JT2MA71's 2014 UW build
#515
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I've got 2013 IS-350 using this same case as this. It also accepted the OS-Giken w/out clearancing the case. Is the finned IS-F case beefier inside creating the need to grind it??
As best I can tell, you have used an impact gun to do the 60 to 90° of rotation on the the torque to yield, so far so good? No issues?
Thanks!
Awesome build thread! Your timeline of work done is headed to the moon at a record rate! And everything you've touched is so clean!
#516
I've got 2013 IS-350 using this same case as this. It also accepted the OS-Giken w/out clearancing the case. Is the finned IS-F case beefier inside creating the need to grind it??
As best I can tell, you have used an impact gun to do the 60 to 90° of rotation on the the torque to yield, so far so good? No issues?
Thanks!
Awesome build thread! Your timeline of work done is headed to the moon at a record rate! And everything you've touched is so clean!
As best I can tell, you have used an impact gun to do the 60 to 90° of rotation on the the torque to yield, so far so good? No issues?
Thanks!
Awesome build thread! Your timeline of work done is headed to the moon at a record rate! And everything you've touched is so clean!
Yes, I used an impact gun to turn the bolts another 60-90 degrees after the initial torque.. Book specifies to apply loctite on the threads as well as on the head flange, which made turning the bolts easier and smoother. And yes, so far so good! Thank you! Appreciate the kind comments!
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2013FSport (11-20-22)
#519
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I hope you never have to deal with this but with all the poly added, it can be problematic over time. I've installed full polyurethane on a couple of DD's and eventually it squeaked and would stick in place actually binding up the suspension.
My solution was to pull it apart, pull the inner sleeves, and drill through the bushing shell and bushing. Tap the shells for a zerk fittings and grind a 360° circular channel in the interior through the new hole. Grease and reassemble. When it gets sticky or squeaks, grease it with choice of silicone lubricant. On thrust bushings like the front LCA, you can add grooves to the thrust area and the grease will flow. It sucked to redo everything but it was quick and it solved the dry bushing problem.
On a DD it needed it once a year or so. Yours could last a very long time depending on use.
The the flush mount zerk that use pointy tipped grease gun were my choice as they don't stick out as much.
My solution was to pull it apart, pull the inner sleeves, and drill through the bushing shell and bushing. Tap the shells for a zerk fittings and grind a 360° circular channel in the interior through the new hole. Grease and reassemble. When it gets sticky or squeaks, grease it with choice of silicone lubricant. On thrust bushings like the front LCA, you can add grooves to the thrust area and the grease will flow. It sucked to redo everything but it was quick and it solved the dry bushing problem.
On a DD it needed it once a year or so. Yours could last a very long time depending on use.
The the flush mount zerk that use pointy tipped grease gun were my choice as they don't stick out as much.
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JT2MA71 (11-22-22)
#520
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I hope you never have to deal with this but with all the poly added, it can be problematic over time. I've installed full polyurethane on a couple of DD's and eventually it squeaked and would stick in place actually binding up the suspension.
My solution was to pull it apart, pull the inner sleeves, and drill through the bushing shell and bushing. Tap the shells for a zerk fittings and grind a 360° circular channel in the interior through the new hole. Grease and reassemble. When it gets sticky or squeaks, grease it with choice of silicone lubricant. On thrust bushings like the front LCA, you can add grooves to the thrust area and the grease will flow. It sucked to redo everything but it was quick and it solved the dry bushing problem.
On a DD it needed it once a year or so. Yours could last a very long time depending on use.
The the flush mount zerk that use pointy tipped grease gun were my choice as they don't stick out as much.
My solution was to pull it apart, pull the inner sleeves, and drill through the bushing shell and bushing. Tap the shells for a zerk fittings and grind a 360° circular channel in the interior through the new hole. Grease and reassemble. When it gets sticky or squeaks, grease it with choice of silicone lubricant. On thrust bushings like the front LCA, you can add grooves to the thrust area and the grease will flow. It sucked to redo everything but it was quick and it solved the dry bushing problem.
On a DD it needed it once a year or so. Yours could last a very long time depending on use.
The the flush mount zerk that use pointy tipped grease gun were my choice as they don't stick out as much.
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JT2MA71 (11-22-22)
#521
The inside surface of the suspension poly bushings have “knurling” that are designed to retain grease/lube. I imagine if they were smooth, that the grease will all be pushed out in short time. Like @lobuxracer I have not had any squeaking or binding issues so far.
Years ago, I did drill and tap some Supra suspension arms/bushings and installed grease fittings like you did, @2013FSport but the bushings were solid nylon.
Years ago, I did drill and tap some Supra suspension arms/bushings and installed grease fittings like you did, @2013FSport but the bushings were solid nylon.
Last edited by JT2MA71; 11-22-22 at 06:47 AM.
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2013FSport (11-29-22)
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#524
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
Amazing build! I came here looking for info on the 3.13 final drive, I'll be ordering that OEM new now. Now looking for a diff to install them in. It's crazy that new, the RC-F rear diff is $700 less than the IS-F rear diff if they are basically the same.
I love the rest of your build too! I just picked up a 19k mile IS-F and you are giving me courage to modify, lol.
Have you thought about a yellow pin stripe on the edge of the spoiler, something like this white stripe on an E92 spoiler?
I love the rest of your build too! I just picked up a 19k mile IS-F and you are giving me courage to modify, lol.
Have you thought about a yellow pin stripe on the edge of the spoiler, something like this white stripe on an E92 spoiler?
#525
Amazing build! I came here looking for info on the 3.13 final drive, I'll be ordering that OEM new now. Now looking for a diff to install them in. It's crazy that new, the RC-F rear diff is $700 less than the IS-F rear diff if they are basically the same.
I love the rest of your build too! I just picked up a 19k mile IS-F and you are giving me courage to modify, lol.
Have you thought about a yellow pin stripe on the edge of the spoiler, something like this white stripe on an E92 spoiler?
I love the rest of your build too! I just picked up a 19k mile IS-F and you are giving me courage to modify, lol.
Have you thought about a yellow pin stripe on the edge of the spoiler, something like this white stripe on an E92 spoiler?
I am thinking of the pin stripe on the spoiler, I did it on the RC F.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 12-28-22 at 12:54 PM.