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With how complete everything is up front I'm not in the biggest mood to cut it up to try and fit a large FMIC; especially with no goals in the immediate future beyond 400-450. So I decided to jump on a 91-95 SMIC setup from a soarer for real cheap. Just need to clean it up and probably replace the couplers with some new silicone. Also comes with the air filter box which looks like it will work perfect with my modified vvt-i intake w/ MAF on my 2jzgte.
A factory side mount will do very well if you're not trying to push mega boost and it does sit in a very efficient location in the front of the car allowing good radiator air flow. I run one myself but I had mine re-cored for better efficiency.
FYI, you will need to stay with a 1992-1996 style front bumper to use that 91-95 Soarer SMIC shroud. If you use a 1997-2000 SC front bumper then you'll need to find a Soarer 1JZ VVT-i SMIC shroud.
The 91-95 version of the Soarer SMIC can be rebuilt with a new modern core due to its all-metal end tank design. According to some tests that AutoSpeed (Australia) did many years ago the early Soarer stock SMIC flows 214 CFM given its very early 90's IC core technology. Compare that to the 305 CFM of a 1993 Supra Turbo SMIC (which does not really fit in an SC300 in the same location due to some dimensional, mounting point and lower pipe angle differences).
Should this ever be of interest to you: I had Bell Intercoolers (Texas) take my 91-95 Soarer SMIC and custom re-core it with a modern center in the exact same dimensions with the stock metal end tanks and replicating the stock bracket points exactly from a jig they made for it (which they probably still have). The result was the same stock Soarer intercooler but with their estimated 400 CFM ballpark (give or take a little) max flow. Whatever the new flow number actually is it's well more than a stock Supra MKIV SMIC and much more efficient than its original core was.
The cost for me to do this was not cheap-- around $600+ but the result was totally worth it. And I did use a 96-00 Soarer VVT-i SMIC shroud since I have a 97-00 front bumper but either shroud matched to the right bumper type is fine as long as you have one installed as it's essential for an SMIC.
Starting out you can definitely use the Soarer SMIC as it is no problem-- it's pretty substantial already in stock form. Just know that the option does exist to upgrade the core to a more modern and efficient one within its same dimensions should you ever decide to.
Thats cool to know! I also didn't know that I could re-use this setup with the 97+ SMIC shroud to fit the newer bumper. I did find your thread about that but good to find more information about it, definitely an option for the future.
Thats cool to know! I also didn't know that I could re-use this setup with the 97+ SMIC shroud to fit the newer bumper. I did find your thread about that but good to find more information about it, definitely an option for the future.
You certainly can! It's just a bit hard to find one of those shrouds used. Toyota no longer sells them to the best of my knowledge so you would need to find one on the U.S., UK, Australian or New Zealand eBay websites. Or if you know how to use the purchasing liaison process you can also look on Yahoo Japan Auctions. I found a 1JZ Soarer VVT-i shroud from an Australian eBay seller many years ago. There was a very minimal amount of modification required to fit it to the 91-95 SMIC which I documented in my build thread. Some new sealing felt (whatever is most like what Toyota used) is probably a good idea too for whichever shroud you use.
Wow, I never knew Lexus offer this color for the SC. Just like the Royal Sapphire Pearl which was also offer the 1997 year model which is also rare. I have to admit, I only buy white, but after seeing the 1998 Supra Turbo in RSP in person, I feel in love with the color. As for the Baltic Blue, I've seen it in person at my dealership. Our mechanic knows a doctor with 2 Baltic blue Supra Turbo (93 Turbo automatic and 93 Turbo hardtop 6sdp). One thing with Baltic blue is you have to see it in daylight to appreciate the color. The color really stand out when it is shinny in direct sunlight.
Yeah I'm sure there were less RSP cars made, I've seen around the forum that there were about 100-110 RSP's made, which in comparison to the 1995 baltic blue is about 1/4 made, but I agree with you the baltic blue really cannot be appreciated until you see the car in the sunlight. Gotta say I like the baltic more than the RSP, it is way less flashy.
Not really much updates, but my radio stopped working (rear speakers went out first, then fronts).. I figured it was the amplifier in the trunk so I ordered another one and just went to install it tonight and was in for a bit of a surprise. The dreaded water in the trunk. I probably had about 4" of water in both the side corners. Took out the cd changer and amplifier w/ brackets and cleaned up all the water/dried it out and installed the new amp and it works good.
