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Temperamental idle, gotta figure this out... Problem? it's sporatic and intermittent. I drove my SC in the rain for the 1st time during my ownershio, since my truck is acting temperamental as well. 2 days ago I got a strong smell of burning rubber. I figured it was another car who blew out going the opposite direction. Filled up the cabin with the smell, got a secondary faint dose a couple blocks later. No more smell...
Today I took it to Pasadena about an hour away from where I live. Ended stalling out on the freeway in traffic, was able to pull 1 whole lane to the shoulder. Got it started right away and continued to my destination, being early I played with accessories to test the idle, turned on/off the AC and radio separately and lightly released the gas pedal until the idle almost died and gave it gas, so no change. Idle was at the lowest line, with ECT Power on, so I had to hold the accelerator while holding the brake the whole time going to Pasadena, aka leg day.
Resolved the issue at the moment, turned off the ECT power and idle jumped to the normal level... Did not have any additional issue with idling. Went back on ECT power no issue with idling. Now does this mean there is an underlying issue with fuel delivery? Or are the injectors leaking? Or is the pump showing signs of dying?? Any guidance or suggestions is appreciated.
ECU is rebuilt so we can rule that out, for now. Fuel ECU appears to be functional at this point as well, I can bypass it and see if that works better, last time I shorted the wire and ended up stranded, and got the cops called on me.
Stalled out yesterday once again. Car was not driven day before, but it's made it 3 days in a row when it's been driven, that I'm running into a "cannon event" where I'm stalling out, but only under ECT Power mode. Regular driving with ECT Power mode off it's been acting normal with no issues. Anything I should be looking into? A relay? wiring? transmission ground? fuel pump? I posted a separate thread to this for better visibility.
Reached out to Tanin for suggestions referencing my current issue. In the meantime I'm starting with ECT off once I shift to "Drive" I turn it back on and it appears to be fine at this point. I'm perusing the 1st gen LS threads for some additional guidance.
I'll have to test fuel though. I usually fill up at Costco, but I may need to reconsider this as I do get a strong alcohol smell when I shut it off.... I may need to convert to the E85 option, but I see no real benefit, or fuel elsewhere with "100%" premium fuel like Shell, may need to check other stations for fuel blends. It's California so my options may be limited.
Well, after sitting for a week and a half, I started her up for a quick store run. Cold start is low, but on the 2nd line this time so.. 500rpm??
Anyway, I have a grind just under 1100RPM.. I took a quick vid, but it sounds worse than what it does in real life.
Sounds like a chainsaw, but it's only between 1050 and 1100RPM. More prevalent in the driver side wheel well. Hot start got a bit of a grind but started fine and idle came back to normal.
Will have to figure out how to upload a vid for context. Anyone have anything similar?
Got a whole lot of personal stuff arising and has kept me busy with life... My passenger door handle broke off. $60 at the stealership I was able to replace it, but I have questions as to how reinforce the bolt on holes. I have about 3 that are cracking or just holding on by hopes and dreams, to include the speaker
Additionally, I think I've figured out my low idle issue.. and I think is Costco gas.. 10% ethanol does not make this engine happy. Been going to the local 76 gas station and she has been idling fine. Got some gas a few dsys ago and I'm starting to encounter low idling..
Got a whole lot of personal stuff arising and has kept me busy with life... My passenger door handle broke off. $60 at the stealership I was able to replace it, but I have questions as to how reinforce the bolt on holes. I have about 3 that are cracking or just holding on by hopes and dreams, to include the speaker
Hey Tally, I'm in the middle of repairing a black interior. I could make a video showing you how I've repaired other parts if you'd like.. a mix of O.L.T.'s door repair posted on club lexus and 'plastic welding' using metal mesh and melting it into the plastic like rebar to concrete.
Hey Tally, I'm in the middle of repairing a black interior. I could make a video showing you how I've repaired other parts if you'd like.. a mix of O.L.T.'s door repair posted on club lexus and 'plastic welding' using metal mesh and melting it into the plastic like rebar to concrete.
A video will help others as well.. I've see those plastic welding kits at harbor freight the other day, have thought about jumping on this rabbit hole as well.... My upper window trim is starting to crack as well, I may need to weld that from the inside as well.
. My passenger door handle broke off. $60 at the stealership I was able to replace it,
Hello Tallyhoe I have come up with that problem too. Got a crack in my driverside and probably will have to do something quick.
First I didn't even know they were available. Did you have to take your door apart to get to it and how hard was it to do. Did you have to get a whole new mechanism or just the handle
Thanks___Joe
Hello Tallyhoe I have come up with that problem too. Got a crack in my driverside and probably will have to do something quick.
First I didn't even know they were available. Did you have to take your door apart to get to it and how hard was it to do. Did you have to get a whole new mechanism or just the handle
Thanks___Joe
Hi Barbary,
Sorry for the delay, I had to get a whole new mechanism. They're about $65 in Cali shipped to my doorstep. I would shop around; I got mine off of Longo Lexus as there is no Lexus dealer for me in a 40 mile radius. It's pretty straight forward, I will post more pictures as my outside door handle stopped working, so I'll have to pull it out again, already ordered the plastic retainers for the door cables to the handle.
The door panel itself has about 8 10mm bolts. 2 Where the door meets the dash. 1 behind the door lock mechanism, 2 in the door pocket that hold the arm rest, and 3 at the bottom of the door. Once you pull that panel out there are an additional 4 nuts that will need to be removed to pull out the mechanism. 2 will be easy, but the side that holds the cables, those retainers will need to be removed to clear the last 2 nuts. They do require a bit of force to pull them out. Door lock retainer has teeth to it, so you will need to pull 1 or manipulate 1 to release that retainer.
Have you guys thought about doing the LS400 metal door handle mod? I did that years ago with mine and never had a problem since. Also the chrome handles look more premium imo
Have you guys thought about doing the LS400 metal door handle mod? I did that years ago with mine and never had a problem since. Also the chrome handles look more premium imo
Bruh, I will have to do this, gambling on these plastic ones, especially in this heat out here.... Is it all years though?? like the 89-2000?
Bruh, I will have to do this, gambling on these plastic ones, especially in this heat out here.... Is it all years though?? like the 89-2000?
if i remember correctly its 95-00. There are a bunch of guides on how to do it. its a little involved but nothing too crazy. It was one of the first mods I did to the car so if the noob me could do it, you can too lol
01-09-24, 06:23 AM
