assumption. Just was initially surprised since I assumed you'd have a dedicated set of track wheels and tires given the depth of your build. I admire you driving it on the street with good tires though.
Oh yeah, I totally understand and agree. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of them do that mostly/completely because of the classing rule I was referring to. Since going below 200tw basically guarantees all your competitors will be on slicks it doesn't make a lot of sense if you want any hope of staying competitive without buying slicks yourself.
Thanks for the info though. I'll have to see how the sizing on each aligns to my needs... that will likely narrow my choices down some too.
Lots more stuff happening but ill wait until Im able to get pics to go with the text. In the meanwhile 18x10 square Regamasters Evo racing spec. Light weight and strong wrapped in 295 square AR1. This thing should have grip for days now.
Did you need a lot of fender modifications to make those fit?
Hey will I’m looking to get a square 18 wheel
set up for the track I was wondering what offset you’re 18x10s are? I’ll most likely go with a 18x9.5. Also, any way you can help me get some AR1s
I ordered a set of Nankang AR-1s also looking forward to trying them out. Also, you track with the traction off (holding button 10sec)? I have been keeping it on since I don’t have an LSD do you recommend I keep it off
Yeah I do the 10 second hold. No pedal dance. You want to turn off the VSA but leave on the E-diff stuff. An ISF with no differential needs some assistance from the ECU to sort out the wheel spin otherwise you just smoke the inside tire on corner exit. In my testing I was over 4 seconds faster with the 10 second hold method over the pedal dance on a non-diff equipped ISF. Once the diff is installed and the car has equal traction on both wheels under acceleration ill likely opt for the "everything off" pedal dance mode but- more testing will reveal that for sure.
Rad on the AR1. do you have another track day planned aside from the 15th of next month?
01-07-20 | 01:23 PM