One thing I found which kind of bewilders me is the radio brackets are painted blue; fully on all sides. The amplifier cover has had the cover removed, label taped off and painted blue, and there is definitely a blue "overspray" mark on the cd-changer implying they were spraying when all of these components were installed. I've never heard or seen of the factory doing this, but this is a special edition/special order color so it raises eyebrows. It also makes me wonder if there wasn't repair on that side and this was done by a body shop but it was sold under the pretense that it had zero accidents and carfax was clean. Also all the interior metal including the tail light areas appear undamaged.
Joe, let me mention something about the water in the trunk. Years ago I had that problem in the trunk of a couple of my BMWs. I ascertained that the drain tubes from the four corners of the sun roof might be clogged. I went to Home Depot and bought some small diameter cable (must be small enough to slide through the drain tubes without tearing them and long enough to go all the way through) and wrapped the ends with a good brand of electrical tape. The back tubes were partially blocked. I don't know why this would not work with our cars. I have always heard not to blow through them you might cause a tube to dislocate then you really have problems. You should have a drain hole at each corner.
Now, for my water problem. I had water under the amp and discovered that my drain hose had shrunk and the tube at the body exit hole was loose letting some water come in the trunk. My fix was inserting a piece of tubing into the drain hose with a clamp and rubber grommet on the inside and a clamp on the outside of the body so that it cannot be pulled through. Went back later and sealed the grommet with black silicone. This may have been a Mickey Mouse way to fix the leak but it worked and nobody can see that little clamp underneath. I hope this helps.
Bill
Thanks! I went back out once the light was out and a few things I noticed.. There was ALSO a lot of water in the spare tire center area... Which doesn't seem to be explained by the drain tubes. I checked the antenna gasket, the trunk seal seems to be fine, its not coming in through the tailights.. but the upper sides of my fenders in the trunk had thousands of condensed droplets ready to run down. I've popped out all the drains from the center and sides to let water get out if it comes in, and wiped it all down with towels to dry it and put damp-rid buckets in the back. Good news is my radio works again with the new amplifier.
Second, the painted brackets must've been done non-factory as the color doesn't match the inner body panels. Interesting that a previous owner disassembled and painted the radio brackets, although I can't really understand why other than there is surface rust in the spare tire and both sides which means this water issue has been reoccurring for years and he probably had to replace the radio amplifier once already, and could've spray painted the brackets because of rust when re-assembling.
Quick question Joe, was your carpet and mat wet when you found the water. If so check the trunk gasket and also the metal that the gasket is attached to and underneath also. The water had to come from somewhere, maybe one of the drain hoses from the sunroof has got a leak. That is all I can think of. Again Good Luck and Merry Christmas.
Bill
None of the carpet has any evidence of being wet, which was my first thoughts that maybe the wing or upper trunk seal was leaking. I will keep looking after the holidays at least the lake in my trunk is drained and dried with damp-rid back there to help pick up any extra moisture.
Well long overdue update but I've been daily driving the car, working on other hobbies and busy as heck with work. Fixed my antenna and unplugged it so its stuck down; radio still works fine so I'm not bothered and I hated the broken motor syndrome. Put the tires and wheels from my GS onto the SC, but the rear suspension on my SC was long overdue for replacement and my first outing i almost lost both rear tires with how hard the rear end dropped. Got the new rear coils on and its excellent, much better ride than my PBM's and the dampening is great even on full hard at the moment. Very good feel. I need to do the front coils next but I was excited to wash her and show where the rears are set for now. Wheel offsets are probably not ideal but I'm running 275/45/18 on the back.
Good morning Joe,
Have you thought about trying 275/35 x 18 on the rear. This size is the same diameter as the tire that was on the SC400 and will not throw you speedometer off like your current size does, if your car is a 400 If your car is a 300 then it will be thrown off just a little. I have been running the 35 series for several years with no complaint. I am also running 255/35 x 18 on the front which are the same diameter as the 300 cars. Just something to ponder.
This is a 1995 SC300; and I've never really been bothered by the slight speedometer difference; but extremely bothered by the road feel and handling with a lower series sidewall. I try to typically stick with a 40 or 45 series sidewall on both front and rear but maybe some day I will just buy a set to try out and lower the car a tad more to see how I re-feel about it.
Your SC is looking great, Joe!! And I love those classic deep dish GS wheels! The ride height looks good with the rear coilovers installed and those 275/45/18's.
11-05-20, 01:28 PM
