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More downtime means more thinking. I'm not sure yet if I'll be using the ATM Emulator yet, for those who are not aware the ATM Emulator by All4Swap connects to your stock ECU and splices into your transmission connector as well. The purpose is to emulate the auto transmission shifting to let the ECU that everything is working as it should. When you start the car it puts it into P and when the emulator notices some revs it will change the gear from P/N to L or 2.
However is that all necessary? I'm not sure as of right now. There may be ways to simplify the wiring since I don't have to worry about TCS and VSC like in other 98+ Lexus vehicles.
NOTE: This wiring is not accurate, this was a quick view on the diagrams so please make sure and check the wiring, you can use this as a reference, every model and year will be different.
I'm finishing up a similar swap ('98 SC400, AR5) using the ATEMU. I've got it all wired in with the resistors, and I've got no CELs and everything seems cool on my test drives. Do your drive indicator lights in the dash light-up and switch with the revs, like you were saying, or is that your description of what the emulator is doing? I've got the R lighting up while in reverse, but no other lights while driving. I have the reverse light wired up like you did it, so I would assume that has it's own circuit.
This thread has helped me soo much throughout this swap. I appreciate it!
I'm finishing up a similar swap ('98 SC400, AR5) using the ATEMU. I've got it all wired in with the resistors, and I've got no CELs and everything seems cool on my test drives. Do your drive indicator lights in the dash light-up and switch with the revs, like you were saying, or is that your description of what the emulator is doing? I've got the R lighting up while in reverse, but no other lights while driving. I have the reverse light wired up like you did it, so I would assume that has it's own circuit.
This thread has helped me soo much throughout this swap. I appreciate it!
On other cars such as the GS, LS, IS, it looks like the lights do change from park to drive although in the case of my SC it doesn't seem to do that. I have installed the emulator correctly and it's not working just like yours which makes me think it's SC specific in this case.
Originally Posted by magicpants
God I wish I had a set of chrome TT wheels so bad. They look really good on these cars. Loving the exterior mods!
Thanks so much, the TT wheels are sure very nice. I think for now I won't do much on the exterior mods.
Life has gotten quite busy so spending time on the car has drastically decreased. I'm also finishing a 91 MR2 so priority is on that to get it up and running.
I have a few goals and projects for this car overall but not sure how feasible they are to complete it. Some of those things include:
Rear Mount twin or single turbo setup
Custom Head unit specifically for my liking
Finishing the front and rear aero setup
Make it a track car but retaining dailyness
Custom Climate Control ( I mapped out the pins but still need to figure out how the logic works when clicking buttons)
Bottom Flat Steering wheel
I'm sure there are others but that's what I can think of. The shifter plan has changed but I'm beginning to design a cover from scratch with screens, no idea if that'll work out or not.
Reviving the thread. This is such a great info build thread. I'm in the process of manual swapping my 99 SC300 and currently gathering all the supplies. I have CD009 (06G35), 3.26 rear diff from sc430, autosports engineering adapter kit/shiftter, 86landcruiser 3/4 bore master cylinder, T56 slave, MK4 clutch assembly etc. My only reservation was the electrical/CEL component but coming across your build really helps. I like the idea of the blank ecu wiring in case of messing up. How does the car run after a couple of years?
Reviving the thread. This is such a great info build thread. I'm in the process of manual swapping my 99 SC300 and currently gathering all the supplies. I have CD009 (06G35), 3.26 rear diff from sc430, autosports engineering adapter kit/shiftter, 86landcruiser 3/4 bore master cylinder, T56 slave, MK4 clutch assembly etc. My only reservation was the electrical/CEL component but coming across your build really helps. I like the idea of the blank ecu wiring in case of messing up. How does the car run after a couple of years?
Appreciate it maxcus, the 3.26 is really the best choice when it comes to this swap so it's good you got that going. The car is still kicking it without skipping a beat however with the overall swap I'm not satisfied for a few reasons.
