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You've certainly dug yourself quite the hole my friend! However, this is going to be one hell of a car by the time you're through with it...
yeah you sure are right. I’ve built a few sc300’s with 1jz/2jzgte swaps over the years and kicked myself after selling them. So this one will be a forever car so I’m doing it the way I have always dreamed of. Already have another shell lined up to build smarter this one 😂. It’s a bad addition to say the least.
Good for you for making your dream a reality! I always regretted selling my SC400 and tell myself the same thing with my currrent SC. They're so good, and so hard to come by, I can't imagine what I'd replace it with at this point.
yeah you sure are right. I’ve built a few sc300’s with 1jz/2jzgte swaps over the years and kicked myself after selling them. So this one will be a forever car so I’m doing it the way I have always dreamed of. Already have another shell lined up to build smarter this one 😂. It’s a bad addition to say the least.
This is my mentality with my baltic, this will be my forever car that I enjoy and continue to restore before I ultimately make it a garage queen that I pull out for the JDM car shows Haha.
Good for you for making your dream a reality! I always regretted selling my SC400 and tell myself the same thing with my currrent SC. They're so good, and so hard to come by, I can't imagine what I'd replace it with at this point.
yeah I hear you. I sold a 95 factory manual I built with a 1jz swap to a kid local near me right after I built it. Had a wedding to pay for so it had to go. Regret it as it was a factory 5 speed car. Had a few rust spots near the amp but I could have fixed it with a new quarter panel. Also sold a 95 with mint black interior that I really kick myself for selling. I still keep in touch with the guy I sold it to so that’s good at least.
This is my mentality with my baltic, this will be my forever car that I enjoy and continue to restore before I ultimately make it a garage queen that I pull out for the JDM car shows Haha.
yeah, the amount of money wrapped up in parts is no joke that’s for sure.
Had a hour or so in the garage today so dropped the rear hubs and parking brake cables and got the brakes off. Should be able to drop the sub frame tomorrow then off to powder coating.
So took two hours today and got the bushings removed from the rear diff of the subframe and the front of the subframe. I tried to do what battle version recommends but couldn’t for the rear. Ended up taking a pry bar and a ball joint tool and using a hammer, from the inside of the bushing towards the rear of the car. Took about a hour in a half for those two rear bushings and then 15 min for the front two. The fronts you can just live them up with pb blaster and use two pry bars. The old bushings have a slit in the middle so they come out easily.
Nice! I really would like to drop the sub frames on my car and have all the bushings done front/rear some day. I don't think I will do it until I have a lift though! What bushings did you end up purchasing? Battleversion solids?
Nice! I really would like to drop the sub frames on my car and have all the bushings done front/rear some day. I don't think I will do it until I have a lift though! What bushings did you end up purchasing? Battleversion solids?
@joewitafro yes, I went will all battle version solid bushings. It actually not bad to drop on the car if you take the diff and everything apart before dropped the bare subframe. I used the board in the picture above with a jack in the middle. Came down easily and no curse words were used
Are you also doing all new arms/ball joints? Just looked and to do the front/rear i'm looking at 3k for uppers/lowers. I feel like I shouldn't replace all the bushings until I do those at the same time.
Are you also doing all new arms/ball joints? Just looked and to do the front/rear i'm looking at 3k for uppers/lowers. I feel like I shouldn't replace all the bushings until I do those at the same time.
@joewitafro yeah I’m doing all new arms front and back and all new bushings. I actually just ordered my manual grannas steering rack and the ultimate anti roll sway bar as well. It’s definitely not cheap to build , that’s for damn sure lol. Now I trying to figure out what is my best bet to do with lower control arms. Grannas Makes a kit but you have to run dual eyelet coilovers and I just waited and paid a ton for my custom built stance signature coilovers. 😒
I was looking at the KFD rear LCA; looks like it has an OEM style ball joint, poly bushings already installed and adjustable end for $568/pair. And yeah you got that right, not cheap at all.
I was looking at the KFD rear LCA; looks like it has an OEM style ball joint, poly bushings already installed and adjustable end for $568/pair. And yeah you got that right, not cheap at all.
the FDF stuff looks a lot nicer IMO. Megan racing also has some budget friendly stuff
06-27-22, 10:32 AM
