Looks good. You may want to see if you can tuck that line near the plastic. Not sure if the hood rests there or not.

Steve

 

That's how it sits in the instructions. It does not seem to get pinched by the hood or rub, but I haven't driven the car yet to see if it rubs while driving.

Taking the car to get dyno'd Friday, I should be able to tell for sure by then.

 

Looking good! On the air/oil separator, how did you know you need it?

 

Because of data. It's preventative maintenance mod. Without the AOS dirty oil [from the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)] gets sent back into your motor to be reburned. I believe it's done that way for cleaner emissions without caring for the motors longevity. You'll see that AOS fill up on a track day. If you're not tracking, then just empty it every oil change.

Should pair the AOS with RR Racing's intake tube to eliminate the valve cover venting. The stock tube has hoses to allow the valve cover venting back into the intake manifold. The Lexus IS F CCS-R (Circuit Club Sport Racer) intake also has the valve cover venting eliminated.

The reburning of the oil results in carbon buildup.

 

None of this is proven, and none of it exists on my IS F with 180k+ miles and at least a half dozen track weekends. Venting the valve covers to atmosphere means you're pulling unmetered air through the engine via the PCV system with the AOS in the circuit. The CCS-R engine was tuned to take this into account. Your street engine is not tuned to assume a very large air leak is present, and will adjust itself to compensate as best it can using the wideband sensor immediately before the first cat or in the collector of your headers if you've eliminated the cats.

I asked Rafi a long time ago to show me KCLV datalogs from before and after the AOS to prove it actually reduces knock from oil getting burned. I never got a reply, nor did RR Racing post anything here related to actual data from engine operation. Filling up a coalescent filter with blowby isn't hard at all, and the rate it fills will be directly related to humidity because the bulk of the coalesced liquid is water, not oil. I have repeatedly asked those with an AOS to have their fluid analyzed, a few have said they would, but in the end no one has reported on their findings on the forum or privately to me.

There may be value in something like this under track conditions, and illwillem has some compelling arguments for this in his IS F track build thread. There is no value in it driving on the street, and I have the used oil reports to show it.

 

I've had mine for about 3000 miles and drive the car relatively hard....sometimes. I don't abuse it, but I do take it out on spirited drives from time to time. I think for a track driven GS-F, it's a must. For us street guys - probably not so much. Mine is maybe 1/3 full of stuff that does look mostly like oil after 3000 miles. It's hard to tell though without actually emptying the contents. Contrast this to my old BMW that had the N54 engine. Driven the same way I was emptying the entire catch can full of oil every month or so. This was due to a very poorly designed PCV/Valve cover system. The N54s were known for this and would eventually mean one had to "walnut blast" their intake valves and intake ports every 20-30K miles to clean the carbon build up off the valves and ports caused by the oil residue if you didn't run catch cans. The Lexus doesn't suffer from this issue.

The RR design is sealed so you shouldn't be introducing any unmetered air, however, I am not sure this is a necessity for 99% of us guys that just run them hard on occasion on the street.

Steve

 

I think the unmetered air is for the people who delete the hoses on the intake elbow and route to the atmospheric vent at the back of the motor. Something I have no intentions on doing.

My KCLV's were 23's at best without the air oil separator and before I got headers. I doubt to see any change honestly. But when I did open up the PCV line there was a good enough trace of oil there to make me happy I purchased the AOS.

I'll see what my KCLV's are when I go to the dyno on Friday. As of late they had dropped to 21.4 the night I had my headers installed. And they haven't gone up since. But there's so many variables I don't bother to waste my time trying to figure out the logical reason on the variation.

 

The only fair way to test using KCLV is to install a bypass around the AOS and run with the bypass open, then run with it closed, same day, same fuel, same course, same driver. Even then I think you'll not find much difference. The PCV system in the 2UR is far more elaborate than the typical check valve and hose affair the vast majority of street use engines run.

When I had the manifold off to fix the valley plate leak on my IS F, there wasn't any unusual carbon build up on the intake ports or valves. Most of this is because the 2UR has both direct and port injectors. I'd bet a lot of money had they used only DI, we'd see the same coking issues with the 2UR as we see on the 4GR (2.5 L V-6).

Steve is correct, a properly installed AOS without rerouting the air intakes for the valve covers won't introduce any unmetered air, except that a number of owners have had problems with air leaks especially in the earlier iterations. That's truly the last thing you want, so if you decide this is a need, make absolutely sure the connections are good and not leaking air. If they leak, it's unfiltered air directly into the manifold, bypassing the throttleplate, so it's used preferentially. Not something anyone wants to run for an extended period.

 

Yesterday I was able to get my car dyno’d again with the addition of the PPE UEL headers. Now of course the weather was about 30° warmer than it was the last time I went and pretty muggy outside. The car literally didn’t make any more power than before. And actually lost some power throughout the earlier powerband. I found this interesting as I expected to see at least 21whp gains over the last dyno.

I will state now that this car is not tuned, not running E30 mix, and my KCLV was 23.9 on the dyno. I have never disconnected the battery on the car since I got it until last night. I never read that being a major thing with these cars. So I never did it. I highly doubt that would change the results. However I did disconnect the battery last night for about 10 minutes, let the car relearn while it was warming up and took it for a quick spin. The car felt much more responsive, I didn’t bring my dragy out to test it at the time because I just wanted to see if it would feel different. And it did. I brought it home and waited until it got later and went back out with the dragy.

The car went from a 11.65 60-130 to a 11.47 60-130 from before and after the headers. With about a 20° or more difference in temperature. So it’s definitely moving in the right direction. And I encountered a F87 M2 with catless downpipe/tune making 408/439 and we got two really good runs in from 50mph. I lost both but I started gaining ground in him from 120+ until we let off at 150ish. He only had me by a car and it was from the initial hit. Then he would just sit right there dead locked until 120 before I started pulling him back in.

Anyways, here’s these meager results from the dyno visit.

 

Here’s a video with sound clips:

 

This is upsetting news friend. Perhaps dyno earlier in the day with cooler air once the ECU has adapted?

 

I live in Louisiana, that was the cool air for the day.

 

Any update with the gainless headers? This is really forcing my hand to get a Zupra and be done with it.

 

He stated on Facebook that he reset the ecu and the car felt quicker. No dyno information though. I'd think this car would have made 420-430whp with addition of the headers.

Steve

 

Yea car is definitely faster with the headers, I used to get beat by my buddies RC F and now I pull on him.

I’m not going to go back to dyno it again until maybe later this spring just because at this point I’m not really worried about a number. Car definitely performs better. Headers are worth the money for sure.