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So that pin don't need to come out for the engine to come off. I don't know why, but the whole assembly was hanging up on the throwout bearing, which was pushing hard against the clutch throwout arm, which made me assume that the arm needed to be freed/the throwout bearing carrier was retained to the input shaft. You really just need to pull the 6 bolts from the pressure plate and be patient while separating the engine from the transmission. Wiggle it on and off a couple times and it'll free itself.
I want to thank whoever it was at Honda of Sanford in the spring of 2012 that made the call to replace the clutch kit in the black IS250. I didn't mic it, but I'd say we still have 6.5 to 7mm of clutch disk left of the factory 7.5mm. Lots of good clean copper contact on both sides. That setup woulda taken the car to a quarter million miles, had psycho boy here not wanted to breathe smoke...albeit, a miserable-to-shift quarter-mil, but still...
Put my QA inspector hat on today and made sure everything's kosher for me to close up. Aside from some nonstructural corrosion that I'm not sure I'm going to address, everything's looking good to hook. Might wanna grab some evaporust to soak the fasteners in...
Still gotta bolt the SL25A to the 3GR; will be using the ACT disk I got with the T015x (or maybe 14, don't quote me on that now...it's the Mk4 V160 one) and the Luk pressure plate that came with the car to get it moving before coming up with a delay valve delete. Engine and trans mounts are friggin sponges, so I'm waffling on going with the megan engine mounts I have on hand. Was gonna save them for the pipe dream Camry-headed *GR choo-choo engine build, but I'm now convinced that these transmissions fail from being allowed to move on their mounts too much, and the engine mounts clearly contribute to it. I'll be replacing the existing trans mount with the OE that I have on hand while I'm finishing the engine install, but I'm not going to stay on the OE mount...might be testing my theory on the Kein IS300 mounts.
Also, I can't find my red loctite. Ain't bolting up a flywheel without it...
Pilot bearing doesn't want to come out of the 2.5 in working order, so I'm in holding pattern/tinkering time until new one shows up...I wanna tackle the clutch delay valve, but I hate that it's tied into the brake reservoir.
Guess I'll be doing wheel bearings this go-round after all, since I'm going to be bleeding brakes, anyway...fkin engineers, man...
Edit: here, have a photo...gonna be cleaning my albums up sometime in the future to make room for when I swap the Head Games heads onto the 2.5, and I bumped off the cap a while back from redundant pics...
and no, I didn't vac the AC down yet.
Quick note to those thinking about going to -350 brakes on their -250: what you see in that brake reservoir is what's left when you leave the system sealed, pour the fluid from your small calipers into the big ones, then do a quick bleed. Been like that for 4 or 5 years.
I left the top on because brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, which is why you see the insides of brake lines rusting, despite being sealed systems. I had intended to to a full fluid pull after the big brake swap, but got tied up with the dust shields and couldn't intentionally activate ABS (let alone boil fluid), so I called it good. That fluid should be 15 years old. The bottle of DOT 4 I was gonna put in there got used for heat treating gun parts.
I'll never work for Toyotacorp, but my assumption is that all of their work instructions go something like this:
Steps 1-297: disassemble entire vehicle down to it's umpteen million component parts
Step 298: replace offending component
Steps 299-1,275: troubleshoot and replace all umpteen million now-broken component parts, because they were never meant to be uninstalled.
Seriously. This whole thing's meant to be built, sold, and thrown away, nothing else. If you get your warranty's worth of use out of it, cool. Screw you for trying to care for and maintain it like you would one of their competitor's machines.
No matter how much measuring and head-scratching you do, you're not getting a fully dressed engine in that engine bay from the top with the hood on and the transmission in. The catalytic converters are just the right diameter to not get the engine past and onto the mounts, and the hood is just the wrong amount of open to get enough of a nose-up condition to get the cats past the trans bellhousing.
You know how everyone's always complaining about nobody having common sense anymore? This is that. Common sense among the consumer of 4-wheeled rear-wheel-drive highway vehicles worldwide for more than a century now has been that the engine comes out and goes in through the engine opening. Kaizen manufacturing throws all of that away in the name of making a leaner production line to maximize profit. If you work for a company that operates on kaizen, you don't get to complain about others' common sense, because what makes sense to you is fundamentally not common...what makes sense to you merely makes more money in the moment. I think we've already established that I'm the kind of guy that refuses to spend $30 on a thing when he can expend $600 of resources and 2 years making a worse version of that thing on my own. As a kid, I used to admire those old guys who could take apart and fix anything...kaizen will engineer that aberration out of the population before I'm dead.
