When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you! If you're buying the ring and pinion new, might as well get the 2014 F housing 41102-22030, and buy all new bearings and seals, and of course an OS Aiken LSD. Unless of course if you're looking for a used diff to use the torsen from it.
I am thinking of the pin stripe on the spoiler, I did it on the RC F.
I actually just realized the 2021 RC-F diff already has the 3.13 final drive gears in it, they are not separate. I'm trying to decide between (1) 2021 RC-F diff with torsen and 3.13 gears already installed or (2) just adding the 3.13 gears and OS Giken to my '08 rear diff.
Definitely do the pin stripe on the rear spoiler! Or maybe try the white paint fade into the carbon fiber look, I always liked this too.
The '08 diff housing will need to be clearanced to fit the Giken spool. That's why the recommendation for the later model housing - it needs no modification to fit the spool.
Torsen is OK and will last pretty much forever unless you plan to drift a lot. But it works just like an open diff if one wheel comes off the ground. I have a Torsen in my Supra and the Giken TCD in my IS F and I would happily trade out the Torsen for the Giken unit after driving both.
Started working on the RC F throttle body to IS F manifold project. Had an RC F tb laying around, got a used intake manifold off of eBay, bought a Prospeed adapter. Manifold needed to be port matched to the adapter. Also, cleaned off some casting flash around velocity stacks.
Needs about 3mm taken off all the way around.
Port matched for smooth air flow.
Took off casting flash around the stacks. Will need to clean casting flash inside the runners too.
Surge tank gasket isn’t available from Lexus/Toyota the black coating has flaked off in some spots. Used a torch to cook the rest of the black coating and used a soft wire brush and scotchbrite to clean everything off. I will use a spray gasket or something during re-assembly. Did some more detail work on the manifold, blended off some casting unevenness.
The sad thing about casting flash removal is it only makes you feel better. It usually makes no significant difference in flow numbers. If you really want to make a difference, match the intake ports with the head ports. If there's a step there (head smaller than manifold) it creates a ton of turbulence that's usually not good.
The sad thing about casting flash removal is it only makes you feel better. It usually makes no significant difference in flow numbers. If you really want to make a difference, match the intake ports with the head ports. If there's a step there (head smaller than manifold) it creates a ton of turbulence that's usually not good.
That’s correct, it does make me feel better and everything is being done only when I have no other important things to do, so I can’t say I wasted my time. Once this manifold is put back together, it will probably sit forever before I decide to use it, maybe I’ll wait til I actually have to remove the current manifold for some other reason like resealing the VP. Until then, I can’t match the ports.
Interesting choice of coatings for the gasket. Way back in the day when the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers went to multi-sheet metal head gaskets, we would always reuse them and just clean them up and paint them with silver paint (it looked identical to new OEM with silver). Not sure what the black stuff is, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's just satin black paint.
Interesting choice of coatings for the gasket. Way back in the day when the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers went to multi-sheet metal head gaskets, we would always reuse them and just clean them up and paint them with silver paint (it looked identical to new OEM with silver). Not sure what the black stuff is, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's just satin black paint.
Yeah, I tend to overthink such things. I’m sure clean bare embossed metal would have sealed just fine. I even thought of using FIPG by brushing it on both sides but thought that would be really messy and I’d probably apply too much of it. I tested the spray copper on a piece of cardboard and it dried like silicone and was flexible.
That’s correct, it does make me feel better and everything is being done only when I have no other important things to do, so I can’t say I wasted my time. Once this manifold is put back together, it will probably sit forever before I decide to use it, maybe I’ll wait til I actually have to remove the current manifold for some other reason like resealing the VP. Until then, I can’t match the ports.
Would measuring max maf reading be a way of measuring any kind of gain?
12-28-22, 12:31 PM
the black coating has flaked off in some spots.
