I finally got her on the Dyno. Lots of fun and educational.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w2H...ew?usp=sharing

 

Hey did you ever set up a fuel return system? Also how much power did you make? I boosted my is300 and just bought an sc300 and plan on boosting this one as well. Just looking for a new turner down here in Florida as my is300 isn't running the best right now. Needs a fuel return system.

 

Hey bruce, I have two questions for you. I have the same Cx racing kit on my nat sc build and am worried about the down pipe figment being too close to the rear coolant heater hose. Do you have that issue as well or did you modify anything for clearance/ peace of mind for it not melting. Also, the wastegate dump tube doesn’t fit, nor do I really have room with my water hose being in the way. Did you have to custom fabricate a dump tube? Thanks in advance!

 

alphakill8, I have not modified the fuel return system in any way from stock. Not sure that needs to happen on an SC300? As far as power goes, my clutch started slipping before the car made it to max power. Based on how it was performing to that point and a car I am familiar with that is nearly identical, the my SC is likely doing about 400 at the wheel. I have recently purchased a new clutch that will get installed soon.

Bruce

 

ryansc3, As far as the coolant line goes, don't forget there is coolant running through the line that keeps is cool. I can take some pics so you can see how mine looks. As far as the the wastegate dump tube, I do not recall having to modify it. I did add a bung to my downpipe and I ran a flexible exhaust tube from my wastegate dump tube to the bung on my down pipe so the waste gate exhaust gets run though the exhaust system.

Hmm. Now that I think about it, I may have had a buddy of mine weld up a tube that runs from the wastegate down and bends around towards the downpipe and then I have the flex tube from there to the down pipe bung.

Coolant line


Coolant line


Wastegate


Wastegate


Wastegate


Wastegate


Under Hood

 

Well, following the failure of the Action Clutch (ACR-0794) to hold the power on the dyno, I upgraded to a stage 4 clutch from Competition Clutch (16085-1620). This one should easily hold the torque.

Being this is the third time replacing the clutch in about 6 months, I am getting good at it. Only took me about 8 hours.

Bruce

 

Get that thing strapped back down and I can't wait to hear what it makes!!

 

Hang in there Bruce. I am glad you are not one to give up on a project.
Bill

 

Thanks all. Me too. I have to put on 700 break in miles first.

 

So I finally went COP today. I installed 3 vvti coils. I have added some photos. I was able to get the spark plug tray with the holes for the plug wires out and was able to do the install without removing the crossover intake. I did have to grind off a tab and the corner off the #2 coil so I could get it in. Other than that the only thing that was a PIA was running the wires and pulling them through the looms. Over all, it went fairly easy.

Here are some pics:

















All wired up.






All buttoned up.


The photo below is not mine but it is a good one from the web that shows which wires are B+ and igniter coil wires. I was using connectors that were not color coded so I needed a pic the let me know which terminal was B+. The B+ terminal is the one closest to the hood of the car when the coil is installed.



Bruce

 

Bruce,
Great job, I believe this is the first time I have seen an article covering this mod with pictures. You did good.
Bill

 

Thanks Bill. I found the same thing. I searched high and low for pictures of vvti with cross over style intake and I had very little luck. Hopefully these pics will help someone down the line.

Bruce

 

So now that I don’t need spark plug wires any more, I modified my distributor cap.

 

Way to go Bruce.
Bill

 

Hello Football Season