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Sorry to hear for your bad luck buddy.I ve been there and it hearts to loose the engine after all the effort you made in order to make it work.I hope you make it this time with no problems at all.
If I read that right, the new transplant is a 4GR? Why not start with a 3GR or get another 2GR? It sounds like the plan is to keep the 350 ECU and 12 injectors in hopes of being able to fuel the smaller displacement engine and not melt it? Or did I miss something? I certainly would be looking closer at ignition timing no matter what engine goes in.
I see man, good and bad news, still it is awesome the project continues!
Have a few questions, before you go MIA on us, ha ha... Have you had a chance to tear up the damaged engine? if so, was there crankshaft, rods failure, or was it only the piston?
To check air fuel ratio, is it with a Innovate wideband?
And how much did the engine cost you?
I have seen on other boosted applications, like on K20s (Honda motors), they get rid off/disable variable valve timing, I think it was because boost compensates for the higher cam profile need and resolved a lot of their tuning issues. On Mazdas V6 2.5L engines, on the MX-2, on boost, it would make ridiculous power, the infamous KL-ZE.
Havent opened the old one yet - should happen in the next few weeks so I'll report back with the findings. Judging by the location it pierced the block I'd say it's a piston or rod.
AFRs are through the innovate SCG with a failsafe built in - probably not quick enough to respond to a injector failure under boost.
I'm in Australia so the prices obviously won't mean much but probably around the equivalent of $800-900USD shipped to my door.
Originally Posted by PAVGR
Sorry to hear for your bad luck buddy.I ve been there and it hearts to loose the engine after all the effort you made in order to make it work.I hope you make it this time with no problems at all.
Thanks bro, hopefully a better result this time.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
If I read that right, the new transplant is a 4GR? Why not start with a 3GR or get another 2GR? It sounds like the plan is to keep the 350 ECU and 12 injectors in hopes of being able to fuel the smaller displacement engine and not melt it? Or did I miss something? I certainly would be looking closer at ignition timing no matter what engine goes in.
Original engine is a 4GR with 2GR direct injectors. All tuned to run the is350 direct injectors. Didn't go for a 3GR because I can't find any as new as this 3IS 4GR I'm installing. Ignition timing is something we'll probably try to stay on the safe side of this time during tuning but it was meant to be a fairly safe tune last time.
I had two Mazda MX-6, one Ls, one 4cyl. Love the MX-6 and still search for a clean used one every now and then. They’re such a different looking car and even the non KLZE makes (ok) power. RR racing used to offer a lot of goods for the platform as well.
Just to add some previous content from BEFORE the engine blew - ended up turning my attention to some handling mods and cleaning up the interior last year.
Installed a full H brace, subframe brace kit by Megan Racing, RR Racing LCA, IS-F front Sway Bar (same size as the F-Sport bar), 19mm rear sway bar, Ultra Racing rear tower bar, RR Racing Front tower bar AND a 2012 IS-F steering ECU. I did previously have Advan RG-D wheels and KwV3 coilovers but have since sold them and moved to OEM Blade IS-F wheels that I'll use spacers to have them flush. I've opted to move from the Kw's to Silvers NeoMax R's - for people unfamiliar with the NeoMax's they're the coilovers used to make RR's road and track suspension (they use the NeoMax S while I opted for the slightly higher spec NeoMax R). The KW's were far too soft out of the box and definitely better suited to a lighter car.
I'll probably look to add a 4.1 Ratio LSD diff out of a BRZ in the future, upgrade the bushings with new rubber ones (don't want poly bushings as I'd rather keep the car a bit softer and keep NVH down), add solid steering rack bushings (only exception to the rubber bushing statement) and finally add the RR Racing upper control arms. After this I'll look to leave the car as it is.
Cleaned the inteiror up but have some big plans for this year including having the OEM dash wrapped to hide the damage from the defect, modifying the OEM seats and a few other small details. For now the mods ive done include carbon overlays on the trim pieces (the real carbon overlays you buy online). Elvin Carbon Fibre Steering wheel, OEM F sport shifter, Tesla style headunit (which I've since repainted in interior trim black to blend better and added android auto and carplay to it), hard-wired a wireless charger, diamond car mats and a LED swap. I did temporarily have a 2008 IS-F cluster but I needed to fit a RPM signal converter since the cluster is programmed to read a signal from a V8 not a V6 so I opted to sell it and just do a blue LED swap on the original.
I am currently in process of swapping the ISF cluster as well. but the cluster I have is from 2013 model. Can you confirm that the signal converter box will work for fixing the rpm reading? can we simply tab the TACH pin behind the cluster and feed it to the converter then take the output back to the cluster? and did you figured out how to fix the Oil temp gauge as well? I suspect it might be in the CANBUS or multiplex(MPX) system?
