Dealarr

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If you are in Auckland/New Zealand, you will know this is the pre-Silverdale BP off ramp exit and it has an incline, so this car is actually showing power climbing uphill. It was 24 degrees as well, not cold. More videos and help later to anyone who wants to power up their IS250 worldwide. She is smooth, strong and very very fun to drive with all factory errors corrected. That VVTI purr when it kicks in around 3-4K rpm with it's V6 roar through forced induction, and the power vibration signals comes through to the cabin, to the gas pedal and up your right foot. It's gorgeous, ask me for a drive in Auckland if you are not a believer. PM or leave a comment. Installed everything myself except one:

Power making mods:
-Intake sized superchargers x 3 in series (think tug of war, the more the better) using factory intake/airduct therefore complete cold air, doesn't rob any engine power either (IS250 already weak enough so I am converting electrical energy into kinetic energy, instead of robbing kinetic energy from engine to produce more kinetic energy). Runs off the TPS therefore the more the pedal is pressed, the harder it spins. This is the main bread and butter. I am designing a supercharger system that fits inside the factory intake tube, so people can buy the intake and just plug and play, take it off and install your old one for whatever reasons, driving the girlfriend's parents maybe. You will feel a big difference straight up otherwise money back obviously.
-IAT varying resistor chip, as there is actually cold air being forced in, with oxygen sensor spacers on downstream wideband 02 sensors with a medium choke. This made a huge difference. Remember how your IS250 feels strong and fast when it's cold? (Although not recommended by itself as the IS250 runs hot in hot weather, could risk detonation. As I am pumping cold air in my case is alright, and the intake black manifold feels cool even after a drive. Planning to get an oil cooler later for engine and tranny).
-Throttle Controller set on Auto (Really ties it in well).
-Honeycomb mesh in airbox right in front of MAF Sensor stops turbulence, this is what creates the majority of your CEL's. Found out the hard way.
-Drilled through first stage cats with second stage cats still in place. (Power output increased noticeably past 100km). Didn't lose any scavenging effects in terms of power lost, didn't lose torque from back pressure lost as 2nd stage cats still in place and burning off contaminants. If you are doing this make sure you get some good exhaust flange that is at least 56MM ID, as the IS are famous for leaky mid pipes. But if you get exhaust flange, I doubled up mine so it's thicker, two Permaseal one's from Repco, with abit of heat resistant gasket between the plates and the exhaust outer perimeter. Tighten the four bolts hard, i replaced mine with Champion High Tensile ones. If you don't do this, you will smell unburnt gas and the car will throttle itself into slight limp mode.

Oil burn carbon fix:
-Secret method of cleaning carbon on intake valves (Steam while engine running, oil change after, you have to otherwise engine drink carbon juice. You can also try the validity of this by buying real cheap engine oil and normal engine oil you use. Do a normal oil change with cheap oil first, steam machine from Kmart using distilled water through the brake booster port, the engine needs to be operating temp for the micro explosion of steam hitting valve stems to pucker off carbon bits. The cheap engine oil you just put in will be filthy, you can later use a bore scope camera to check your valves). This everyone knows is where our catastrophic engine failure will come from, if carbon on the valves gets too thick and chunky. It could snap the valves or fracture them. Steam actually softens up the carbon deposits, so it doesn't lob off huge solid chunks we might get with other valve cleaners and have that hit the valves opening and closing.
-Dual oil catch cans with one fuel filter on the PCV valve for efficient filtering to prevent further build up.

Suspension and others:
-Mace Engineering coils and Denso Iridium spark plugs gapped to 1.1.
-KYB Gas A Just with Tanabe NF210 Springs. Works really well after breaking in. Firm and not bouncy.
-RCF lower control arm bushings(Garage changed this one), corrects your steer to the left tendency and corrects tyre bite. Original ones way too soft that is why IS250 gets inner tyre wear.
-Intake airbox fins levelled using a steelfixer's snips, easy as with long handles. F Sport type openings with a drill. They are both plastic boxes. Normal and F Sport. Spending more money in my point of view don't make another plastic more superior.
-Full transmission fluid change, running the squid ink black juice till clear pink with a 12v oil extractor with it's use reversed (6 bottles of Penrite ATF LV, wasn't cheap. But full synthetic rather than mineral oil WS). If these existing black oils in the tranny sloshing around for 100k, 150k plus are so good for the car, lets cook some more ATF and refill some in. Spending more money with a luxury brand doesn't give us spacesuit protection from being taken advantage of, or it could be internal company competition leading to negligence, we'd be naive to think it doesn't exist if healthy competition turned nasty, otherwise the world will be at peace. (She changes like a CVT now, in terms of smoothness, jokes, you can still feel power lurches).
-Bought a second hand ATF warmer with no pipes, undid the one on the tranny, shoved it up and stuck on the one bought. Tranny runs cooler, doesn't have problem warming up. When winter comes could swap around again. But I doubt it, never heard of a tranny needing warming until the new age. The ATF should take care of that with its additives and technology. Engines don't need warmers starting up so why do tranny's? They are all rubbing metal parts. Planning to get tranny cooler like Thann. Remember, heat kills automatic transmission. ATF Warmer, records of IS250 transmission seizing up or showing CEL's across the world. Money. Link the dots.
-Big 3 upgrade
-Bigger battery, 680CCA 140 RC, these are crucial, can't skip for superchargers.
-Bigger alternator, 150Amp, same can't skip this for superchargers, when I only had one supercharger, my factory alternator burnt out one day after awhile. As you all know the factory alt supplies just enough amps to everything else in the car, the superchargers are now 30A x2 16.5 x1 amps. Therefore at full throttle three superchargers are running at a juicy 76.5A in theory. Nothing in our car exceeds 76.5 draw, remember factory alternator can only supply 90-100 Amp max.
-Boost gauge just to check if superchargers are still working close to 2 PSI, will confirm after more O2 sensor modification (IS250 is a high compression engine in it's 4grfse, doesn't need as much boost as a normal compression car to get it going. Infact you can think an EVO or WRX with lower boost but with a higher compression stroke, effectively it is boosting more since the pistons are pressing into the air harder, like a turbo would. But if not, then a bigger turbo is needed and so on and so forth).

