When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took the car out for a longer test drive of a total about 40-50 miles but on the way back there was a massive rainstorm, couldn't see anything, visibility probably around 20 feet at best. The car made it all the way safely and I'm glad that it performed well both on city and highway, the clutch is still a bit hard but I think it's become a lot better than the time I just installed so either it's breaking in or I'm getting used to it or I guess both. I was initially concerned about water getting in the cabin or the hole in the bellhousing since it's not sealed up but so far it's great, no leaks, no loss of pressure or anything unusual.
On the plus side my speedometer is actually working! I was quite surprised by it but it appears that pulse width signal from the ABS is exactly the same as the one that comes from the automatic transmission which means either it was already reading it from there even before the swap or since it was missing a VSS signal it had a backup signal to choose from. Looking at the electrical diagrams it seems like it takes the signal from both.
Here's the shift **** that I custom ordered. As mentioned in my first post, there are a few items that I believe to give you a good driving experience is the pedals, steering wheel and shift ****. This final piece of the swap was not only help me realize the swap has been complete but also that it's now a different vehicle than what it was and deserves to be felt such way. Everything from the shape and design,weight, color and length were all custom. This is what I had in mind and it came out perfectly.
Originally Posted by TG2000
You should be able to mount a tone ring and hall effect sensor to the driveshaft to replace the missing speed sensor from the transmission. Even though it's geared, it generates an electronic signal, which means it likely has a gear-driven reluctor wheel and a hall effect sensor inside. It's a matter of making a tone ring for the driveshaft that matches the quantity of teeth per rotation on the stock sensor.
That seems like unnecessary amount of work with the alternatives there are out there, not to mention the calibration that will require it and testing involved with some reference point. Maybe on a full standalone system I can see it might be helpful.
That seems like unnecessary amount of work with the alternatives there are out there, not to mention the calibration that will require it and testing involved with some reference point. Maybe on a full standalone system I can see it might be helpful.
Well it's definitely unnecessary now that you have the speedo working! This build is fantastic, I've been wanting to see how a manual swap plays out with the VVT-i motor and it's going very well for you.
Reverse Switch
Got the reverse switch to work which was an easy wire, the common ground is pin 4 so if you choose to use to bring up any of the lights you'll need the ground to go to pin 4. The reverse wire input is pin 8.
Originally Posted by RudysSC
Huge congrats man. A clean manual V8 SC is the truest best form these cars can take in my humble opinion!
Agreed! Now it feels like what it was meant to be.
Originally Posted by TG2000
Well it's definitely unnecessary now that you have the speedo working! This build is fantastic, I've been wanting to see how a manual swap plays out with the VVT-i motor and it's going very well for you.
Appreciate it, still need to get some wiring and cleanup done.
Originally Posted by ThomasGS4
Love the update! Is there any chance that we could get a video of the car in action?
I'll try to get a video going this weekend then a quick overview of the car and the drive.
Originally Posted by CLass of 1
I second this! We need a 1/4 mile run too…I’m thinking you might get into the high 13’s with a good launch…?
Nick
That's what I think I'll get too, the gearing ratios are short but don't waste any powerband. Somewhere between 13.6 and 13.9 is my best bet.
Excellent progress!!! It sounds like you're pushing through all the initial post-swap adjustments speedily (just like your SC!)!
Interesting that the speedometer will work with just the front ABS sensor signal. I know that the odometer gets its reading from both the ABS sensor and transmission VSS sensor in all model years but I didn't realize the speedometer would use both as well and thus still work with the ABS sensor signal only. Maybe this is something related to the way the 1998-00 models are wired versus the earlier models?
I'd also love to see a video of your 6-speed 1UZ VVT-i in action!
My instrument cluster is now suddenly not working, I can see the bottom lights such as airbag, brake and other things on the bottom row but everything is off. I'm thinking it has to do with with the ground not being connected on the headunit and it might have caused a short and blew a fuse so will have to check on that.
