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3.76 is a good all around ratio. The JDM Soarer's with 1JZ-GTE R154's always got a 4.08 final drive both with the original 1JZ-GTE parallel twin turbo and the later single turbo with VVT-i. The next steps down from 3.76 would be a 3.615:1 custom ring and pinion swap from a 1989-1994 Lexus LS400 (or Celsior V8 of the same model years) or a 200mm 3.26 ratio. What are the 1st, 2nd and 3rd ratios in that transmission?
That engine you have installed was actually my own first choice if not for other limiting factors I have. The low end torque is said to be extremely good making around 80% of max torque by 2400 or 2600 RPM. I think you'd be very pleased with either an upgraded CT15B or one of the available aftermarket 1JZ VVT-i specific upgrade turbos such as that Tomei Arms kit. With any of those options you should still benefit from the low end torque of the VVT-i system while having better top end.
I love that engine and hope to try one out at some point
53DZ ratios 1 - 5.080; 2 - 2.804; 3 - 1.783; 4 - 1.260; 5- 1.000; 6 - 0.835. If i remember correctly the original SC300 auto has a first gear ratio of 2.8, so yeah.
Anyway, I wanted to add some pictures of the rear diff with the new bushings but I must have forgotten to take them. I remember however that removing the rear diff bushings from the chassis was a real pain. My buddy ended up making a removal tool just to press them out. All the diff bushings were replaced with strongflex poly bushings.
Original diff bushing. You can see the rubber has cracked. Not too bad I quess but too soft for me. Rear LCA has seen better days.
Since I was chaging the diff I bought a poly bushings kit for the rear and changed most of the bushings there.
As you can see from all the rust and worn bushings that the car was cheap for a reason. But I figured since these cars are over 20 years old by now I would probably have to change things like bushings and LCAs even on cars that are in better overall condition.
Repurposing the automatic shifter parts. Steering wheel from an IS200.
The steering wheel is great. Its pretty, in great condition and its smaller and feels more sporty.
Well now we are getting to the good stuff. Its fun to read things like Yamaha and Toyoda on the 1J
Good work on repurposing the automatic shifter bezel. And the IS200 steering wheel is perfect in these cars, isn't it? I have the same one but with a USDM IS300 center airbag and non-button leather wrapped wheel from a 1998-2005 MR2 Spyder (exactly the same). It is slightly smaller in diameter than stock and feels sportier with a better resting positions for each hand. If you can locate a LHD SC black steering column cover or repaint yours to black it will blend that steering wheel perfectly with the tan interior. It made a difference in my tan interior SC with that steering wheel.
The stock SC300 Automatic factory final drive ratio was actually 4.272:1 in the U.S. and Canada. For the RHD Soarer 2JZ-GE 3.0L Automatic models it was probably the same or it could have been 4.083:1 just like the M/T SC300 and M/T Soarer 1JZ-GTE models. SC400 and Soarer 4.0L V8 models all got a 3.916:1 final drive ratio. All Soarer 1JZ-GTE Automatics got a 3.916:1 final drive ratio.
I love seeing that 1JZ-GTE VVT-i! Yamaha and Toyoda logos are always a welcome sight!
Hello,
I have enjoyed reading you thread both times and will probably read it again tomorrow. Your adaptor plate is stamped M20, M50, M52, S50, S52 etc. etc.. Evidently this means it will work with all the transmissions from these cars which go back to the to the late seventies 4 speeds from the e21 320 and 323i (both Euro with a six cylinder), 523i Euro and also the Seven series all with the small six. Five speed came out in '80 which was an option at that time. Not sure what year the five speed was standard. I have an ' 80 323i euro with a 4 speed and a '81 323i with 5 speed close ratio euro. When the e30 came out in '83 euro BMW was building a bigger and stronger transmission. They were again changed when the E36 model was introduced. And of course they did a little more. So with an adaptor like you have a person could adapt a 4, 5, or a 6 cylinder transmission ( small block) and that leaves the choice wide open for a manual conversion. Just beware of the early transmissions for their lack of strength compared to later ones. The very late models have got the best transmissions and have only seen a couple that went bad. This may help someone trying to make a decision about the adaptor plate. Good luck.
Since I have a 1998 Sc300 with VVTI the engine harness and the ECU pins are very similar to the JZX110 1JZ VVTI engine. I did get the engine harness for the 1J but decided that it will be easier to use the stock 2J harness then extend the 1J harness.
Here are the differences between the two engines and harnesses ( I may have forgotten a few):
1. Only one O2 sensor is used on the 1J and the pins match HTL and OXL1.
2. I moved the neutral from pin A24 to B13. I am using the solenoids from the auto to get rid of the check engine light. This wasnt a problem with the 2JZ ecu but the 1JZ ecu will throw a CEL because the speed sensor is not connected, the 2JZ didnt care about the speed sensor.
3. BOV to C12.
4. The fuel pump signal doesnt need a FP ECU anymore. And I used pin E5 that is connected to the fuel pump relay. (interesting thing is the fuel pump does not prime when nthe igition is switched on but it runs when cranking and when the enginge is running).
5. Power steering pressure sensor from pin A16 to B9. The stock 2-pin sensor is not suitable for the 1JZ ECU and I replaced it with a toyota 3-pin sensor that requires also 5 V power.
6. I depinned all unused pins.
7. The 2JZ has two temp sensors. One for the ECU and one for the gauge in the dash. However the 1JZ does not have the dash sensor. Need to figure something out with that.