If you are doing any tranny , o2 sensor or exhaust work you make sure you use the same safety steps as i have in the picture where the front wheels are on ramps and rear are on stands, with the jack placed as a fifth point beneath the car supporting a brace near the rear diff. SAFETY FIRST. This is bare minimum, if you want, put jack stands all around like a castle fort. Jokes, but safety is paramount. If you don't have a hoist and have raised the car on your supports, it is better to push the car on the side and jump around in the seats to make sure it is safe before you get underneath it.

Will update with more progress as I work out a knowledge bank and system on how to help others, this took time and money to figure out.

Dealarr

Tidying posts, mod consolidated all my posts

Dealarr

Tidying up posts, mod consolidated all my posts

Spricky

Hmm, very interested read, I am following

Luke27617

iTrader: (2)

Deleted my comments. May not be helpful

Dealarr

You were perving at my post must be, that's alright AHAHAH

Thannp

Looking forward to see more about your supercharger. Will it work for IS350 or the efficiency will be low since the engine is bigger? And do you plan to dyno it to see the number?

Regarding, the transmission cooler. Its has been more than a year since the installation. I still find no problem losing the warmer system but I live in a warmer climate temp does not go lower than 25c often

Dealarr

Yea need to keep working to make more hah! It will work for any car that has a giant air pump for an engine. Even a turbo car to fix Turbo lag, because it spins immediately and delivers thrust as soon as you foot hits the gas. Our transmission heats up fast because it is so close to a hot engine. But of course the bigger the displacement, the bigger the superchargers and the controllers up to a certain point before redesign on the controller or the superchargers to make it more efficient.

See with Electrical power, it is not limited to engine speed and pulley size. With one supercharger, it could be very difficult to pull air and push air (create PSI in manifold) on it's own, but with one I already noticed differences. So think of tug of war but with a solid stick running through the chargers, the more chargers you have in series, the easier it is for the other existing ones to spin faster and stronger and you create more PSI every one you put in. When say 5 superchargers and 10 superchargers (for example, over exaggeration) would make no differences in a higher displacement vehicle, then a larger supercharger or more power controller is to be redesigned.

Dormer23

Mate, where did you get this kit from? Im also from Auckland and know exactly where this is. Thats a awesome mod.

Dealarr

Removed videos for future purposes:

Dealarr

You Tube

Dropped to 2 superchargers with 2x new 30A ESC. Instead of 16.5A x3 = 49.5A. It is 30A x2 = 60A. No launch PWR on. 8 Secs 0:12 - 0:19 on incline from idle rpm. Car just went through a battery off reset, so it is still learning, might drop back one 16.5A ESC for the 3rd charger. We will see.

Dealarr

Yes. The factory alternator burnt out, which was rated at 90- 100 Amps. Now the alternator does not change, when we choose options for our cars, GPS screen, heated seats and extras. All those little bits as we choose our luxury options all chew at the factory Amp when all turned on, now when you add all of them up, the factory top spec option at the time, was pushing the factory alternator to it's limit. I broke it.

But now that is 150 AMP which am sure you saw above, it works perfectly in sync with the increasing RPM nature of the superchargers. It only spins harder as it goes up in RPM, which means there are no draw at low revs. At higher revs, the 150A perfectly supplies the car with enough. However I would like a 200 or 250A model even though i know 150a is sufficient currently.

Dealarr

You Tube

Dropped to 2 superchargers with 2x new 30A ESC. Instead of 16.5A x3 = 49.5A. It is 30A x2 = 60A. No launch PWR on. 8 Secs 0:12 - 0:19 on incline from idle rpm, 19 degrees. Car just went through a battery off reset, so it is still learning, might drop back one 16.5A ESC for the 3rd charger. We will see.

IS350mumba

better get the 350

Dealarr

Bahhaa, What if I took your keyboard away? How fast can you type then.
Those that own IS250's will know they are seriously lacking some fun when they see the vid, and can be done to ALL other petrol cars so to speak. Do you even see the business implications across the whole world Mr. Yea we will hire you (crickets)