This is what Carl Sagan was going on about.
Spoiler
Yeah, I'm pretty buttmad. Engine's been in the air 3 times now, only to end up back on the concrete. This isn't a 4th gen F-body with the last 2 cylinders under the firewall and the bellhousing bolts protruding into the cabin, but it certainly wants you to wheelie the car onto the subframe like one.
So the Whiteline W53622 aren't going in. Bought the press I didn't want and all the junk I need to do it right, took it easy for a few days by not giving the setup full force, figured it wasn't getting any straighter, went full Bill O'Reilly, wrote it myself, went live, now the bushing and arm are unserviceable. I wouldn't have been successful even with the 50 ton air-over-hydraulic rig at the shop that doesn't like me anymore, because the damage was shielded fully by the aluminum blocks I was using to parallel/stabilize the holes...the inner holes need a pretty significant amount of cleaning up--and you might as well chamfer the daggone thing--because the steel collar of the new bearing sheared off a nice 1/3 circle needle from the ID of the inner hole before a bending/manufacturing edge burr in another part of that hole dug into the sleeve and bent it in a way I'm not going to be able to bend back. I got three more good bushings to figure out the preferred technique for these things, but I'm probably just gonna dremel the holes until they mic out the same as the new bushing sleeves, then peen them in place. I wasn't crazy with my allthread setups...I could feel when something was dragging with them...
I'd post pictures of how things are, but they got thrown somewhere into the yard, I'll find them tomorrow. If I can be bothered. I'ma go kick a tree and get killed by a branch or something.
At the frame shop I worked at moons ago, there were some tough nuts. I don't recall metal arms flying while exceeding interference fit bushings... Be safe man! Trees can be mean!
Originally Posted by Ultra4
If I ever meet an engineer who designs automotive electrical connectors, I will happily be pleading guilty at my murder trial.
That's the whole reason I won't officially work for any automotive shop, if I have to disconnect anything electrical, it's 50/50 if the connector will survive. My favorite part about all these Toyotacorp connectors is when the serrated tab you're supposed to push breaks and gouges a good 1/8" deep pit in your finger. I'm down to using my pinkies and one ring finger trying to get the harness from one to the other engine. 3 fingernails got ripped, too, but I'm a nail-biter, so that's kind of on me. Yes, I'm wearing 9mil nitrile gloves. Had to spend a half hour brake-cleaning blood off the engine and floor because I made a blood balloon in a finger of a glove and another connector popped it.
This is why you guys have only gotten at most like 40% or so out of me since Head Games. None of my WECSOG projects are anywhere near this asinine.
More blood? I hear ya. Pressure to unlock, pressure to separate, pressure to make one's self. More is never better. Dare we ask what was being so stubborn?
Originally Posted by Ultra4
To the guy who thought this was a good place to put one of those permanent plastic one-time-use wire keepers on this stud under the HPFP:
I hope you have to watch everything you've loved and cared about slowly die.
All electrical connectors and wire keeps. The notable ones were the one going to the oil pressure sensor (had to remove the AC comp and make 2 tools to actuate the retention device), the handful on the back of the engine, and some of the VVT stuff...all of the connectors that have been exposed to the environment of forced air under the hood, thus oxidized and became brittle. The wire keeps are just a bad idea from inception which ensure that a wire harness can't be re-used without having new parts thrown at it. Or leave it flopping. Both the marine and aviation industries have re-usable clamp stackups for this purpose...apparently Toyota thinks this engine (with at least 8 superfluous 10mm steel bolts holding things to the intake, completely ignoring all the steel bracketry they use to hold the harnesses) is more weight-critical than an aircraft engine. At least, that's what single-use wire keeps tell me. Either that, or the whole thing's considered disposable and they used the cheapest imaginable parts.
My idea was: take the parts off the 2.5 that I need to put the 3.0 into service, dress the 3.0, pull the 2.5, stab the 3.0 in with everything already torqued-up, just hook up the harnesses, cooling, fuel, exhaust, and fire. I was using a seat belt tied to the factory exhaust manifolds to lift the engine, but because the cats don't clear the bellhousing, now I've got the intakes off the 3.0, with the seatbelt sandwiched between the heads and the JDM SCV manifold that I can't use for lack of SCV position sensor. Gonna pull the exhaust manifolds and get the stab today.