Firstly the XAT kit is machined well BUT the choice of the throwout bearing assembly is very poor. The designer of it and XAT are not very good customer service people and I have a few others who brought different products from them say that too so I am done with them. I have to tear everything down and either modify it to fix problems or go with an entirely different setup. The SPEC clutch has only gotten worse and it absolutely kills some of the joy driving this car. The lightweight flywheel is still a good choice but the having a clutch like that + the combo of the bearing assembly is a match made in hell. My solution is to go to a stock 300zx clutch or exedy, drill holes into the adapter plate so I can install a T56 throwout bearing setup, create hardlines that go to the outside like the Fisch Racing setup.
Things are a bit on hold now since I have picked up three whole new projects, MK3 Supra Turbo, MR2 Turbo and a MK4 Supra. The MR2 is going to be on it's way and then I can focus more on the SC. Everything needs to have an overhaul that is LONG due
Appreciate it maxcus, the 3.26 is really the best choice when it comes to this swap so it's good you got that going. The car is still kicking it without skipping a beat however with the overall swap I'm not satisfied for a few reasons.
Firstly the XAT kit is machined well BUT the choice of the throwout bearing assembly is very poor. The designer of it and XAT are not very good customer service people and I have a few others who brought different products from them say that too so I am done with them. I have to tear everything down and either modify it to fix problems or go with an entirely different setup. The SPEC clutch has only gotten worse and it absolutely kills some of the joy driving this car. The lightweight flywheel is still a good choice but the having a clutch like that + the combo of the bearing assembly is a match made in hell. My solution is to go to a stock 300zx clutch or exedy, drill holes into the adapter plate so I can install a T56 throwout bearing setup, create hardlines that go to the outside like the Fisch Racing setup.
Things are a bit on hold now since I have picked up three whole new projects, MK3 Supra Turbo, MR2 Turbo and a MK4 Supra. The MR2 is going to be on it's way and then I can focus more on the SC. Everything needs to have an overhaul that is LONG due
Hey,
just want to say I appreciate the thoroughness and all the work you've put in.
I've been working on my cd-uz swap- into a merc 190e- for a little while now, and have found XAT to be the tougher route. Hard to find any real info out there and their install notes are lacking to say the least.
Would you be willing to share more about your install and daily experience on the QMI throw out? With mine installed I still have quite a bit of movement (laterally and front and back) it would appear the only thing keeping the throw out reasonably located are the lines running through my bellhousing. Part of my wonders if the machined sleeve over the output shaft in a mil off (35 mm OD on that sleeve, 36 inner diameter for the QMI) also, any chance you remember your air gap set up by way of the spacers? this is my first time doing a swap of this complexity, so I appreciate any help or advice.
thanks!
Hey,
just want to say I appreciate the thoroughness and all the work you've put in.
I've been working on my cd-uz swap- into a merc 190e- for a little while now, and have found XAT to be the tougher route. Hard to find any real info out there and their install notes are lacking to say the least.
Would you be willing to share more about your install and daily experience on the QMI throw out? With mine installed I still have quite a bit of movement (laterally and front and back) it would appear the only thing keeping the throw out reasonably located are the lines running through my bellhousing. Part of my wonders if the machined sleeve over the output shaft in a mil off (35 mm OD on that sleeve, 36 inner diameter for the QMI) also, any chance you remember your air gap set up by way of the spacers? this is my first time doing a swap of this complexity, so I appreciate any help or advice.
thanks!
A UZ 190e sounds pretty good. The documentation from XAT is not that great and the use of the QMI is not that great of a solution either. It's a free floating type throwout bearing assembly so it will never really sit. The idea I guess is that it gets its tension from the sandwiching between the pressure plate fingers and the adapter plate, so lateral movement is expected, I don't remember the air gap I had to set but I followed the instructions by Quartermaster and measured three times. If memory serves me right it was about 4-5 rings. Figuring it out can be a challenge but once you get all the calculations done it will make more sense.
06-07-23, 07:03 AM