Here's a short video on the build and drive if anyone is interested.
My instrument cluster is now suddenly not working, I can see the bottom lights such as airbag, brake and other things on the bottom row but everything is off. I'm thinking it has to do with with the ground not being connected on the headunit and it might have caused a short and blew a fuse so will have to check on that.
Cool video man! Happy to see you working through all of the details. I may have asked you this already, but how was it fitting the CD transmission into your tunnel? Did you cut any holes? Bang out panels? Any tunnel mods that will be noticeable from under the car? Would you do anything different?
Cool video man! Happy to see you working through all of the details. I may have asked you this already, but how was it fitting the CD transmission into your tunnel? Did you cut any holes? Bang out panels? Any tunnel mods that will be noticeable from under the car? Would you do anything different?
Thanks man!
Nick
Thanks Nick!
I had to do no modification on my transmission tunnel except for cutting the auto shifter area and even then I didn't have to do that if I installed the shifter after getting the transmission, although I don't know how hard it would be to install the shifter while the transmission is installed but it has been done on a IS300. I'm not sure yet on what I'd do different. Maybe making the holes in my bellhousing for the clutch & bleed lines I'd make them a bit cleaner using a proper drill. Most of the work that was done was planned out in staged so I knew what I had to do ahead of time including the parts I bought and understanding how they might feel as mentioned in detail in my first few posts. The flywheel may be the only thing that I haven't decided, it makes pulling and rev matching extremely fun but going on slopes I have to focus a bit though my opinion on that can change in the future depending on how the clutch breaks in and how I get used to it. So far everything has been exactly the way I wanted it.
I had to do no modification on my transmission tunnel except for cutting the auto shifter area and even then I didn't have to do that if I installed the shifter after getting the transmission, although I don't know how hard it would be to install the shifter while the transmission is installed but it has been done on a IS300. I'm not sure yet on what I'd do different. Maybe making the holes in my bellhousing for the clutch & bleed lines I'd make them a bit cleaner using a proper drill. Most of the work that was done was planned out in staged so I knew what I had to do ahead of time including the parts I bought and understanding how they might feel as mentioned in detail in my first few posts. The flywheel may be the only thing that I haven't decided, it makes pulling and rev matching extremely fun but going on slopes I have to focus a bit though my opinion on that can change in the future depending on how the clutch breaks in and how I get used to it. So far everything has been exactly the way I wanted it.
Wow dude I’m shocked you didn’t have to make any mods to your tunnel. That’s AWESOME! I have heard that banging it out was the minimum you’d have to do, up to and including cutting holes. That’s fantastic news.
Perhaps Craig can confirm for us, but there’s no difference in tunnel from ‘98-‘00 cars to ‘91-‘97 cars, right? Only the manual cars got a different tunnel is my understanding. If that’s all true, then I’m very much looking forward to this install! I was slightly worried about beating the hell out of my very rare car. Heck I’m a fretting a little about rolling the fenders, but I have no choice.
In your opinion would the Fisch Racing Tech adapter (sold also through Serial Nine) be any different when it comes to install? I have been debating this one, cause I really like the factory type look it gives. For those unaware, here it is: https://fischracingtech.com/products...hoC9gYQAvD_BwE
Thank you again for documenting your work. It’s so helpful to the rest of us! Thanks!!!
Wow dude I’m shocked you didn’t have to make any mods to your tunnel. That’s AWESOME! I have heard that banging it out was the minimum you’d have to do, up to and including cutting holes. That’s fantastic news.
Perhaps Craig can confirm for us, but there’s no difference in tunnel from ‘98-‘00 cars to ‘91-‘97 cars, right? Only the manual cars got a different tunnel is my understanding. If that’s all true, then I’m very much looking forward to this install! I was slightly worried about beating the hell out of my very rare car. Heck I’m a fretting a little about rolling the fenders, but I have no choice.