All electrical connectors and wire keeps. The notable ones were the one going to the oil pressure sensor (had to remove the AC comp and make 2 tools to actuate the retention device), the handful on the back of the engine, and some of the VVT stuff...all of the connectors that have been exposed to the environment of forced air under the hood, thus oxidized and became brittle. The wire keeps are just a bad idea from inception which ensure that a wire harness can't be re-used without having new parts thrown at it. Or leave it flopping. Both the marine and aviation industries have re-usable clamp stackups for this purpose...apparently Toyota thinks this engine (with at least 8 superfluous 10mm steel bolts holding things to the intake, completely ignoring all the steel bracketry they use to hold the harnesses) is more weight-critical than an aircraft engine. At least, that's what single-use wire keeps tell me. Either that, or the whole thing's considered disposable and they used the cheapest imaginable parts.
My idea was: take the parts off the 2.5 that I need to put the 3.0 into service, dress the 3.0, pull the 2.5, stab the 3.0 in with everything already torqued-up, just hook up the harnesses, cooling, fuel, exhaust, and fire. I was using a seat belt tied to the factory exhaust manifolds to lift the engine, but because the cats don't clear the bellhousing, now I've got the intakes off the 3.0, with the seatbelt sandwiched between the heads and the JDM SCV manifold that I can't use for lack of SCV position sensor. Gonna pull the exhaust manifolds and get the stab today.
One man engine stabs on a MT are a PITA. 2X so if the trans output shaft can't be spun to allow the pair to engage again.
Am I correct here, do you also have bone yard 2.5 long block you're stealing parts from or no?
And to your knowledge, 2.5 / 3.0 heads are swappable? Minor change in C/R? I've looked at the 3.0 bore size or block stats. I need to understand what came from where.
I have two *GR engines on hand, both 6-injector, the 2.5 that came with the car and a 3.0 from Japan. It would take a cool minute for me to tally up ALL the 2IS parts I have...I bought an entire JDM 4GR electrical system in 2019, which is why I know JDM wiring is different than US, and was originally approaching this engine from an overclocker's perspective. I have 2 superfluous sets of 4GR heads on hand. Valves, springs, rockers, and seals out the wazoo. Clutches and flywheels. Brake stuff. Aftermarket braces that might not get installed. Intakes. The difference between me and a hoarder is that I actually interact with and move my hoard around, constantly repurposing and learning things...hoarders are just consumers that don't throw away what they consume.
The exhaust ports on the 3GR are the same shape as on the 2GR, not the oval port like on the 4GR. Everything except for the casting inserts for the air paths seems to be exactly the same between 4GR and 3GR heads...and even then, I suspect just the exhausts are different. Not pulling the 3GR heads until after Head Games heads pass/fail first fire.
Do you have any pics of maybe pulled injectors? I would like to see how much carbon would be accumulated on the spray nozzle. Preferably bank 1 injectors.
Do you have any pics of maybe pulled injectors? I would like to see how much carbon would be accumulated on the spray nozzle. Preferably bank 1 injectors.
I have quite a few injectors on hand, actually. Haven't touched them but to pull from junkyard heads. When this origami puzzle of a frontend is back together, I'll hunt the tray down.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Do you know what they did to drop the CR on the 3.0?
I have quite a few injectors on hand, actually. Haven't touched them but to pull from junkyard heads. When this origami puzzle of a frontend is back together, I'll hunt the tray down.
3GR-FSE is 11.5:1
3GR-FE--the port injected one--is 10.5
Compression from 3GR to 4GR is determined by piston. CR from -FSE to -FE is combustion chamber
Or so I've been assuming, anyway...
I'm thinking future you will determine this. That bump likely equates to more torquies.... I have a detailed CR calculator I wrote takes everything into account. But it's useless without accurate volume data for the head, piston (+/-), volume above top ring (includes piston to wall volume).
Let me know if you want it. Some data is in cc's from Corvair Clevland days...
Caught the tray out of the corner of my eye and Ministry of Silly Walked over to grab one. This one's probably the "worst" of the pile, but the coated nozzle tip still appears to be doing it's job. That ring of carbon on the uncoated part is the interface with the head...carbon there just seals it better. Not that I suspect any leakage.
07-04-21, 11:46 AM