The turbo I got with the 1JZ had a lot of play in it. In my country I have to register the engine swap and the turbo must be original so I couldnt just bolt a bigger turbo on. I looked at the choices Kahn mentioned that will replace the original turbo with a similar but upgraded version. These options are quite expensive. So for the time being, just to get the engine started and get the engine swap registered I went for a risk and bought a replacement turbo cartridge from China.....for 60 bucks. It even came with a balancing sheet. Will see how it will hold up.
This is the temperature sensor I cannot use in the 1JZ block.
Swapped the oil pan from the 2JZ since the JZX110 comes with a front sump.
As you can see for now I am using the original airbox. The 1JZ MAF is connected differently then the 2JZ MAF so a modified MAF housing had to be made. My friend was a lot of help and installed the intercooler and piping (and basically does all the fabrication).
The glare in the last picture doesnt show it but the radiator is a Mishimoto with Mishimoto fans and shroud, they are for the Supra but with a little modification fits quite well.
The battery was relocated to the trunk with 2 gauge wire. I still need to change the alternator wire for a bigger gauge.
The engine is running and the power difference is quite obvious. Especially torque at low RPM. However there are a few problems.
1. I have disconnected the power steering sensor. If the sensor is connected the RPM fall very low. If I turn the steering wheel the revs climb to about 1000 rpm. So for now I leave it unconnected.
2. Secondly, and the bigger problem, I have boost cut. I figured this will happen because my exhaust is much more free-flowing. I do have a high-flow cat.
At about 14 psi i hit boost cut. My plan is to remedy this using a standalone ECU. But this will happen maybe at the end of the summer. So in the meantime I think I will try a boost cut controller. This isnt ideal but since these engines run so rich I should have some room to lean it out. I found a schematic for a BCC on this forum and I think Ali even made a PCB for it. But as far as I know he did not get around to testing it. So my next step right now is to test the BCC on a bench first and then install it to the car.
This is an exciting build! Good job moving it along. Out of curiosity, why is the 1J preferred over the 2J? Not knowing, I would think 3L displacement would be preferred over 2.5L displacement.
Good question! In my case, because I originally had a 2JZ-GE VVTI version with the weaker rods, air-assisted injectors, over the engine intake manifold it didnt seem cheaper to Na-t it. And due to strict regulations here where I live Na-t isnt exactly legal also.
But between 1JZ-GTE VVTI and 2JZ-GTE VVTI I picked the 1J because its half the price. The prices for the 2JZ-GTE have been rising quite fast, atleast around here.
Actually the 2JZ-GTE VVTI was my first choice also but I couldnt justify the enormous price. But the 1J has its advantages. I think the specs say that the maximum torque is achieved at 2800 rpm, which is quite impressive. Also the shorter piston stroke should theoretically mean that it can rev higher. They are very similar in the end and both will put a smile on your face
^^ Maximum torque (stock) is actually reached at 2400 RPM Compared stock for stock to the older non-vvt-i 1JZ it is a very torquey and responsive engine. Being over-square vs the 2JZ's square bore and stroke it is a 7400 RPM rev monster in the older twin turbo non-vvt-i editions. The 1JZ-GTE VVT-i maxes out at 7,000 RPM. All 2JZ-GTE's have a stock redline of 6800 RPM.
The CT15B rebuild and upgrade options do tend to be a bit pricey but so I understand they will give a little more top end. See how that replacement cartridge works out first.
As for the dash cluster temp sensor, if there is nowhere on the engine for another water temperature sensor bung, consider an in-line sensor adaptor that you can fit into the middle of your upper radiator hose (which you have to measure and cut) and get the right thread and pitch for with an Earls adaptor. Mishimoto, Greddy and many companies make these. You may need to run an additional ground wire to the adaptor with a little ring terminal that can fit just above the threads of the sensor.
Here's an example. My 2JZ-GTE has factory locations for both the ECU coolant temp sensor and the dash coolant gauge sender but I wanted a separate water temperature gauge in my center console with its own sender so this is how I did it.
This is an old fashioned VDO sender for one of their classic style gauges. The little wire with the blue heat shrink is the signal wire and just underneath it is a ring terminal with some washers connected to an additional wire for the ground to complete the circuit. The thin plastic conduit wrapped in electrical tape makes it hard to see that there are actually two wires. I zip-tied the wire to another loom on the engine to keep it from getting anywhere near the accessory drive belt.
If this sending unit were installed on an engine block or cylinder head there would have been no need for the ground wire.
Maybe this method can help you solve that issue? It works well for me.
Thank you Kahn. I appreciate that you always give in depth answers. The coolant temp sensor in-line with the hose seems to be the easiest solution to implement.
Good question! In my case, because I originally had a 2JZ-GE VVTI version with the weaker rods, air-assisted injectors, over the engine intake manifold it didnt seem cheaper to Na-t it.
That makes sense. I know my older son was going to build a 1UZ and preferred the '93 block over the vvti block because of the thicker rods. I have a '99 and don't plan to build it beyond stock. Can't wait to see how this turns out!
12-07-20, 04:18 AM
Compared stock for stock to the older non-vvt-i 1JZ it is a very torquey and responsive engine. Being over-square vs the 2JZ's square bore and stroke it is a 7400 RPM rev monster in the older twin turbo non-vvt-i editions. The 1JZ-GTE VVT-i maxes out at 7,000 RPM. All 2JZ-GTE's have a stock redline of 6800 RPM.
