See? Non-neutral colors aren't so bad.......the world doesn't revolve around white/black/gray/silver. I really miss some of the Teal shades that were offered in the 90s. I can remember when Honda dealers had big markups on new Accords, and even bigger mark-ups on the Teal ones LOL.

No more Federal tax credit on hybrids?....or was that the $7500 you mentioned?

I agree that weight can make a difference, but usually only if the suspension is not firmer to contract it. Not having sampled a Pacific with 20s, I'll take you at your word that the 20s on your last Pacifica were tolerable, but most of the vehicles that I HAVE sampled hav, to my tastes, rode like s***. In fact, for me, that was a dealbreaker on the Buick Cascada convertible. I liked it, and considered getting one, but its standard 20" rubber simply pounded one's kidneys too much.....easily the worst-riding Buick product I had ever sampled. It felt more like a Mitsubishi Evo LOL.

The steering probably feels more disconnected because the tall 60-series sidewalls absorb more of the steering-forces. That's just a simple law of physics. The flip-side, of course, is better bump-absorption as well.

That has been one of the Buick Quiet-Tuning features for some years now.

 

The Cascada has 4" of sidewall, while the Pacifica on 20s has 5". It's also a significantly longer wheelbase, and likely softer sprung to account for the weight. Pretty easy to see how it might still ride well. Our Q7 rides amazingly on 21s, and doesn't improve much at all when we put the 19" winters on. Handling takes a dramatic hit, though.

 

Nothing wrong with non neutral colors, a lot of it depends on the car. I wouldn't get a teal S Class.

Same $7,500. When you lease the manufacturer gets the credit and they pass it on to you usually as a $7,500 rebate. That worked best for me because you have income limits for the tax credit when you file them and I don't quality.

Weight makes a HUGE difference. Have you ever driven a car unloaded and the same car fully loaded? It rides smoother fully loaded.

The wheel size isn't what matters, is the amount of sidewall height available. The Pacifica had a lot of sidewall despite the size of the wheels, as do most SUVs etc, so the 20s don't make much difference.

Probably, and the wheel/tire combo is probably lighter. Its a really big difference though.

Most high end cars have had laminated glass for a long time its just surprising to see it in the Pacifica.

I also find that things like the door latch mechanisms feel and sound better in this van

 

the student isn't paying attention. that's not accurate either (or just out of date). 40%-80% should be 10-15 mins at a supercharger. 20%-80% should be half an hour or less.

steve's not driving a full BEV - the pacifica is a plugin hybrid with a 16kwh battery, not a 74kwh battery like most teslas.

haha, great line from planes, trains, and automobiles.

 

Here you go... professor bit. It's called JuiceBox home charger. I wasn't talking about superchargers. I know how fast that goes and it's also not recommended routinely.

 

Lets put it this way, even with a 50% SoC, it still takes 7-9 hours to fully charge the Pacifica at home on a normal 120v outlet. Charging at home is largely linear, it doesn't throttle down after 80%, its much closer to 100, public chargers do that to apportion energy more equitably and to avoid damaging batteries.

 

You should have at least one or two 220V outlets around the house.....electric dryers and ovens usually run on 220-240V. A 220V (Level-2) outlet will probably reduce the full-charging time from 8 hours down to about 3 or so. If it's an indoor outlet, of course, you might need a heavy-duty extension cord to run it into the garage or outside to the vehicle.

 

The only one is the dryer outlet and that’s on a different floor. I’ll have one put in the garage.

My wife told me today she had no choice but to drive it today in gas mode and she was not pleased lol

 

Oh that's funny as hell. Lol

She's only been running in EV mode a week and she misses it.

Different subject, if I was planning to charge at a relative's house and knowing the wiring is old, I can probably assume the outlet is old too.

This is where things can get tricky IMO.

Many electrical fires happen that never popped the breakers first. All it takes is heat from a resistance drop at poor connectors and contacts whether in the outlet, junction boxes, and breaker box, etc.

Honestly, I'd ask the relative to hook up a clamp meter in ac amps scale and measure what the current pull on the circuit and not exceed that, dryer or etc- unless running new outlet straight from outside panel.

That way you will know you can never be blamed for starting a fire.

Reason why is because there is no way to know the condition of the wiring until it is loaded past what is normally running.

Another words, if the dryer is pulling 15 actual amps according to the meter readings, I'd charge at 15 amps and no more, only because of unknown condition of old wiring and the risk, just ideas.

 

The more I think about this, the more it makes me laugh--it's just that ridiculous. Even if there were such an outlet near the back door of the house (and not on the second floor), I can just picture Steve or his wife pulling out the stove or the dryer, unplugging it, plugging in an extension cord, then dragging a garden-hose-sized cord out the back door and across the deck so it can be plugged into the charger in the garage. They'd leave the back door open all night, and then reverse the process every single morning, coil the cord back up, store it somewhere (? these things are HUGE), plug the appliance back in and push it back into its spot. Figure 20 minutes of work every night AND every morning just to charge the car.

That would definitely make pretty much anyone think that EVs/PHEVs are not worth the trouble. Never mind the fact that such cables weigh 75 lbs and cost ! Or right about what it'll cost to pull an independent 240V circuit in the garage where it can be hardwired to the charger. The literal definition of a no-brainer.

 

Come on, geko..... I didn't say this was a permanent solution....but it could work on a temporary basis, since Steve himself said he is getting a 220V outlet in the garage. And hard to believe that an extension cord costs $500.

 

Click the link in my post, I wasn't joking. high current 220V is serious business, and the longer you make the cable, the heaver it needs to be. $500 is about average for a 100' cord. If you don't like the one I chose (first result on Amazon), they have alternatives for $470, $480, $480, $485, and $490, plus one oddball at $420 with a single not-so-glowing review. , but still costs $90. These are nothing like what you'd use for a light or a circular saw.

 

These cords are very expensive yes. The 120v plug works fine until we get that done.

As for the outlet being old, as long as it’s pulling less than the breaker it shouldn’t be an issue. The breakers are old but they are quality square D breakers. The house was renovated and improved the panel is just the same old panel.

 

high current is no joke. My friend tells me his tesla cable gets warm during charging.

 

Yeah some have dryer on second floor, very common in some states. A guy down my street has an extension cord out all the to his driveway to charge his. Maybe he does not want to pay to put one inside his garage. I heard they charge you somewhere near 500 to put one there for you. Is it still cheap charging now?