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Hi Nick
I don't think its the same car. If I remember that far back, it had a particular stance to it. It wasn't even a close up shot. Not many rsp SC's in the forum that I remember. Mine isn't one, the p in mine is for purple . The other fella and I still seem to recall that post. Its in here somewhere 🤷♂️
Thanks Kahn! I appreciate the compliments and I’m itching to get my wheels put on so people don’t assume there’s a retired foot surgeon driving it lol
I still don't think your RSP will give quite that impression, lol! However the new wheels will absolutely set it apart!
Originally Posted by CLass of 1
I made a new thread in the SC forum trying to seek help for an issue I’m having with my driver’s seat. It won’t go down. It goes up, but won’t drop back down. Is there a way to wind that seat down that you guys are aware of? My head touches the roof and it’s kind of uncomfortable!
Nick
Hmm... I'm not sure as I have not ever diagnosed issues with the factory seats however you may want to consider that one of the plastic gears inside the reclining mechanism has potentially shattered. A company called Gamiviti makes seat repair gears that fit a wide range of factory seats from Toyota/Lexus 90's and early 2000's models. I learned about them from some posts on Supraforums years ago after having purchased and installed my MKIV factory seats and so I picked up one of their 3D printed replacement gearsets. I have not had to find out if their product will cure an issue but I would say you have nothing to lose by purchasing one from them to see if it can cure your reclining problem.
As long as the seat recline motor still functions it should be worth a try. The motor itself may be theoretically rebuildable but by whom I couldn't say.
There also may be some issue with a worm gear drive/shaft needing additional spacing washers... but that is now purely me speculating off the top of my head with no research or evidence to back it up. Just another hunch since I have had a very very very minor factory seat track shift issue with my MKIV seats which might be related... but it's never been troublesome enough for me to look into.
Give Gamiviti's product a try first. There is nothing to lose since you're already having this issue.
Hi Nick
I don't think its the same car. If I remember that far back, it had a particular stance to it. It wasn't even a close up shot. Not many rsp SC's in the forum that I remember. Mine isn't one, the p in mine is for purple . The other fella and I still seem to recall that post. Its in here somewhere 🤷♂️
Yeah the RSP cars tend to stick in your memory, don’t they? I have failed to find the production numbers for my year/color. I wonder if you might know? Craig knows everything, so if you’re not sure he will have it for sure! Lol
Originally Posted by KahnBB6
I still don't think your RSP will give quite that impression, lol! However the new wheels will absolutely set it apart!
Hmm... I'm not sure as I have not ever diagnosed issues with the factory seats however you may want to consider that one of the plastic gears inside the reclining mechanism has potentially shattered. A company called Gamiviti makes seat repair gears that fit a wide range of factory seats from Toyota/Lexus 90's and early 2000's models. I learned about them from some posts on Supraforums years ago after having purchased and installed my MKIV factory seats and so I picked up one of their 3D printed replacement gearsets. I have not had to find out if their product will cure an issue but I would say you have nothing to lose by purchasing one from them to see if it can cure your reclining problem.
As long as the seat recline motor still functions it should be worth a try. The motor itself may be theoretically rebuildable but by whom I couldn't say.
There also may be some issue with a worm gear drive/shaft needing additional spacing washers... but that is now purely me speculating off the top of my head with no research or evidence to back it up. Just another hunch since I have had a very very very minor factory seat track shift issue with my MKIV seats which might be related... but it's never been troublesome enough for me to look into.
Give Gamiviti's product a try first. There is nothing to lose since you're already having this issue.
Thanks for that lead, Craig. I’ll seek them out if I can’t figure it out in my own. I need to get under there and take a look.
Originally Posted by - V -
Are you, in fact, a retired foot surgeon?
Maybe…either that, or a retired rock and roll superstar…or, a regional sales manager for a speaker company. I’ll let you guess which it is!
Yeah the RSP cars tend to stick in your memory, don’t they? I have failed to find the production numbers for my year/color. I wonder if you might know? Craig knows everything, so if you’re not sure he will have it for sure! Lol
Hahaha! I definitely don't know even close to everything about SC's! I do know that RSP was only available for 1997 and 1998 SC's. I think it's the same with RSP MKIV's but I don't know for sure. The guy who surely might know is Gerrb (Gerry)
Here's a good thread with all the paint color codes for our cars and their production years. Sadly no production numbers unless someone found them and posted them later in the thread:
Thanks for that lead, Craig. I’ll seek them out if I can’t figure it out in my own. I need to get under there and take a look.
Sure! The gear issue seems to be semi-common with 90's Toyotas and so I think that may be a good bet for solving your issue. The factory driver's side seat is a hefty 74lbs to lift out of the car
Hahaha! I definitely don't know even close to everything about SC's! I do know that RSP was only available for 1997 and 1998 SC's. I think it's the same with RSP MKIV's but I don't know for sure. The guy who surely might know is Gerrb (Gerry)
Here's a good thread with all the paint color codes for our cars and their production years. Sadly no production numbers unless someone found them and posted them later in the thread:
Sure! The gear issue seems to be semi-common with 90's Toyotas and so I think that may be a good bet for solving your issue. The factory driver's side seat is a hefty 74lbs to lift out of the car
Hahaha! I definitely don't know even close to everything about SC's! I do know that RSP was only available for 1997 and 1998 SC's. I think it's the same with RSP MKIV's but I don't know for sure. The guy who surely might know is Gerrb (Gerry)
Here's a good thread with all the paint color codes for our cars and their production years. Sadly no production numbers unless someone found them and posted them later in the thread:
Sure! The gear issue seems to be semi-common with 90's Toyotas and so I think that may be a good bet for solving your issue. The factory driver's side seat is a hefty 74lbs to lift out of the car
Wow! I didn't know they weighed THAT much. Makes me feel even better about dumping mine for the lite weight Corbeau's. The difference in handling was noticeable, but I did get rid of Both of them
Wow! I didn't know they weighed THAT much. Makes me feel even better about dumping mine for the lite weight Corbeau's. The difference in handling was noticeable, but I did get rid of Both of them
I believe both the SC driver and Passenger side seats are 74lbs. They both have basically the same features with the exception of seat memory on the driver's side only.