In your opinion would the Fisch Racing Tech adapter (sold also through Serial Nine) be any different when it comes to install? I have been debating this one, cause I really like the factory type look it gives. For those unaware, here it is: https://fischracingtech.com/products...hoC9gYQAvD_BwE
Thank you again for documenting your work. It’s so helpful to the rest of us! Thanks!!!
Nick
Fisch Racing Tech Adapter is probably the best choice to go with if you want do a swap however I did contact them about it and they said that most likely you'll have to make space in the transmission tunnel because their casted bellhousing and the stock CD009 is bigger than our stock auto/manual bellhousings. This goes for other companies too which either use an adapter plate on the engine block or make their own bellhousing like Fisch. Is it worth it? Probably. Considering that specific kit comes with it's own bellhousing that has the clutch and feed lines already installed, comes with a inspection plate and has the Tilton throwout bearing assembly already installed, not to mention you can use a stock 350z/G35 clutch too. It was a bit out of my budget or else I think I'd have went with Fisch, not to say I'm not happy with what I have but installation time would have shortened if I had everything pre-assembled, from what I remember they also have a lightweight flywheel option.
Fisch Racing Tech Adapter is probably the best choice to go with if you want do a swap however I did contact them about it and they said that most likely you'll have to make space in the transmission tunnel because their casted bellhousing and the stock CD009 is bigger than our stock auto/manual bellhousings. This goes for other companies too which either use an adapter plate on the engine block or make their own bellhousing like Fisch. Is it worth it? Probably. Considering that specific kit comes with it's own bellhousing that has the clutch and feed lines already installed, comes with a inspection plate and has the Tilton throwout bearing assembly already installed, not to mention you can use a stock 350z/G35 clutch too. It was a bit out of my budget or else I think I'd have went with Fisch, not to say I'm not happy with what I have but installation time would have shortened if I had everything pre-assembled, from what I remember they also have a lightweight flywheel option.
Right and this is where my confusion lies because to my logic, it shouldn’t be any bigger than our stock bellhousing because it’s an exact fit, right? So, what’s the difference between a plate installed with our bellhousing bolted to it, compared to a bespoke bellhousing made to the exact dimensions of the rear of the engine?
Unless there’s a strange section of the tunnel that juts out right where the adapter plate is located (as the plate is smaller than our bellhousing) which I doubt is the case. So, I’m going to say that if you didn’t have to modify your tunnel, then I don’t think it would have to be done for the Fisch adapter either.
When I do move forward with it, I had considered doing the full assembly service through them, but I believe I still have some connections who can get me the transmission for “cost” and so it probably won’t be worth it for me to go that route, considering the potential savings.
Right and this is where my confusion lies because to my logic, it shouldn’t be any bigger than our stock bellhousing because it’s an exact fit, right? So, what’s the difference between a plate installed with our bellhousing bolted to it, compared to a bespoke bellhousing made to the exact dimensions of the rear of the engine?
Unless there’s a strange section of the tunnel that juts out right where the adapter plate is located (as the plate is smaller than our bellhousing) which I doubt is the case. So, I’m going to say that if you didn’t have to modify your tunnel, then I don’t think it would have to be done for the Fisch adapter either.
When I do move forward with it, I had considered doing the full assembly service through them, but I believe I still have some connections who can get me the transmission for “cost” and so it probably won’t be worth it for me to go that route, considering the potential savings.
Thanks for your input dude!
Nick
Maybe this diagram I made can you explain you a bit more.
The Fisch Racing bellhousing is almost similar dimensions to the stock CD009 dimensions but it's made to fit the engine side. As you can see in red our stock auto bellhousings are much smaller compared to those ones.
The first option is what I have in my current setup.
The third option uses the stock CD009 bellhousing and slave cylinder, this is for those who don't want any adjustment.
Really all methods are good depending on who makes the parts and I can see why people choose #2 or #3, more so if they have a different chassis.
01-10-22, 12:10 PM
