CLass of 1

It’s got my mind running as well. Someone with a 3d printer could figure it out pretty easily I would think? It would just be a flat plate made to the shape of the manual shift bezel and a pre-determined shift pattern. Making the plate would be relatively easy, making sure those pathways were accurate and felt as they should…well that’s an entirely different matter isn’t it?

Nick

DrAtomica

Making the pathways accurate may not be much of an issue but I think that may be determined on a few things such as where the transmission is placed and what kind of position the shifter is in because there is no fixed position so it will vary, overall the it has to be a 1 of 1 item. I do have a 3d printer but I'm still learning how to design. Maybe I can make a mockup and send it to someone who can make it out of aluminum 6061 or some other light/cheap material. The SC has almost no flat panels and to have an important area such as that be flat may look out of place as well, so that should be considered as well. That being said I'm very tempted to think of a design.

CLass of 1

I forgot you had a 3D printer! That shifter bezel is only very slightly contoured. I would think you could account for it but you’d have to get it CNC’d if you wanted it perfect. But, having said that, I don’t think a flat panel would look bad. The upside is there for sure.

Nick

DrAtomica

Climate Control Repair LCD Repair - Part 1 of *

Decided to replace the LCD screen on the climate control, friend bought me one from Tanin Auto. They have two or three options, one is a replacement, one is inverted and the other is a ice cool blue background. Decided to go with the ice blue for the style points.
Dipped all the LCD solder points with flux and use a copper wire to suck it all up.





I'm almost sure this was the reason why my button lights weren't working, I'll try to fix otherwise find one in the junkyard if possible.


These are the halogen background bulbs which sit behind the LCD screen. Since my screen wasn't working properly I wasn't sure if the LCD or this was the issue


Removed the bulb caps for a closer inspection, the filament seems to be missing or broken, maybe this can explain why the LCD screen didn't have any background at night but I could see the icons in the daylight.
I will try to look for a replacement bulb, now the question is if I can find them them in LED. Will need to check which side is positive as well for polarity and see what voltage is needed for these bulbs.
I'm hoping to get a purple/magenta look on the background if possible, so I'll need a red bulb combined with this blue LCD for that effect.

DrAtomica

Flange Adapter
Got the flange adapter from XAT a few days ago, fits pretty good on the differential. This one is the 99.5mm diff adapter as mentioned in a previous post.
It's a billet piece but I do not know if it's been balanced or not, feels there is no excess weight on one side but that doesn't mean much. Now we just wait on the main piece to arrive, the driveshaft, and then the real testing will begin.

I'm still having issues with the clutch pedal where there is too much free play, I can hear the throwout bearing hit the pressure plate but the distance from it hitting throwout bearing and the pedal hitting reaching the end is maybe 2 inches which is not enough, so hopefully with adjustment we can eliminate freeplay so the highest point on the pedal starts when the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate or right before it does.

DrAtomica

Brake Pedal Install and Preparing Driveshaft
As you can see that the difference in distance between the Supra and SC300 pedal, there is a good 3-4 inches of difference where the Supra pedal is almost touching the firewall. As previously mentioned, maybe the bracket is different or has changed over the years but I'm here confirming that the two are DIFFERENT. Even install of the SC300 brake pedal was smooth, no needed to fight getting it in which I'm guessing its slightly slimmer. The pedal cover and size seem to be about the same so no difference there.


Brake pedal is now closer to the accelerator pedal and what's nice is that when you press the pedal slightly it lines up with the accelerator pedal which means that's great for heel & toe.
Clutch pedal engagement is not all the way, it's about 4 inches which seems to be a good zone. It feels like a bit like newer cars with a short distance of travel.


This is the single piece aluminum driveshaft that has been balanced from XAT/SupraStore. The size given to them was 50.75" but we'll see how it fits.
Tomorrow is the big day to install it and take it to it's first drive.
Will update with what happens.

CLass of 1

Great work! SC300 pedal for the win! Is the driveshaft anodized? Looks crazy in that purple color!

Nick

DrAtomica

We're Finally Here

The driveshaft install went pretty smoothly, added some loctite on the bolts for the driveshaft. Had to pry off the output cover from the CD009 since the yoke is a big too bad for the cover but I'll have to find a way to make some sort of a dust shield.
On a side note I'll be doing some R&D for aero undercovers for the SC but that will come later once I finish off some more maintenance items.

We made sure everything torqued down, I got in the car and started it up and checked if the clutch will disengage or not. Pressed it all the way and it was disengaging, all the way out and it's not grinding which is great!
Reversed it out but had to do it slow, the lightweight flywheel isn't the easiest to control but I think I just have to get used to it.
Right off the bat, putting it into first and going just a bit on the throttle you can feel the car just accelerate directly, to be honest at this point in my head I said "This car is no longer anything close to what it used to be".
The lowend torque with less than half of the throttle feels absolutely incredible, even punching it and going almost full throttle just feels way different than the auto, there is so much torque that is not going to waste, makes me wonder if that's why the auto trans got really hot.
I didn't get to drive too much because when I changed my brake pedal I put the incorrect spring, so it was slightly pushing on the brake and it was raining quite a lot, so once the weather is nice and I get the proper spring put in back we'll go again.
I'm really happy with the result so far, we made a lot of progress and did things properly.

