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your not helping my cause here, I’d like to get my hands on that modified torque converter. So please share all your negative experiences with those damn build killers instead of trying to sell a wire harnesss that you and buddies build and sell
Hey sorry if there was confusion on this, but I sent the PI converter back for a full refund as it was physically incorrect for the A650E and flex plate altogether. I had them re-stall my OEM converter to 3200 and am running that.
I suspect something like this is more likely your solution set. And hopefully easier than pulling a transmission (again).
Originally Posted by KyleH
Also, as a sanity check this Boomslang documented GE OCV- Pin location lines up with the similar connector and pin location on the GTE connector set (Plug B1), unsurprisingly.
It's clear they messed up for the earlier GS's at least. It appears to be right for the IS300 which I think is similar to later year GS's. I'm sure that has a lot to do with their understanding of it. The harness is advertised and sold for the early models too though, so that has made it difficult and confusing to figure out.
This is the IS300's Pinout. The 2001 has the same connectors as the early GS's before changing. But the inputs are pinned differently. So that's where the confusion was. They thought because it physically plugs in, it must be the same. My Boomslang harness has the 2001 IS300 connectors shown here (which are the same as my car's and plug in). But as you can see in their diagram, they show the connectors for the 02+ models and somehow they pinned it that way on the older style. anyways, something got screwed up. I'll just have to map it out and re-pin it.
Well my excitement has been halted. I went over all the into in my diagrams and it appears they did do a correct job pinning. They pictured the wrong connectors and labeled some wrong, like calling connector #E2, #E7 etc. but when you look at my actual connectors and where they pinned, it isn't off. I still have to verify a lot on the car. But according to the diagrams, it isn't off which means the harness is likely going to be correct. It appeared to be obviously off at first look, just confusing.
I did notice a some things. For example, VVT OCV uses both a + source on E2#18 and a - ground on E2#17. The Harness is only pinned for - ground on #17. I know several of the inputs probably use a shared power or ground source. So this is probably normal. Just sucks I'm back to square 1 again. Can't figure out what the problem is.
Sorry to hear it sounds like the harness is correct. I still am still however perplexed by your VVTI not being functional. If it's being controlled (correctly) by the AEM, there's no way the stock ECU should be controlling it, and therefore, it being inactive is, to me, still pointing at something in the wiring, harness, or tune.
Received my limited edition Serialnine “No Mercy” line steering wheel. I was lucky enough to get 1of 100 produced (#74). They basically sold out instantly in the 3 days they were available. I’ll be rocking this wheel with an NRG hub adapter and quick release all in matching black/green colors as S9 intended. I have my resistor for the airbag bypass and know how to wire up the horn.
Boxed Unboxed Front. Says “No Mercy For Peasants” Back side. Says “S9” all around the wheel. #74 S9 Horn button All wires, resistors, and adapters necessary for horn and no airbag light. Good quality makes for clean easy install About how it’s gonna look
Going over things for another shot at a final tune. Haven’t posted up pics of any changes for quite some time. Wanted to share some exterior mods. Car is filthy from rainy weather but looks nice in this light.
The changes recently are the Aristo chrome door handles and trunk garnish. Front marker lights changed for clear lenses. Front TTE style lip. License plate moved to side for better intercooler airflow. And obviously the new steering wheel I already shared. Trying to keep a sleek sleeper style but may go for a little more VIP styling in the future.
Hoping for good things this Friday and to finally be done with the mechanical side of things. Ready to finally enjoy driving this car and focus on the cosmetics. Anyways, here she is, and a few pics of some turbo goodness.