Comparatively my 93-96 style MKIV USDM seats weigh in at about 49lbs for the powered driver's side and 37lbs for the non-powered passenger side. When replacing both factory SC seats that does come out to roughly 62lbs of weight savings. However I think whether they should be replaced for some other style seats or not comes down to personal tastes.
I pieced together the rears with just a few bolts by hand. I need to polish each individual bolt before I can put them together. 30 bolts x 4 wheels, 120 total. Hoping I can knock it out with my bench grinder and a polishing wheel.
One of the fronts came with some blemishes on the inner barrels, so I’m gonna call CCW on Monday and ask them what the deal is. I won’t put them on there as they currently sit.
Tires should be in next week and then I can get them mounted up and install the coilovers and control arms. I’ve also got to tuck that wire harness in the wheel well. I’m not going to relocate it into the engine bay. I think it’s too much work and doesn’t look right. I’m going to do the tuck since I don’t plan on slamming the car anyway. We’ll see how it comes out…
Despite the blemish you need to have them address those custom wheels are looking very, very nice!! The installation is going to be great, doing the coilovers at the same time
If the fender wire harness won't be relocated into the engine bay (which is TIGHT on space as it is so I understand) then where would the next best location be for the extended wiring to go? While I'm aware of the importance of doing this I kind of just assumed the wires would be extended into the engine bay. But now that I think about it you make a good point about it not looking right in there. Maybe it just comes down to creative routing?
Anyway I'm excited for the next stage to commence!
Despite the blemish you need to have them address those custom wheels are looking very, very nice!! The installation is going to be great, doing the coilovers at the same time
If the fender wire harness won't be relocated into the engine bay (which is TIGHT on space as it is so I understand) then where would the next best location be for the extended wiring to go? While I'm aware of the importance of doing this I kind of just assumed the wires would be extended into the engine bay. But now that I think about it you make a good point about it not looking right in there. Maybe it just comes down to creative routing?
Anyway I'm excited for the next stage to commence!
I’m excited too, Craig!
I saw in a thread that guys were able to just un clip the harness where it is normally and then just push it up higher into the fender. There’s a little cubby almost higher up in the fender that you can kind of tuck it into and then zip tie. As a general rule, I don’t like using zip ties but in lieu of a complicated and ultimately unsightly harness relocation, I’ll make the exception!
In preparation for my first mods, I got the car weighed at a local alignment/race shop. They do corner balancing and race setups, so I had them throw the big girl on the scales so I have a baseline to go by. Here’s the result:
As you can see, 3,683 pounds. Nobody in the car. Nearly a full tank of gas. No mods whatsoever. All 12 discs in the CD changer
I did a little math and it comes to 53.6 : 46.4 front:rear weight distribution. When I eventually do a battery relocation to the trunk, that mod alone should move that needle to a roughly 52.5 : 47.5 distribution. Amazing how targeted weight savings can affect the number so drastically.
My ultimate goal is to reduce the weight sufficiently that any weight added through other mods will not make the car any heavier. I really don’t think I’ll be able to make the car much, if at all lighter than it is now, but I will do my best!
For those who are wondering, a full tank of gas is about 20 gallons. Gasoline weighs about 6.3 pounds per gallon, so if the tank were empty you’d be looking at a reduction of around 120 pounds, bringing it to 3,560 give or take. Not too bad, but could definitely be lighter.
Two rears are built and sealed. Will get tires put on this week. Front two inners came slightly scuffed up so I’m fighting with CCW to reimburse me for my time and money to sand them and clean them up. I’ll probably start building them tonight or tomorrow though. I need to clean up all the bolts first.
I can tell you that cleaning the bolts has been tedious and annoying but definitely worth it. You can’t really tell in pictures but in person they shine so much better. They match the new polished lips very nicely.
Very good oil analysis results for your engine! 166k miles on a well maintained 1UZ is really just scratching the surface of its lifespan.
3,683lbs with a full tank of gas sounds about right to me. SC400's were not the lightest SC's but it's really not bad weight at all for these cars. I think(?) it's also common to advertise the curb weight figures of new cars (in review magazines and publications) without the weight of a full tank of gas factored in.
Going off the officially published weight figure for a 1993 SC300 5-speed as my baseline I have roughly calculated after my engine swap, transmission change, seat change and a few other miscellaneous changes that removed a couple of pounds here or there I have a rough estimate of 3,600lbs or so at this point. I have been curious for a while now to get an accurate scale reading for my car to see what it really is.
Depending on what you choose to change on your SC from here I think it's entirely possible to improve on that full fuel tank scale figure without sacrificing luxury creature comforts. The 1GZ-FE V12 will add just a bit of weight as we discussed several posts back but it won't be too much once you have made it even out with some of your planned weight savings. 3,683lbs still isn't quite as heavy as some brand new muscle cars weigh today.
I hope CCW works out this issue with you in a timely manner so that you can strike the wheels off your big list of things to do and get your basic suspension setup dialed in.
Forgive me if I am not remembering something you already addressed in an earlier post but are you considering a change to the Supra MKIV TT rear sway bar in addition to the FA coilovers?
12-28-21, 09:19 AM
. The other fella and I still seem to recall that post. Its in here somewhere 🤷♂️