Still need to put the center console and everything back together, make the wiring loom for the reverse switch ready and double check on other things so will update those when I get the chance





Yeah it's anodized and since the interior is not installed I can see the driveshaft spinning and its kind of cool seeing this purple shiny metal spin.

CLass of 1

Congrats on getting the car on the road!! I’m envious of your description driving it. I can’t wait to have a manual SC! Whether or not I still have the V8 is another matter, but we’ll see.

Any additional NVH that you can attribute to the single piece drive shaft? Curious about that one…

Nick

DrAtomica

Its quite the feeling, completely transforming a car. I've driven manual 300s and although it does feel better than the auto, going from auto to manual in the 400 is an entirely different thing. I guess there is so much unlocked torque that I didn't know existed before.

Can't say yet about NVH, I just drove it around the parking lot and some alleys. Still needs to be driven on the street and highway. So far for vibrations I didn't feel anything different, it actually felt better probably because of a new trans mount.
The exhaust is still not installed so can't tell if it's too loud but I can hear the transmission as of right now on low speeds just because interior is not fully there and I need a boot on the trans tunnel to cover it up.

CLass of 1

Let us know! Transmission noise shouldn’t be too bad as the stock transmission sounds like a damn space ship lol

Nick

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Congratulations on the successful first drive!! I'm very impressed that even the A650E 5-speed automatic became instantly outclassed by the 6-speed manual CD009. And that is with your stock 3.266:1 final drive ratio no less! That engine certainly has a lot of torque that gets soaked up by the automatic.

I would not be concerned about hearing transmission noise while your center console is still out of the car. The trans tunnel inner boot, outer boot and finally the center console and the cosmetic shifter bezel all do quite a lot to deaden both the sound and heat coming from the transmission tunnel's shifter opening. I immediately noticed this when I first had my R154 rebuilt and installed and began driving home with the center console still half disassembled. It could have also been because the bearings and synchros were all brand new but I noticed similar noise when I later did some troubleshooting with my short shifter and removed a lot of the console again before driving around to test my fixes.

Once it's all buttoned up again you shouldn't hear very much.

Your overall clutch engagement and disengagement and pedal effort is, I hope, exactly what it should be. Your highway NVH with the one piece driveshaft also hopefully will be fine. I'm curious to hear of how it does.

How many pounds is that custom made (for the application) lightweight flywheel? For sake of comparison an OEM Toyota R154 1JZ flywheel is 18.8lbs. The OEM W58 1JZ 2JZ-GE flywheel should be about 17lbs.

I'm happy for you after all of that meticulous work!! I know you have a fair bit left to do with the electrical side of it and possibly with the ECU side depending on how the piggyback transmission simulator unit works out.

DrAtomica

Thanks Kahn,

I'm sure when I drive on the highway It'll feel much better because as of right now I haven't tested gear 5 & 6, hopefully I'll get to experience the evenly spaced power range as I predict to be. You are right about the noise, there is tons of stock insulation that will cover it but I will also add additional insulation to really seal up that trans tunnel. The flywheel weighs at 13.5lbs which doesn't seem too bad but yet it feels hard to grab, now this can be just I'm not used to lightweight flywheels however I talked to another person running a similar setup although a different car and they mentioned they just have to blip it, step on the gas a bit more and it's fine. Maybe I just need more seat time till my muscles get used to it, guess I'll know after a bit of driving. I have to look at the diagrams again and look at the electric work, there may be a way to avoid codes just using resistors since the OBDII codes I'm getting are solenoid based and one VSS missing code.

DrAtomica

Speedometer Solution?
Seems like the 350z and G35 don't use a built in speed gear like other Toyota transmissions so there is no way for me to get a speed reading from the CD009.
I'm thinking to go the GPS route and but I'm still not sure if that will be a good idea or not.
The GPS unit looks something like this and there are others too which are similar but I do not know if they are compatible with the signal that the instrument cluster can accept.

Then the other question is the wiring as well, which wire is for the speedometer. Does it just need a single signal wire or does it need a ground as well, going over the diagrams I have found these two SP1 and SP2. SP2 is the one that seems to come from the auto transmission



I'm trying to get ideas as to what will be a efficient and easy method to implement this.

Edit:
Looks like I can tap into pin 13 but need to figure what kind of signal wave is accepted into that. If some voltage is sent to it then maybe I can wire up my own speedometer using an Arduino and GPS unit.

TG2000

You should be able to mount a tone ring and hall effect sensor to the driveshaft to replace the missing speed sensor from the transmission. Even though it's geared, it generates an electronic signal, which means it likely has a gear-driven reluctor wheel and a hall effect sensor inside. It's a matter of making a tone ring for the driveshaft that matches the quantity of teeth per rotation on the stock sensor.