Can't catch a break. Tuning didn't work out again. This time for a different reason. The good news is, finally got VVT to work and got the 2nd fuel pump dialed in. However something caused timing to jump when we started to hit it on the dyno. Not completely sure what all needs replaced until I get around to tearing it down, but I can tell the tensioner, the pulley, or the nut for the pulley, or the bolt for the tensioner bracket has broken, come loose, or failed in some why as I can rock the pulley with a screwdriver. My only saving grace is that my engine is no longer an interference engine with GTE spec dished pistons and a thicker HG. The 264 cams don't make a big enough lift difference to cause hits. Anyways, the car still starts and runs and I was able to drive home. Surprisingly it runs pretty smooth with both cams being about 30* advanced from the crank as it sits now. So I'm pretty certain there is no internal engine damage.
Other developments are, an oil dipstick tube seal that started to leak pretty good. Don't think I ever had a replacement for it. Have that coming. And the other is the valve cover gasket along the turbo side only has started heavily leaking all of a sudden. I am pretty sure the seal is being melted by the heat of the turbo, manifold, and the fact that down pipe and waste gate all sit right along it. Will have to replace it and figure out some kind of shield to go along the engine there. An aluminum strip with some heat reflector tape or something.
Will be taking care of these things and going back again and again.. and again..
Finally got a day to work on the GS. Had to reset timing, so I replaced the tensioner and pulley and went with a Tomei timing belt this time. Also went back together with BC's ARP exh. cam gear bolt, and Titan's ARP crank bolt for added protection. Upgraded to a DC Power 180amp alternator and an ATI super damper. Changed oil for the first time after the engine rebuild too with Valvoline's high zinc VR1 10w30 racing oil. Used an OEM Toyota filter and a Greddy magnetic drain plug as well. I didn’t expect the car to even run after the job but wow what a surprise! Its running outstanding and putting down some really good power. Can’t wait to hit the dyno for hopefully the last time.
Edit: It's making at least 400hp as it sits! The air/fuel ratios are looking good at all rpms. I can burn rubber mashing the pedal at 50mph! I guess they still loaded on a plausible tune for how it should be. Still going in for a final tune of course. But very pleased with how it's running now. Right now it's on the 10 psi waste-gate spring pressure, 1 of 2 hellcat fuel pumps, no vvt yet (we got it working, but not set up). So there is a lot more for this thing to crank out.
Looking clean and sexy again with the new belt. I had developed a leak that really made my Gate's one look terrible, and it had been on and off the car multiple times. After this last timing slip, I just can't trust using it again This one should last a while though.
The alternator is plug and play. Comes with a way cooler pulley, but mine was lighter so I went with it. Also the body is lighter, and looks nice. It's nice to know power is there for what I've done and will do to the car. It already has several added systems and more to come.
The ATI damper was a PITA to install. Came in multiple pieces and the hub snout is so tight I thought I would rip the threads out of the crank. But it went well in the end. Reason for the damper, high power build and the need to protect it. The 264 cam's aren't crazy, but they do hit another 1000 rpm higher than stock. Mine's been hitting 7,200 on the dyno. The OEM damper was never meant to operate in those conditions. Especially when big power is being pushed at those rpms. Lot's of stress on the crank.
I went in for another attempt at tuning and have both good news and bad. The good news is, everything is going well with the engine and computer. After getting everything dialed in we started turning up the boost and made it to about 550whp before the transmission started to slip. We all believe the numbers will be a lot higher, but can't get anything done with a bad trans obviously. By the time we were done, the car barely goes into drive or revers before just slipping. Nice of this special 800whp rated trans to let me down. I will be contacting Jeff at Powerdynamix I'm sure to no avail, but only to let him know his trans build was a failure. Will probably be another year or more in the process of a manual swap now. At least the issues that had been plaguing me before this are fixed. Sometimes I wonder if it's ever meant to be.
Wow. I'm disappointed to hear the transmission is not up to task and I'm sure you're beside yourself about it after spending the time and money. I'm sure it's hardly any consolation, but I would gone the same route - leveraging Powerdynamix for a build if keeping the stock transmission also. Just surprised and disappointed here for you. I hope Jeff takes care of you. Don't blame you for heading toward the manual swap at this point, but hate to hear such poor results with the built auto.
12-18-21, 05:03 AM
and again.. 
and again.. 