My installer tried to install my rear Megan braces but said they were hitting the gas tank, so couldn’t install them. No issues with yours?
No issues at all from what i can tell. If you've got a full size spare I know the f sport x brace won't work.
Originally Posted by Thannp
I am currently in process of swapping the ISF cluster as well. but the cluster I have is from 2013 model. Can you confirm that the signal converter box will work for fixing the rpm reading? can we simply tab the TACH pin behind the cluster and feed it to the converter then take the output back to the cluster? and did you figured out how to fix the Oil temp gauge as well? I suspect it might be in the CANBUS or multiplex(MPX) system?
Thanks
Should be the same for both versions of the IS-F cluster. It just needs the converter to interpret the V6 RPM when it expects the signal from a V8. Plenty of info online of how to do it.
I did encounter a couple of other small issues - I could never get the fuel range to read accurately. It would say I had half the range I actually had. You also can't display the gear the car is in while in manual mode. The oil temp aspect I'm not sure on. I tried to find wiring info in regards to the oil temperature sensor or even an input for the cluster and couldn't find anything so I'm assuming it CANBUS related.
No issues at all from what i can tell. If you've got a full size spare I know the f sport x brace won't work.
Should be the same for both versions of the IS-F cluster. It just needs the converter to interpret the V6 RPM when it expects the signal from a V8. Plenty of info online of how to do it.
I did encounter a couple of other small issues - I could never get the fuel range to read accurately. It would say I had half the range I actually had. You also can't display the gear the car is in while in manual mode. The oil temp aspect I'm not sure on. I tried to find wiring info in regards to the oil temperature sensor or even an input for the cluster and couldn't find anything so I'm assuming it CANBUS related.
Maybe the voltage range is different for the fuel gauge. I just got the car back and the tach is fixed now it is display the correct RPM. I have ISF fuel pump install. Let see if that help with the fuel gauge problem. and yes I have the same small problem with you still don't know how to tackle that ha but it looks cool! and the shift light works
I could be mistaken but I recall reading that the oil pressure gauge is the only gauge in the f that didn't get digitized and placed on the CAN bus, thus I'm guessing it remains fully analog. So no data is available via the OBD port. However the oil temperature is digitized and on the CAN, as it limits TP until the engine is up to temperature.
I have been looking into how to solve the fuel gauge inaccuracy, I think it comes down to the ohm range diff between The is350 and ISF. Will try to replace the current fuel leveling sender unit on the other side of the pump with the ISFs to see if it fix the problem
Pulled the engine out and now have a fairly good idea why the engine failed. New engine has been installed with new injectors. We went back to a set of brand new IS250 injectors rather than the IS350 version. In the tuning process it made zero difference. The stock fuel system can't account for the turbo up top anyway so the benefits of the is350 injectors (assuming there even is any major difference in cc between the two) is negligible.
Gotta love incorrect installed injectors that can't seal properly...
Back together and rolling around on IS-F BBS wheels.
hiding all the usual mess again from the installation.
Fuel line all ready to tap in for the auxiliary injector. Just need to wire in the microsquirt and put it all together.
Picked up some ES300h F sport seats as well. Plan is to gut the tan interior and change everything to black this week then wire these in. Don't think anyone has ever used these seats in a 2IS so hopefully it's fairly painless and doesn't involve modifying the bracket.
I'll be adding sound deadening to the interior and wiring in a aftermarker blindspot detection system while I'm there. I've also got a high-end ambient lighting kit with multi zone control to wire in as I go as well as re-do all the ugly green LEDs in the oem buttons and dash.
Let us know how that seat install goes! Any thoughts as to a fix for the airbag light, as the factory harness likely will not be a direct connect to the seats harness?
Let us know how that seat install goes! Any thoughts as to a fix for the airbag light, as the factory harness likely will not be a direct connect to the seats harness?
I'll aim to wire it in 100% first. If that fails I'll do the resistor mod and disable the airbags in the seat.
Can safely say the seats 100% aren't compatible with the second gen IS. Brackets aren't even close and would require extensive modification. It's likely not impossible but definitely not worth the effort given.
The harness could likely be modified but I was hoping to use the RC/GS to IS harness swap guide to do it - again, very different again even to the RC/GS harness so I'd be stabbing in the dark. Surprisingly the airbag would have been easy to get working.
Given I couldn't make the seat fit, my next best option was to swap the seat cushions between the seats. Not the easiest task as a lot of the seat cushion fixing points are different and there isn't an easy way to fix that but once everything is swapped it fits very well. Even given the extra thickness of the 2IS seats, the ES cushions still fit like a glove.
Took the opportunity while the seats were out to dynamat the exposed metal under the carpet.
08-18-22, 05:00 PM
